has the mileage increase paid for the system and then some? I am debating whether it is truely worth it for the mileage. I am gonna run bio diesel this summer so it wont matter at that point cause bio is wicked cheap.
mpg nozzle is set so its spraying pretty much all the time the truck is moving. mix is anywhere from straight water (towing above freezing temps) to 30 percent meth in the winter, just depends what I'm doing.
2-3 mpg while MT eh. Well hells bells Lotsof..I am just gonna have to see that meth/H20system of yours. That my friend is very kewl and would be worth the investment in my case as well. Same mileage increase in summer with straight H20..??
I think when i was working the numbers I figured 40-50,000 miles was the 'break even' point for a guy looking for mpg & $ gains. Of course it all depends on cost of diesel/meth/h20 and the gains in mpg with your driving style.
my truck sees almost no city or stop & go driving. It hits the highway and stays there all day. so its spraying almost the entire time the truck is running.
lotsofmiles-
Great feedback for those that are concerned about adding W/M injection to their trucks and long term benefits. Now how about upgrading for the next 100k miles to a system that can get you 3-5mpg increase?
2-3 mpg while MT eh. Well hells bells Lotsof..I am just gonna have to see that meth/H20system of yours. That my friend is very kewl and would be worth the investment in my case as well. Same mileage increase in summer with straight H20..??
lotsofmiles-
Great feedback for those that are concerned about adding W/M injection to their trucks and long term benefits. Now how about upgrading for the next 100k miles to a system that can get you 3-5mpg increase?
Likely DIS-S3..??
Well, similar to your driving, I too hit the rd and am on it 3-4 hours at a time. Only time I city drive is on the weekends..and not much at that. This sounds good and I like the idea of cleaning your intake and steamin the motor.!
next yr though..too many other things a comin first: New tires - re-upholster my front seats and likely add some seat heaters.
Should be good for a few mpg more then your existing systems[/quote]
dont remember where I was now stopped for the night somewhere along 39/or90/or94 north of you. I remember seeing some cheese store
For the most part you can just swap out the controller. Does your setup have an older shurflo pump? You will get finer atomization with our nozzles compared to the oil burner nozzles you are currently using.
Darn there are some good cheese shops up that way, could have had you pick some up for me
I like mine so far. At what pressure do you have your coming in at and maxing out at? Mine is 4 psi and 10 psi. It is insane how much it helps egt's towing for me.
I like mine so far. At what pressure do you have your coming in at and maxing out at? Mine is 4 psi and 10 psi. It is insane how much it helps egt's towing for me.
I run those settings for empty cruising most of the time. Sometimes I lower the start to 2.
If your system isnt that old you will most likely fry it using those setting tho. Read your instruction manual carefully. Snows answer to this overheat/frying controllers is to tell customers to set the system to start injecting at 4-5 psi ABOVE cruising boost. I just drove 400 miles and didnt hit 4-5 psi above cruising boost levels.
Keep an eye on your controller for any use over 10-15 minutes at those injection levels. If the top of the unit, left side, kinda above the 1 button starts getting hot, SHUT IT OFF, before you do more damage
Lots of miles, you have had a pressure gauge hooked up right? Do you notice any pressure drop after the system shuts off? I just got a new check valve, and it still drops. Have an unused solenoid, and was thinking about using it.
Yes, pressure gauge is t'eed in coming off the mpg nozzle. I have no check valves, just the 2 solenoids. Here is the pic, the line heads off to the right(drivers side) its the black line
When the system shuts off it is a slow- steady drop in psi, until it hits 0. after the psi drops to 0 the gauge will read boost if I get on it hard enough to move the needle on the 200 psi gauge
Lots of miles, you have had a pressure gauge hooked up right? Do you notice any pressure drop after the system shuts off? I just got a new check valve, and it still drops. Have an unused solenoid, and was thinking about using it.
I'm thinking its normal the way I have it plumbed. The solenoid shuts the line off, but the psi gauge is after the solenoid. Inbetween the solenoid (shut) and the open hole of the nozzle.
I'm thinking out loud here, but if the psi gauge were teed in on the other side of the solenoid it might maintain pressure as long as the pressure in the line doesn't go backwards thru the pump.
It would be real easy to replumb it to test
Its not very long of time for it to go from 200psi down to 0
I guess that makes sense, I thought you would have had it on the other side of the solenoids though. Oh well. I'll try to get the solenoid out and mounted soon. Don't need it for pre-turbo when it's 33F outside and I don't even get post radiator coolant up to 160F
Water/meth injection has quite a few advantages; more than just several more mpg's. All of the engines that I have ever torn down that had water/meth injection were very clean when compared to those engines that did not have the secondary injection system. Granted they were all gassers, but still the same concept. Also, nearly everytime I have worked with meth injection it has actually prolonged engine life by reducing heat fatigue and stress on the internals.
Lotsofmiles, just curious if you have had any problems with your pump? It sounds like you are doing exactly what I'm thinking of doing - running the system almost constantly while under boost/load for the MPG increase.
Several kit companies I have spoke to recommended NOT running their pumps constantly like this - they seem to lean towards only having the system come on based on high EGT or high boost levels - meaning, only occasionally.
Is the pump you have a "bypass" model that allows the pump to run constantly, or one that cycles on/off as demand requires?
Lotsofmiles, just curious if you have had any problems with your pump? It sounds like you are doing exactly what I'm thinking of doing - running the system almost constantly while under boost/load for the MPG increase.
Several kit companies I have spoke to recommended NOT running their pumps constantly like this - they seem to lean towards only having the system come on based on high EGT or high boost levels - meaning, only occasionally.
Is the pump you have a "bypass" model that allows the pump to run constantly, or one that cycles on/off as demand requires?
Are you the guy I met at Sarnia Walmart, I was parked with a trailer and came out of the store and a 6.5 pulling a trailer was parked next to me changing his oil filter. It was sometime last year....
anyway, no problems with the pump, but
The old mpg/max with the 150psi pump worked perfect. Could spray all day with no issues. I thought and was told the 220 pump was a good upgrade. Bought the 220 pump and instantly fried 2 (and almost a 3rd) controller.
Added a solid state mosfet relay, ditched the controller covers, and added a cooling fan to the controller and now I can spray all day long with the 220 pump
Iirc the 220 is a bypass, but dont really remember. Did so much reading on so many different pumps I really dont remember
Good luck finding the old controllers lots of miles. I might be interested in one if you find two more. Do you happen to keep track of how much fluid you run through the system?
I know I did 3 or 4 trips in a row to Quebec. Towing and spraying heavy, in about 1000 miles I was using 30+ gallons of h20/meth
less on the return trip empty
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