What follows is how we replaced the injectors on my 03 LB7.
I AM NOT A GM TECH, please follow these at your own risk. I am a DIY'er, sharing our experience, with this task.
The parts we used;
97729095* Injector Kit, Dir Fuel (Incls:Injector,Gasket,Seal) 8
97188896 Gasket, Valve Rocker Arm Cover
(Reusable Gasket) As Req'd
97228933 Gasket, F/Injr Fuel Return Pipe 8
97600925 Gasket, F/Injr Fuel Return Pipe 2
88901148 (CN) Sealant As Req’d
97300793 Seal, T-Stat (2) required
Job specific, tools used;
The first one is a "heel bar" that we used to actually pull the injectors loose from the bores.
Next the 5mm allen ball socket (with universal) and the ball tip allen wrenches;
Then comes the fuel line release tools. The first one I already had, from doing fuel pump replacement on my gassers.
That one worked on the return line, but was not large enough for the feed line, for that I had to by this set, just to get the 1/2" one;
Next, how we protected the paint on the front of the truck. Three shipping blankets from harbor frieght, were zip tied around he nose of the truck. I think they were six bucks each.
OK, now on to the actual job.
1. Disconnect both batteries.
2. Drain coolant. No pics of those two steps, but a (5) gallon pail will slide under the pas front of truck, then loosen the rad. drain plug, until the coolant begins to escape. Then just be patient, if you rush it, like I did, there will be a mees on the floor.
3. Remove air intake and box. Disconnect the MAF sensor, loosen the clamp on the turbo inlet, then lift the assembly up on the hose end, while sliding the box toward the driver side of the truck.
4. Remove intercooler pipe from intake down to intercooler and the heater core, hard line;
5. Remove the FICM;
6. Then the FICM bracket;
7. Remove the fuel filter assembly;
8. Remove the 8mm nut, and glow plug wire;
9. This shold give a clear look at the upper valve cover, in this pic, the clips are not on, sorry;
here is a shot of the clips, on the driver side, the bolts are 8mm heads;
10. Remove those 8mm screws, then remove the 19mm fittings that hold the high pressure lines to the common rail, and the injectors themselves;
once agian, I missed getting a good pic of this step, but here one from the drivers side;
There is allot of talk about corrosion on the high pressure lines, we did not have an issue with that;
11. Next, remove the 5mm screws that hold the upper cover. The upper cover is "glued" on with the GM sealant. To remove the cover, there are two "pry points" cast into the bottom of the cover. Use those points to lift the cover, then slide something under it, and finish gently lifting it up. The following pics were taken on the workbench to give a better idea of what they look like.
12. Once you remove the upper cover, you will see the wiring harnesses, that run the injectors. There are (2) 10mm bolts that hold the harnesses to the head, and each injector has (2) 7mm nuts that hold the wires to the injector. Those 7mm nuts are "captured in the wire ends, they stay with the wires.
13. With the wires out of the way, you can remove a bunch more 5mm screws, to get the lower cover off;
The lower cover has alittle bit different retention hardware. There are spacers that keep the gasket for the lower cover from being smashed;
14. With the lower cover off, the next thing to remove is the fuel return line;
15. This is where the seals for the return lines come in, clean the line up, remove the old seals, and replace them with the new ones. Then set aside, until reassembly;
16. Remove the 8mm cap (allen head) screw that hold the injector clamp, then slide a pry bar under the clamp and "pop" the injector up out of the bore. Here again is an area where I did not take good pics, I will post what I have, and hopefully it will make some sense;
This is the pass side ones, out on the bench;
17. Clean the bores, install the new squirters in the bores, and reverse the steps listed above.
18. The driver side is the same, only with more "stuff" in the way. First remove the inner cooler tube;
19. Then remove the upper rad hose, notice the small rubber hose that runs to the turbo, remove that, the (4) 12mm screws that hold the T-stat housing on, and the (2) 12mm bolts, that hold the hard line on the left upper valve cover.
One of those bolts is hidden by the large bale connector;
20. Remove the (3) 12mm bolts that hold the large bale bracket to the driver side upper cover, here again, no good pics.
21. Use the fuel line wrenches to release the fuel lines. First remove the spring clips, then the lines themselves;
22. The above pic shows the Glow Plug Module. We completely removed that from the truck, next time, I will disconnect the wires, to the point where it can just be moved out of the way;
23. At this point, you should be able to remove the high pressure lines (clips first);
24. From this point, the driver side is just like the passenger side. Just without as much room to work. Don't forget about the glow plug wire;
25. One thing to take note of upon reassembly, is to seal the top of the high pressure line fitting. On the injector end. This keeps dirt and debris from building up in that fitting, and dumping inside of the head, next time you break it loose;
Thats about it, obviously reverse the above steps to reassemble. Prime the fuel system, fill the radiator, remove the bleed screw to get some air out;
Reconnect the batteries,andfire it up.
One thing I did not mention was the injector cups, we were lucky, and none of mine came out. But I made sure my dealer had some in stock, and I have Loctite in hand.
Hope this helps, anyone who has done it, and wants to add to this thread, please feel free.
I AM NOT A GM TECH, please follow these at your own risk. I am a DIY'er, sharing our experience, with this task.
The parts we used;
97729095* Injector Kit, Dir Fuel (Incls:Injector,Gasket,Seal) 8
97188896 Gasket, Valve Rocker Arm Cover
(Reusable Gasket) As Req'd
97228933 Gasket, F/Injr Fuel Return Pipe 8
97600925 Gasket, F/Injr Fuel Return Pipe 2
88901148 (CN) Sealant As Req’d
97300793 Seal, T-Stat (2) required
Job specific, tools used;
The first one is a "heel bar" that we used to actually pull the injectors loose from the bores.
Next the 5mm allen ball socket (with universal) and the ball tip allen wrenches;
Then comes the fuel line release tools. The first one I already had, from doing fuel pump replacement on my gassers.
That one worked on the return line, but was not large enough for the feed line, for that I had to by this set, just to get the 1/2" one;
Next, how we protected the paint on the front of the truck. Three shipping blankets from harbor frieght, were zip tied around he nose of the truck. I think they were six bucks each.
OK, now on to the actual job.
1. Disconnect both batteries.
2. Drain coolant. No pics of those two steps, but a (5) gallon pail will slide under the pas front of truck, then loosen the rad. drain plug, until the coolant begins to escape. Then just be patient, if you rush it, like I did, there will be a mees on the floor.
3. Remove air intake and box. Disconnect the MAF sensor, loosen the clamp on the turbo inlet, then lift the assembly up on the hose end, while sliding the box toward the driver side of the truck.
4. Remove intercooler pipe from intake down to intercooler and the heater core, hard line;
5. Remove the FICM;
6. Then the FICM bracket;
7. Remove the fuel filter assembly;
8. Remove the 8mm nut, and glow plug wire;
9. This shold give a clear look at the upper valve cover, in this pic, the clips are not on, sorry;
here is a shot of the clips, on the driver side, the bolts are 8mm heads;
10. Remove those 8mm screws, then remove the 19mm fittings that hold the high pressure lines to the common rail, and the injectors themselves;
once agian, I missed getting a good pic of this step, but here one from the drivers side;
There is allot of talk about corrosion on the high pressure lines, we did not have an issue with that;
11. Next, remove the 5mm screws that hold the upper cover. The upper cover is "glued" on with the GM sealant. To remove the cover, there are two "pry points" cast into the bottom of the cover. Use those points to lift the cover, then slide something under it, and finish gently lifting it up. The following pics were taken on the workbench to give a better idea of what they look like.
12. Once you remove the upper cover, you will see the wiring harnesses, that run the injectors. There are (2) 10mm bolts that hold the harnesses to the head, and each injector has (2) 7mm nuts that hold the wires to the injector. Those 7mm nuts are "captured in the wire ends, they stay with the wires.
13. With the wires out of the way, you can remove a bunch more 5mm screws, to get the lower cover off;
The lower cover has alittle bit different retention hardware. There are spacers that keep the gasket for the lower cover from being smashed;
14. With the lower cover off, the next thing to remove is the fuel return line;
15. This is where the seals for the return lines come in, clean the line up, remove the old seals, and replace them with the new ones. Then set aside, until reassembly;
16. Remove the 8mm cap (allen head) screw that hold the injector clamp, then slide a pry bar under the clamp and "pop" the injector up out of the bore. Here again is an area where I did not take good pics, I will post what I have, and hopefully it will make some sense;
This is the pass side ones, out on the bench;
17. Clean the bores, install the new squirters in the bores, and reverse the steps listed above.
18. The driver side is the same, only with more "stuff" in the way. First remove the inner cooler tube;
19. Then remove the upper rad hose, notice the small rubber hose that runs to the turbo, remove that, the (4) 12mm screws that hold the T-stat housing on, and the (2) 12mm bolts, that hold the hard line on the left upper valve cover.
One of those bolts is hidden by the large bale connector;
20. Remove the (3) 12mm bolts that hold the large bale bracket to the driver side upper cover, here again, no good pics.
21. Use the fuel line wrenches to release the fuel lines. First remove the spring clips, then the lines themselves;
22. The above pic shows the Glow Plug Module. We completely removed that from the truck, next time, I will disconnect the wires, to the point where it can just be moved out of the way;
23. At this point, you should be able to remove the high pressure lines (clips first);
24. From this point, the driver side is just like the passenger side. Just without as much room to work. Don't forget about the glow plug wire;
25. One thing to take note of upon reassembly, is to seal the top of the high pressure line fitting. On the injector end. This keeps dirt and debris from building up in that fitting, and dumping inside of the head, next time you break it loose;
Thats about it, obviously reverse the above steps to reassemble. Prime the fuel system, fill the radiator, remove the bleed screw to get some air out;
Reconnect the batteries,andfire it up.
One thing I did not mention was the injector cups, we were lucky, and none of mine came out. But I made sure my dealer had some in stock, and I have Loctite in hand.
Hope this helps, anyone who has done it, and wants to add to this thread, please feel free.