ok guys, ive been doing some research, and ive found that the stock fan clutch dont lock up untill the engine is really cookin hot. well with this turbo and crap goin on on my engine the coolant temps get warm and the fan clutch isnt locked. i dont want the engine temps to get to 230*F before the stupid thing locks up and cools it off. so my question is how do you modify the fan clutch so it locks up around 200-210*F? also other than the lube specialist kit, what would you guys recomend for a aux oil cooler for the engine? because more than once ive had to stop my fun because the oil temps hit 220*F.
4320Diesel
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Modifying Fan clutch
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go and look on sls's thread '' my biggest fan and the snake, someone posted a clutch fan mod on there, think it was d.camelleri, he said to make a different slot for the tension on the spring, so it would engage later or sooner.....
ok, shoot. i searched for a bit and didnt bring up anything and i remembered when he posted that but i couldnt remember if he posted how to do it.
i just did. i posted in there asking what the measurements were, since he gave a vauge description of what to do.
Just went out to the garage, hit the spring with the propane torch, and it rotated the shaft counterclockwise. So if you made a notch just to the left of the current notch that would make the clutch engage earlier. You could probably make a notch every 3/16" and have an adjustable clutch.
Acesnights also suggested "tweaking" the spring to get the same effect.
Acesnights also suggested "tweaking" the spring to get the same effect.
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shyco::Insane::confuzeld
im thinkin hacksaw blade. i might be doing this and cleaning my rad today since it rained about 2 fricking inches overnight.
Ya, I think it rained all night here too.
Should be a good day for working on these old engines. I think I am going to install my all rebuilt engine with my 6.5 injection pump on it. I think this makes more sense instead of changing both head gaskets on the old girl and not knowing how long it is going to run after spending the time and money on the gaskets and bolts.
Should be a good day for working on these old engines. I think I am going to install my all rebuilt engine with my 6.5 injection pump on it. I think this makes more sense instead of changing both head gaskets on the old girl and not knowing how long it is going to run after spending the time and money on the gaskets and bolts.
i got brakes to fix on a damn graintruck first. AGAIN! stupid farting things. then ill get to the 6.2
ha tin snips... angle grinder with a cut off wheel or a small cut off wheel on the dremel tool
I have done them in the past with a cut off wheel, just be careful. There is only room for one more notch. Another trick you can do is to move the spring outside of the holder in the proper direction, this will be like an extreme adjustment, but it will show you if the clutch works ok. With the spring outside the bracket, it should lock up very early which is good for cooling and bad for hp drain. Also, anyone that mentioned electric fans, don't waste your money. When I swapped a 6.2 into a 1970 blazer around 25 years ago, I tried a dual electric fan set-up that a buddy loaned me. They ran all the time and couldn't come close to keeping the engine cool when working it. Good oem clutch fan is still the best, flex fan is second, but the flex fans flatten out at higher rpms and don't pull enough air when towing heavy. I also had good luck with heavy duty truck style nylon fans that were custom ordered and used without a clutch. Again, great cooling, big hp drain.
where should the notch be placed at? right in the middle of that piece that the spring sits against? or closer to the spring side?
oh brent for the oil cooler wernt you going to use the one AC component? or if your looking for a cheap cooler maybe a heater core? hell idk just throwing some ideas out there lol
that was sls's idea. i dont have an A/C condencer. i wonder if a heater core would flow enough. i doubt it since the tubes are so small. i might try and see if i can find a old A/C condencer like sls did. because that seems like a good idea.
yeah, should be cheap...but the holes are fairly large on the inlet and outlet of heater cores but the ones out of our trucks may be a little small
i meant the tubes in the core. theyre flat and fiarly small. cold oil wont flow through that worth anything id assume. but a round tube condencer like that would flow like a mother.
Heater core has too much mass, too "bricky", "boxy", designed to get hot and stay hot. The center of the core would never cool. Needs to be thin, with lots of fins for heat dissipation.
Why not try a tranny cooler out of a Caravan. Tons around and from what I remember the can be mounted in front of rad witha zip tie or wire or something. I don't know if you could possibly find a caravan tho at a wrecker.
Ohh yeah it's a DODGE and it's junk. Should of just drove them straight from the facrory to the wrecker.
Ohh yeah it's a DODGE and it's junk. Should of just drove them straight from the facrory to the wrecker.
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