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How To - Glow Plug Override

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91K views 62 replies 31 participants last post by  1967KaiserM715  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Guide for Glow Plug Over Ride
While Maintaining Computerized Glow Plugs
​

This is a guide to help you install a switch for you to have the ability of extending the glow time. This is helpful when you live in colder climates or if you have AC Delco 60g glow plugs. I only suggest installing this if you have self regulating glow plugs. This is a fairly simple modification and if you set everything up yourself you will save quite a bit of money. Most kits for this will cost you over $100, but if you follow this guide you can do it for under $40.

Parts:
  • Ford Starter Solenoid [$12 - Advance Auto - 5470277 (S58Z) ]
  • #6 or 8 Gauge Wire and Connectors [$14 - Tractor Supply Co. (6 gauge, 2x 24" wires) ]
  • Momentary Push Button Switch [$5 - Tractor Supply Co.]
  • Switch Wiring and Connectors [In garage]
  • Add a Wire Fuse Tap [$7 - Advance Auto - 5080114 (BP/HHH) ]
Total Price for Me: $38
Estimated Time: 1hr 30 mins
Degree of Difficulty: Easy

Step 1:
Disconnect battery grounds and then take off the nuts that hold the power lugs on the glow plug relay.

Step 2:
Mount the solenoid in your place of interest (I mounted mine where the Baro sensor was located and relocated my baro sensor).
Hook up switch wire to the "S" lug and feed wire through firewall, make sure you have enough wire to go to switch. Below is where I mounted mine:

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Step 3a:
Remove your dash bezel. You can do this by pulling out your cup holder a little bit, dropping your steering column all the way down, and for automatics putting shifter into "1". After that pull the corners and along the top on the bezel. Only thing holding it on are the clips.
After the bezel is loose, pull it away from the dash enough so you can unplug the headlight switch and cargo lamp, and 4x4 switches.
Note: You do not need to remove your bezel if you place switch on one of the two extra switch panels, just pry those out and you can feed wire through.

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Step 3b:
Drill where you are going to mount your switch and mount it (you have one shot). The next thing you will need to do is run the power to the switch. Using the fuse tap, tap into a fuse that is only has power when key is on and run that wire to the switch (I used Cruise fuse).
After the switch is all hooked up (solenoid and power) go ahead and hook up everything behind the bezel (headlight,cargo, 4x4 switches) and mount the bezel back on the dash.

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Step 4:
After everything is done inside the cab, go back and connect the the Solenoid to the Glow Plug Relay. Do this by using the #6 gauge wire and connectors for the lugs. It shouldn't matter how it is hooked up as long as you have one lead on solenoid and one lead on relay, and the other wire on the opposite side of the relay and solenoid. See pictures:
Note: Do not over tighten the nuts on glow relay. New glow relay is $42.

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Step 5:
Make sure all the connections on the relay and solenoids are tight and no bare wires are touching that shouldn't be. Hook the batteries back up and test. Turn on key, wait for the glow light to go off and push the new glow button. If working properly the glows will work (hear the click) and the WTS light on dash will light up (97+ WTS light will not light up, the light is computer controlled). If this happens then you are done :).

Note: On 97+ trucks you may want to install an extra indicator light to make sure your glows are working.

____
Hope You Enjoy!
~Mike
 

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#4 · (Edited)
I mounted it so I didn't have to remove any insulation, that is why it is mounted where it is... Not sure if it is considered upside down or not, if so doesn't matter because it still works ;).
 
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#5 ·
A little off subject but I noticed your PMD is mounted on the intake. I know I heard other saying not to mount it there. I got mine mounted there temporarily till I decide to snip and crimp my own cable or spend $30 some for a made one.
Do you have any problems with yours mounted there? When I had my engine running for the first time the other day I was doing some temp checks and my heatsink was around 120 degrees so I checked the one on the pump and it was 120 also. This was while idling.
 
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#8 · (Edited)
DieselPro said:
Looks like you got the solenoid mounted right. Nice write up and pics.

Now if we could just get that ground wire off the FSD cooler and put it back where it belongs.
Hmmmm? Things we notice about other peoples trucks.
Click to expand...
Thanks :)


Why change something thats not broke? lol ;). The way my heatsink is mounted and the way my batteries are grounded, I would say my fsd ground is good. Plus its been like that (as stated earlier) for at least 3 years. That is how it was when I first bought the truck.
 
#11 ·
Yes, this could be used if your glow plug relay is nonoperational.

Some people use just the solenoid controlled by the button and don't bother replacing the glow plug relay. I prefer having the computer controlled relay because I don't have to worry about pushing the button and if someone needs to drive my truck they can. Plus the relay only costs a little over $40 :rolleyes:. I just need a little extra glow time during the winter :D.
 
#12 ·
A+ Writeup, and the button looks great, factory like!
 
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#13 ·
Thank you for the informative write up. What gage wire from the fuse panel to the switch and what size fuse? Will this work on a 1993 6.5, if so how long can I hold the button in w/o ruining the glowplugs? Will my glowplug light go on while I am holding in the button?
Thanks again,
Heirotto
 
#14 · (Edited)
- On the one for my blazer i used a 10 amp fuse on the switch side. Wire gauge is probably 16 gauge for the low side. I used 16-14 gauge for the low side and 8 gauge for the high side.

- Only do this mod if you have 60G or Bosch Duraterm glow plugs. Any others can't take it and you'll burn them out.

- Should only need 10 seconds of glow time for the engine to start.

- Yes this will work on a 93 6.5 and yes your glowplug light will come on when pushing the button.
 
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#15 ·
Good job with the show & tell.

One question though...why did you remove the whole dash bazel? On my truck I just had to pry off the small panel to access it. Could be because yours is a '95?
 
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#16 ·
Because I was replacing my high idle switch which is to the left of my steering column. I was originally going to place my manual glow button beside it, but decided not too.
 
#21 ·
The glow plug relay itself is hooked up just like it was before, you are just adding a pair of "jumpers" to a solenoid actuated by a switch. Not sure what you are talking about though, because everything on the glow system on my truck is how it was before, except i added those two wires.

smtt126 said:
hey guys kinda off topic but when i start my engine and it is idleing my glow plugs erratically kick on for a second or two is this normal??
Click to expand...
Yes, after the engine has started it is normal to see the glow light come on. It is called "after glow". You will probably see it more as it gets colder.
 
#19 ·
hey guys kinda off topic but when i start my engine and it is idleing my glow plugs erratically kick on for a second or two is this normal??
 
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A
#23 ·
Quick question.

On the OE Glow Plug Controller (GPC), there are three thin gauge wires in a weatherproof connector.
If power is applied to one of these wire (I think its the yellow, middle one) the GPC is activated.
Is there a reason one should not splice a wire into this and run it to the in cab switch?
 
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#24 · (Edited)
The yellow wire is the wire the PCM uses to command the glow controller on. I'm not sure if this is a 5-volt or a 12-volt signal, most likely 5-volt though... If someone would decided to do it that way... I would put a diode before the spliced connection (PCM side) so you don't back-feed voltage to the PCM and fry it.

The first post here is easy, simple, and guaranteed to work.

In the diagram below
Pink - 12V power
Yellow - Signal (possibly 5V?)
Black - Ground
 

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#25 ·
Sorry, I wasn't trying to knock your fix.
Was just curious.

I found this, its for the 94+ system, but calls for 12v.

Think I will pull the plug and measure v between yellow and ground.
 
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#26 · (Edited)
You weren't knockin ;)

There are always more then one way to do something. Giving options for different ways to different people are always good.

Do what you said, check the voltage at the yellow wire. If 12v you could probably splice in a 12v wire thats controlled by a switch into the yellow wire. But like I said... I would put a diode in the yellow wire before the spliced connection you make. That would guarantee no power would go back to the PCM.
 
#32 ·
Awsome thread! Thank you green machine for another great write up.
 
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#33 ·
When I jump the to large terminals on the controller my WTS light does not come on on my 90 Burb. Also as far as splicing into the controller harness that doesn't work because when you put power to that yellow wire it will only do the same thing as turning the key on and off , the controller will still cycle on it's own. Mine is cycling way too fast. Still trying to figure this out.
 
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#35 ·
yours should be wired like mine is. It's the single gray control module isn't it? When i jump the two large terminals with a ford starter relay my glowplug light comes on in my blazer. It comes on in my pickup too when i jumped the two large terminals with a screwdriver once when testing something.
 
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#34 ·
On the 6.2s I'm not sure how the glow light is wired in. Although I would have thought it be wired in similar to how the 96 or earlier 6.5s...
 
#36 ·
I didn't when I tried it today which is what has me confused. Then again nothing surprises me with "Christine"
 
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#37 ·
Wonder if it's something to do with the relay being mounted on the firewall? That's not the stock location. Wonder if the controller has to be grounded, but then the glowplug light shouldn't work at all. Weird.....
 
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#38 ·
I know this is very old thread, but I found it from searching so go figure!

What I want to figure out here is; why do you need to use the stock glow plug relay at all?

I don't care about the dash light, so could I use use the ford solenoid to directly power the glow plug controller?

I don't have my truck yet, so I can't see it in person. I apologize if this is a really stupid question. :)
 
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#39 ·
ejlarson said:
I know this is very old thread, but I found it from searching so go figure!

What I want to figure out here is; why do you need to use the stock glow plug relay at all?

I don't care about the dash light, so could I use use the ford solenoid to directly power the glow plug controller?...
Click to expand...
If you want to go to a completely manual GP relay system using only the Ford solenoid you certainly can. ~FH
 
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