Not to long ago I asked TD if he wanted some "DIY" threads to help everyone out, guess what his answer was?
Also a recent thread came up, about making high idle "kits"
I'm willing to make them if people want to buy them, just PM me
I have a few "on order" and I'll take a pic of both an OBD1 kit and OBD2 kit once I have em both made up.
With that being said I thought to myself, how will they know how to install this?
Kennedy's instructions are good, but I know that people like pictures, so this is a how to install high idle switches..... or switch on your OBD2 trucks. (What you'll need can be found here
if makin your own)
Before unplugging things and pulling things apart, you might want to disconnect your batterys.
I also want to say that I have an OBD2 truck, and it will differ some from an OBD1 truck's installation. if there is anyone around my area with an OBD1, and wants help installin a high idle switch, I'll be more then happy to hook you up with what you need, and do a free install so we can do an OBD1 dedicated high idle with pics of an OBD1 setup. PM me if interested.
Ok, lets start off with the first picture, to make removing the dash easier, I turned the key to on, and pulled the shifter down to first.
2nd pic, if you got a cup holder, you gotta move it.
As you can see in the 3rd pic, I just grab the top of my dash and gently yet firmly pulled it towards myself.
As seen in the 4th and 5th pics, you just pull the dash out enough so you can get your fingers in to remove the cargo lamp switch, as well as the headlight switch/ interior light dimmer (Not shown).
5th pic also shows you how the clip locks in, you gotta press down pretty firmly to get it, try wiggling as you pull.
Now take note in pic 6 of how many silver clips there are and where, this is what holds your dash in, and will make removal and reinstallation easier.
Pic 7, holes made are 1/2 using the switches I used, I picked the area of the dash on the drivers side of the steering wheel, careful using that area though, I got my switches tucked in their so nicely,
(Pic 8) with the housing side by side, I thought it was gonna interfear with the location pin and mount, but that's why careful planing and measuring more then once is done (Told ya I was a custom fabricator
Picture 8 also shows the rubber "dust flap" that I used to route my wires behind the dash where the steering wheel is to keep them hidden.
Picture 9 10 and 11 show you how I ran my lines, and how I hooked the lines under the edge of the gauge cluster to keep everything behind the dash.
In pic 10 that switch you see is for my bumper mounted driving lights.
Pic 12 shows where I ran the line down behind the cup holder and airvent, into the glovebox opening.
In picture 13 there's a plastic "limiting" strap that you have to pull toward yourself while you push back on the glovebox (as if to close it) and then when it slides forward, pull it away from the glovebox.
Pic 14 on the other side of the glove box there is a stopper, just push it on it, then the glove box will come out once you lower it to almost horizontal, then gently pull towards yourself, and it'll come out.
Pic 15 is where the wire comes from behind the cupholder and airvent into the glovebox opening.
Pic 16 shows the PCM in it's stock location,
Pic 17 shows a harness that you should pull out of your way for more room, then grab the PCM and pull back on it to pull it off it's tray,
then angle it as shown in pic 18
and pull it out like shown in pic 19.
The middle connector, is the one we are after as shown in picture 20, to remove the locks you need a little flat screw driver or in my case...a pen (Gf handed it to me... it worked... why complain?)
and you want to remove the one without the big clip on it (as seen in pic 21, big clip is left alone)
The row with the lock with the big clip is row A and the other one with the flat lock is row B, (I'm takin a guess that it all looks the same for OBD1 and OBD2, if not, I'm sorry) Now here is were it gets different for the 2 OBD systems.
OBD2 you can supply 1 or 2 switched grounds to terminals B7 (1170rpm) and/or B8(1360rpm) or you can ground both and get (1600rpms)
OBD1 you supply one switched 12v power source to pin A6(1075rpm)
Going by picture 21, 1 is the far right and 12 is far left.
Pic 22 is a blury pic of the pin connector... Tried to get it... Oh well, Sorry.
Pic 23 is both pins installed, I colour coded my wires so I knew what wire went to what switch (Black is 1070rpm red is 1360rpm)
Pic 24 is with the lock put back in place
Pic 25 is of the wire routed to the PCM put back in it's stock location, to do this, there is a locator pin on the PCM and 2 clips, the pin goes into a hole on the PCM tray, and the clips slide UNDER the tray holdin the PCM in place.
These are the switch to ground wires, I dropped them down beside the steering wheel then I had to undo the screw to the mounting bracket, and replaced the screwafter moving the grounding tabs over the hole as seen in pictures 26 and 27 and that pretty much takes care of that.
Picture 28 shows the switches that I use and will use in my kits.
Now you can turn the key, flick the switch(es) and enjoy your new high idle mod
98 3/4ton 4x4 RC LB F vin L65 HO.
DSG gear set, gurdle and oil cooler, ported and half assed polished heads, HE351VE
turbo, 3" downpipe, 2.25" xover, 3.5" DNA muffler and a 4" weed burner exhaust, NRK High idle switch kit and K47 relocated intake & AEM filter, Royal Purple in the trans, engine, and rear diff, 4 cobalt gauges, boost, pyro, trans temp and drive pressure. -6 CAT fuel system, Carter fuel pump. Sitting high on 35" Duratracs.
Bought it with a pooched engine and rebuilt it myself! 211,000 kms on the truck, 110,000km on the rebuild, still chuggin and still screamin.
If you're not drivin it hard, you don't deserve to drive it!
Member Lucky #7 of the TLFTN Club... Loud and proud
Want to make an OBD2 high idle switch set up? Click here
Ignore the subname, I know nothing! Haha.