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Old 05-16-2007, 10:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
lcgarage
Self Ignition
 
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Central MA.
Posts: 83

No Start, No WTS light….It IS the grounds!

...and details on my Ignition Switch replacement and removal of aftermarket security system

It’s been weeks not able to start truck. I’ve been here reading, and on the weekends applying what I’ve learned from this forum to my 97’ K3500.
Cleaning/ Replacing Grounds fixed the problem!

Repair Details

97’ GMC K3500 With “NO START”


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From from diagnostic table
1. Does the engine Turn over? YES
1a. Does the engine start? NO
1b. Do you have a Wait To Start Light & duration lit? NO

-There were no blown fuses.
-The ECT temp sensors measured good at 3.6k on a 65degF day. (Reference table lists 3520ohms at 68F)

Now I know the PCM is NOT getting power (or gnd). A second indicator was the Code reader, which was not able to establish contact with PCM.

CLEAN /REPLACE GROUNDS
-The battery connections were in bad shape



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Grounds were next. The aux gnd to eng had to be replaced


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Aux Gnd After repair/ cleaning


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Rear Engine GND Before cleaning


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And After (but before tightening). Can be done with out removing trans check/fill tube.


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and finally engine to frame ground was cleaned on the right passenger side rear of engine. I took the right rubber fender shield off to get at /find it.



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That really would have done it.....but because I had changed the ignition switch first, the aftermarket security system needed to be reconnected OR removed.

REMOVE IGINITION KILL (from previous owner aftermarket security system)
-The security system was removed and easy to see how it works by removing glove compartment door and see the break in the 2 ign (pink) wire off of the PCM.

Security Keypad



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Ign Kill reconnected (C-clamp on button to keep light off)



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-BEFORE cleaning gnds I decided to change ignition switch. At the time I figured IGN had to be the problem. I found changing ign switch EASIER than it was to find, clean, and repair all the grounds! BUT it didn’t fix the problem (actually caused another problem with security system) it cost $125 but I'm glad to have a NEW one in there given the contact design and significance this switch plays in circuit. I also knew that some day my 2 year old was going to push the right combination of buttons on the keypad to activate security, and I’m not sure how to enter the code (even though previous. owner has code written on visor).

REPLACING IGNITION SWITCH
New ignition switch



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Removing bottom cover torx screws from steering wheel



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Tilt lever pulls right out



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Ignition switch shown with bottom cover removed



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Sliding Allen Wrench Under Top Cover To Pop Key cylinder out



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Key cylinder out to remove top cover



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process shown with top cover removed for detail

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-I didn’t have and external torx socket, but was able to improvise by using a ¼” drive sockets for the screw holding top cover
Figure 5/32” deep socket on external torx



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Using 5/32” socket on external torx to remove top cover



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and a #6 cap head screw in vise grips to remove the ignition switch screws (longer ~2” would have worked even better, to give more turning room)


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Bought a external torx set a autoparts store, but still had to use #6 screw since the set didn’t go down that small in size.

Many thanks to the Diesel Place’s 6.5L moderators, knkreb, Turbine Doc, and gmctd. As well as the good advice from many others.
-lcgarage

__________________
97' GMC K3500 Ext Cab 6.5L TD Auto 4:10 DRW
80kmi No Mods, 9' Diamond snow plow

Last edited by gmctd; 07-04-2007 at 08:01 PM. Reason: cleanup 4 July
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