Integrated brake controller w/ elec over hydraulic trailer brakes

clydeg · 10-05-2008, 02:04 PM

Has anyone had any luck getting the integrated trailer brake controller to work with electric over hydraulic trailer brakes? I read somewhere a while back about adding an electric brake magnet to the trailer brake system but now that I have a new truck, I can't find that article.

filip · 10-06-2008, 09:23 PM

I have...

First, make sure the 12v feed is connected under hood.. (not done so a factory) this is the 12v always on feed in the trailer connection (this runs the hydraulic pump).

Next, get a couple of magnets and wire them in the trailer. cut the blue wire (0-10V electric brake wire) and splice it in. Connect other side to white wire. The blue wire will tell the pump how much pressure to develop...

That is it...

Now, the IBC will get a ping back from the magnets and turn on... got 7K towing like this and no problems!

Ridgerunner436 · 11-30-2008, 11:46 PM

Thank for the help, filip. I bought two brake magnets at TSC and wired them together in parallel. I made a pig tail with a male seven pin connector on one end and a female seven pin connector on the other end. I connected the magnets in the center of the pig tail with one side of the magnets connected to the blue wire and the other side of the magnets to the white wire. This way I can use this pig tail with any trailer. I just plug one end of the pig tail into my truck and the other end into my trailer. Works great. The only downside is that if my trailer wiring ever becomes disconnected, the DIC will still see the pig tail and not indicate a problem. Looks like GM would offer an adapter to address this problem. Thanks again. This website is the greatest.

filip · 12-01-2008, 10:16 PM

Nicely done!

1991gooseneck · 12-02-2008, 01:11 AM

I have a 2007 Silverado with ITBC and have electric/hydraulic trailer and it has a magnet on it but it won't work. It puts out 6.7 volts at the controller pin in the female plug with no load hooked to it. took to dealer to check it they said it won't work on the ITBC and gave me the Document ID#2018491. Are they right or wrong.

DURAtotheMAX · 12-02-2008, 01:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by filip

I have...

First, make sure the 12v feed is connected under hood.. (not done so a factory) this is the 12v always on feed in the trailer connection (this runs the hydraulic pump).

Next, get a couple of magnets and wire them in the trailer. cut the blue wire (0-10V electric brake wire) and splice it in. Connect other side to white wire. The blue wire will tell the pump how much pressure to develop...

That is it...

Now, the IBC will get a ping back from the magnets and turn on... got 7K towing like this and no problems!

nice!! clever idea.

ben

trailerpro · 12-02-2008, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1991gooseneck

I have a 2007 Silverado with ITBC and have electric/hydraulic trailer and it has a magnet on it but it won't work. It puts out 6.7 volts at the controller pin in the female plug with no load hooked to it. took to dealer to check it they said it won't work on the ITBC and gave me the Document ID#2018491. Are they right or wrong.

It might take 2 magnets to make the ITBC recognize the trailer. Kind of guessing but I know some aftermarket brake controls will not turn on with only one magnet hooked up.

filip · 12-02-2008, 03:47 PM

I tried with one and it worked and did not work.. I have 2 now and never a problem.. Make sure the 12V is connected in under the hood.. it is not connected from the factory... I am sure you mean 2007.5 since that was the first to get ITBC...

Remember with Elect/Hydr. the 12V from trailer powers the pump, the blue wire tells the pump the pressure to do, white is common. The trick is to fool the ITBC by adding magnets so it know to turn on (by seeing the magnets,simple explanation)...

In electric brakes, the voltage on the blue wire is the "pull" on the magnets on the brake drum.. You don' t need the 12V constant in the electric brake scenario...

1991gooseneck · 12-04-2008, 08:47 AM

I tried the 2 magnets yesterday and it don't say connected when pluged in but the master cylinder pumps real slow all the time it is pluged in. I check the ground it checks good and checked both plugs on truck the check the same. I don't think the control is putting out enough volts? Should it put out 10 volts at the blue wire when it is max out? I hooked to my flatbed that has 2 8K axles on it and it works great will slid wheel on 10.

Ridgerunner436 · 12-05-2008, 05:07 PM

If the truck doesn't say "trailer connected" as soon as you plug in the trailer, then you probably do not have the magnets wired in correctly. They must be connected to the blue wire on one end and the white wire on the other end. I wired my two magnets in parallel with each other. I would not recommend wiring them in series. Another possiblility would be a blown fuse. If you are getting voltage on the blue wire then the fuse is okay. My blue wire pulses like a turn signal when the trailer is not connected. I assume this is the computer searching for a trailer connection. The "trailer connected" and "trailer disconnected" alarms are only related to the blue wire being connected to the white wire through magnets. These alarms do not appear to be related to the lighting circuits in any way. I have not checked the blue wire voltages with the magnets connected but I do know that the blue wire voltage is proportional to the brake pedal pressure. So do not expect full voltage unless you are pressing the pedal really hard and possilby with the engine running (may be proportional to brake fluid pressure rather than brake pedal pressure). If you want to see full voltage on the blue wire, I would recommend setting the gain to 10.0 and squeezing the lever on the ITBC.

10-05-2008, 02:04 PM	#1
clydeg Diesel Enthusiast Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 18 iTrader: (0)	Integrated brake controller w/ elec over hydraulic trailer brakes Has anyone had any luck getting the integrated trailer brake controller to work with electric over hydraulic trailer brakes? I read somewhere a while back about adding an electric brake magnet to the trailer brake system but now that I have a new truck, I can't find that article. __________________ 2008 GMC CC/SB 4x4 SLT metallic blue all stock
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10-06-2008, 09:23 PM	#2
filip Diesel Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Orlando, Florida Posts: 61 iTrader: (0)	I have... First, make sure the 12v feed is connected under hood.. (not done so a factory) this is the 12v always on feed in the trailer connection (this runs the hydraulic pump). Next, get a couple of magnets and wire them in the trailer. cut the blue wire (0-10V electric brake wire) and splice it in. Connect other side to white wire. The blue wire will tell the pump how much pressure to develop... That is it... Now, the IBC will get a ping back from the magnets and turn on... got 7K towing like this and no problems! __________________ Filip Apopka, Florida 2007.5 Chevy 2500HD Duramax LMM / Allison 2WD Crew Cab SB LTZ - Silver Birch Michelin 265.75.16 LTX M/S Diablo Predator - Tow Mode Air Lift Air bags w/ smart air - auto level system 48 Gallon custom auxiliary fuel tank with gravity feed Cargo Management system w/ big tool box 2008 Glendale Titanium 32E37SA 37' w/ Superglide 18k hitch 2007 22' Pace American Pursuit trailer Xtra Tall 8' w/ Hensley Arrow Hitch Amsoil in Engine and Transmission
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11-30-2008, 11:46 PM	#3
Ridgerunner436 Diesel Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 212 iTrader: (0)	Thank for the help, filip. I bought two brake magnets at TSC and wired them together in parallel. I made a pig tail with a male seven pin connector on one end and a female seven pin connector on the other end. I connected the magnets in the center of the pig tail with one side of the magnets connected to the blue wire and the other side of the magnets to the white wire. This way I can use this pig tail with any trailer. I just plug one end of the pig tail into my truck and the other end into my trailer. Works great. The only downside is that if my trailer wiring ever becomes disconnected, the DIC will still see the pig tail and not indicate a problem. Looks like GM would offer an adapter to address this problem. Thanks again. This website is the greatest.
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12-01-2008, 10:16 PM	#4
filip Diesel Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Orlando, Florida Posts: 61 iTrader: (0)	Nicely done! __________________ Filip Apopka, Florida 2007.5 Chevy 2500HD Duramax LMM / Allison 2WD Crew Cab SB LTZ - Silver Birch Michelin 265.75.16 LTX M/S Diablo Predator - Tow Mode Air Lift Air bags w/ smart air - auto level system 48 Gallon custom auxiliary fuel tank with gravity feed Cargo Management system w/ big tool box 2008 Glendale Titanium 32E37SA 37' w/ Superglide 18k hitch 2007 22' Pace American Pursuit trailer Xtra Tall 8' w/ Hensley Arrow Hitch Amsoil in Engine and Transmission
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12-02-2008, 01:11 AM	#5
1991gooseneck Diesel Enthusiast Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 5 iTrader: (0)	I have a 2007 Silverado with ITBC and have electric/hydraulic trailer and it has a magnet on it but it won't work. It puts out 6.7 volts at the controller pin in the female plug with no load hooked to it. took to dealer to check it they said it won't work on the ITBC and gave me the Document ID#2018491. Are they right or wrong.
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12-02-2008, 03:47 PM	#8
filip Diesel Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Orlando, Florida Posts: 61 iTrader: (0)	I tried with one and it worked and did not work.. I have 2 now and never a problem.. Make sure the 12V is connected in under the hood.. it is not connected from the factory... I am sure you mean 2007.5 since that was the first to get ITBC... Remember with Elect/Hydr. the 12V from trailer powers the pump, the blue wire tells the pump the pressure to do, white is common. The trick is to fool the ITBC by adding magnets so it know to turn on (by seeing the magnets,simple explanation)... In electric brakes, the voltage on the blue wire is the "pull" on the magnets on the brake drum.. You don' t need the 12V constant in the electric brake scenario... __________________ Filip Apopka, Florida 2007.5 Chevy 2500HD Duramax LMM / Allison 2WD Crew Cab SB LTZ - Silver Birch Michelin 265.75.16 LTX M/S Diablo Predator - Tow Mode Air Lift Air bags w/ smart air - auto level system 48 Gallon custom auxiliary fuel tank with gravity feed Cargo Management system w/ big tool box 2008 Glendale Titanium 32E37SA 37' w/ Superglide 18k hitch 2007 22' Pace American Pursuit trailer Xtra Tall 8' w/ Hensley Arrow Hitch Amsoil in Engine and Transmission
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12-04-2008, 08:47 AM	#9
1991gooseneck Diesel Enthusiast Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 5 iTrader: (0)	I tried the 2 magnets yesterday and it don't say connected when pluged in but the master cylinder pumps real slow all the time it is pluged in. I check the ground it checks good and checked both plugs on truck the check the same. I don't think the control is putting out enough volts? Should it put out 10 volts at the blue wire when it is max out? I hooked to my flatbed that has 2 8K axles on it and it works great will slid wheel on 10. Last edited by 1991gooseneck : 12-04-2008 at 09:03 AM.
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12-05-2008, 05:07 PM	#10
Ridgerunner436 Diesel Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 212 iTrader: (0)	If the truck doesn't say "trailer connected" as soon as you plug in the trailer, then you probably do not have the magnets wired in correctly. They must be connected to the blue wire on one end and the white wire on the other end. I wired my two magnets in parallel with each other. I would not recommend wiring them in series. Another possiblility would be a blown fuse. If you are getting voltage on the blue wire then the fuse is okay. My blue wire pulses like a turn signal when the trailer is not connected. I assume this is the computer searching for a trailer connection. The "trailer connected" and "trailer disconnected" alarms are only related to the blue wire being connected to the white wire through magnets. These alarms do not appear to be related to the lighting circuits in any way. I have not checked the blue wire voltages with the magnets connected but I do know that the blue wire voltage is proportional to the brake pedal pressure. So do not expect full voltage unless you are pressing the pedal really hard and possilby with the engine running (may be proportional to brake fluid pressure rather than brake pedal pressure). If you want to see full voltage on the blue wire, I would recommend setting the gain to 10.0 and squeezing the lever on the ITBC.
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