Rail dust

tws_andrew · 06-30-2004, 10:19 AM

I have a new white LLY with only 1200 miles and I notices some pin head sized rust spots all over the hood which appear to be rail dust deposits. Dealer is offering to have their bodyshop acid wash and buff the whole truck. I really only trust myself with a buffer on my cars but I wondered if this is the best approach. If I did it I would clay, acid wash and hand polish. Opinions needed. Thanks

SteveNorCal · 06-30-2004, 10:25 AM

Have them use clay! I't the best way, as you mentioned.

03GMC2500HD · 06-30-2004, 10:29 AM

Just use the fine grit clay bar on it and hand polish from there and you will be fine. I agree i don't trust people to buff my stuff either. Clay bars are so much easier and do less damage vs. buffing. Rail dust is a perfect example of what a clay bar is for!

Dura_Mike · 06-30-2004, 10:32 AM

The most important part of the process is to put on a good coat of wax or sealer after you remove the rail dust...

Bronco · 06-30-2004, 07:30 PM

Well I am bone tired, but my truck looks good! Just finished the clay bar/wax procedure. No more rail dust/industrial fall out.

Let me back up a few. 2 weeks ago I took my truck to the dealer. They did the acid wash free of charge. They told me they would wax the truck as well but they would need the truck for the entire day.

I picked the truck up at 5PM and the first thing they told me was I needed to wax my truck. They told me the washing took the entire day and tired there guy out. Looked over the truck and it was better but still had quite a bit of rail dust imbedded in the paint.

So here I was with a dirty waxless truck! Went to the local Advanced Auto and bought Mothers clay bar kit(14.95) and a tub of Mothers Paste wax.

So today I washed my truck with a soft mit and liquid dish soap. Before the truck had even dried I started the clay bar process. I used the supplied spray lube/cleaner and the existing water that was on the truck from rinsing. The bar works great. you just flatten it out a little and rub the paint. Not hard. The imbedded specks come right off. A few required more pressure and extra lube/cleaner. Also the process leaves a noticeable film of dirt on the paint. So I rinsed as soon as I finished a section. It took about 3 hours to due the entire truck including camper shell and roof of cab.

After the truck dried I applied a coat of Mothers paste wax. Let the wax dry and buffed it off with 3 large white cotton house towels. The white paint is now white again and free of specks. The swirls and other junk is gone as well. It was a long day but the truck looks good.

Clay bar is the way to go. A pre-acid wash is helpful but not the cure all. Plus you are at the mercy of the dealer.

If I could do it all again I would probally skip the dealer and go straight to the clay bar. Be prepared to wash the truck ,clay the truck and wax the truck all in the same day. Long day but worth it.

JimWilson · 06-30-2004, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tws_andrew

Dealer is offering to have their bodyshop acid wash and buff the whole truck.

What on earth is an acid wash? I've never heard of it, but from it's name alone I don't think I'd want it done to my truck.

06-30-2004, 10:19 AM	#1
tws_andrew Diesel Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Posts: 65 iTrader: (0)	I have a new white LLY with only 1200 miles and I notices some pin head sized rust spots all over the hood which appear to be rail dust deposits. Dealer is offering to have their bodyshop acid wash and buff the whole truck. I really only trust myself with a buffer on my cars but I wondered if this is the best approach. If I did it I would clay, acid wash and hand polish. Opinions needed. Thanks
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06-30-2004, 10:25 AM	#2
SteveNorCal Diesel Specialist Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Upper Nor Cal Posts: 936 iTrader: (0)	Have them use clay! I't the best way, as you mentioned. __________________ 2004.5 LLY Silverado LT D/A 4x4 CC/SB in Summit White Edge CTS w/Back-up Cam, Bilsteins, SS Bleed Screw, Fumoto Valve, Leer Cap, SS Cloud Riders, Toyo 265 AT's, MBRP 4" System, OEM Bowtie Mud Guards, High Idle Mod by MaxPower, Cabin Air Filter Mod by TheBac My other diesel is a John Deere 4400 12spd 4x4 05' Cougar 243RKS TT with Prodigy
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06-30-2004, 10:29 AM	#3
03GMC2500HD Diesel Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: St. Louis Area Posts: 352 iTrader: (0)	Just use the fine grit clay bar on it and hand polish from there and you will be fine. I agree i don't trust people to buff my stuff either. Clay bars are so much easier and do less damage vs. buffing. Rail dust is a perfect example of what a clay bar is for! __________________ 2003 GMC 2500HD SLT Crew Cab 16x8 Weld Velocity 8 285/75/16 Yokahama Geolander AT+ Front raised 2" using the "green keys" Go Rhino Chrome wheel to wheel steps Carriage Works Billet grill Billet Antenna Wait4me custom tuned PCM Escalade door handles K&N FIPK 03 Chevy Tail Lights pics of my truck
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06-30-2004, 10:32 AM	#4
Dura_Mike Diesel Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Sandy, Utah Posts: 222 iTrader: (0)	The most important part of the process is to put on a good coat of wax or sealer after you remove the rail dust... __________________ Mike '04 GMC Sierra 2500HD D/A Summit White EC SB 4WD, G80 Locker, SLT, No Cat/EGR, Racor pre-OEM Filter, Bed Rug, Westin oval side steps. '03 Honda Rancher ES, '03 Polaris TrailBoss 330... looking for a toy hauler...
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06-30-2004, 07:30 PM	#5
Bronco Diesel Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Colorado Posts: 1,797 iTrader: (0)	Well I am bone tired, but my truck looks good! Just finished the clay bar/wax procedure. No more rail dust/industrial fall out. Let me back up a few. 2 weeks ago I took my truck to the dealer. They did the acid wash free of charge. They told me they would wax the truck as well but they would need the truck for the entire day. I picked the truck up at 5PM and the first thing they told me was I needed to wax my truck. They told me the washing took the entire day and tired there guy out. Looked over the truck and it was better but still had quite a bit of rail dust imbedded in the paint. So here I was with a dirty waxless truck! Went to the local Advanced Auto and bought Mothers clay bar kit(14.95) and a tub of Mothers Paste wax. So today I washed my truck with a soft mit and liquid dish soap. Before the truck had even dried I started the clay bar process. I used the supplied spray lube/cleaner and the existing water that was on the truck from rinsing. The bar works great. you just flatten it out a little and rub the paint. Not hard. The imbedded specks come right off. A few required more pressure and extra lube/cleaner. Also the process leaves a noticeable film of dirt on the paint. So I rinsed as soon as I finished a section. It took about 3 hours to due the entire truck including camper shell and roof of cab. After the truck dried I applied a coat of Mothers paste wax. Let the wax dry and buffed it off with 3 large white cotton house towels. The white paint is now white again and free of specks. The swirls and other junk is gone as well. It was a long day but the truck looks good. Clay bar is the way to go. A pre-acid wash is helpful but not the cure all. Plus you are at the mercy of the dealer. If I could do it all again I would probally skip the dealer and go straight to the clay bar. Be prepared to wash the truck ,clay the truck and wax the truck all in the same day. Long day but worth it.
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