Hi all. I'm hoping someone is out there that can help me. I have a 2005 chevy silverado 3500 6.6 and am having major issues. I haul cars for a living in my 48 foot gooseneck enclosed trailer. My truck has 219,000 miles on it. I bought it with about 100,00 miles on it last august. For the past few months my truck has done what i call a herky jerk. It acted like someone was flipping a switch cutting the fuel off. It didn't do it on a daily basis and I never lost power. No one could tell me what it was and it never threw any codes. The other night I was going into Rockville, MD and my oil pressure dropped and I developed a ticking. I pulled over and checked the oil...it was low so I added some to it. Drove it the next day (still ticking) and never lost oil pressure or power. Still no codes. I was on I-80 pulling a slight hill and i noticed that it started to lose power and I saw a cloud of white smoke come out of the tail pipe. I immediately pulled over. I figured it was an injector but not sure. I wanted to get off the main highway so I started the truck back up (ran really rough) and put it into gear. The truck went into limp mode (about 20 mph) didn't move very far and then died. It will turn over but won't fire. It sounds like I have lost compression but just not sure. I replaced the Fuel Regulator and still the same. If someone could please help, I would greatly appreciate it. I have been stranded for 4 days and I am completely stumped.
Thanks in advance

I recently bought a toy hauler:D:D, a 28ft tandem axle bumper pull weighs roughly 12k #s.... and I'm having some power issues. I first pulled the toy hauler from northern AZ to Phx on hwy 87. It has tons of tight corners into steep long hills. The speed limit is 65. The trip I picked up the toy hauler the truck was running amazing. I was pulling 70 up all the hills and that's saying something cuz those hills are long and steep and never end. I don't think I could have gone any faster but that was before my efi live, exhaust, egr delete, and it is/was lifted with 37s.:)

Now when I tow this toy hauler on the same road-- I'm disappointed. The truck goes as slow as 52mph on the same hills I was romping up 3 months ago. The truck is an 02 so I know It doesn't have torque converter lockup... But I don't think that's it. Also the temps got HOT, both tranny and engine, like 240+ish for both. 3rd gear high rpms on the downhills took care of it with the fan but if any of those hills were any longer I would have most likely overheated.:confused:

I know the injectors are on the outs but the balance rates aren't all that bad yet. My fuel gauge has been inaccurate lately for no reason. Driving home my fuel light came on and one mile later my truck was out of fuel. Does that mean my fuel pump is bad? How much can bad but functioning injectors be effecting my power. Or is there other things I need to start researching like the FPR, cp3 pump ect. Hopefully there are members with similar experiences that can help.

I shouldn't be nervous to tow I want to be confident in my Duramax!!:D

2nd time throwing light. Code reads P2563 and P003A. Advanced Auto says turbo boost sensor. Recently installed cat delete and complete 5" Diamond Eye exhaust, could this be causing the engine light? Thanks for any help that anyone can be. Dave.

Last week my drivers side turn signal stopped working. It blinks inside the cab on the dash (a little faster blink than normal) but the front and rear no blink. My running lights are ok just no left turn signal. I checked all the fuses and none were blown. I replaced both amber bulbs and still nothing...

Then today I noticed that my drivers side brake light doesn't work.
When I turn on my flashers, only the rear passenger side blinks.
I replaced both tail lights and still nothing. Again, red rear running lights work, just no drivers side brake light. I checked the drivers side fuses inside the cab as well as under the hood fuses. All were ok...

I think the brake light went out at the same time and I just noticed it later... I'm trying to find the relay? I hear the clicking in the fuse box under the hood and also under the dash? Anyone have a suggestion? Does the fuse box under he dash, above your left foot have anything to do with the lights on the truck?

These are the stock OEM front and rear lights. A month ago I installed some Focal speakers in the doors and that's as far as I've gone ever touching any of the trucks wiring... I bought this truck with 20,000 miles on it and never had any type issue like this before.

no codes, the ses was stuck on and would only code 12 non stop. i looked around and seen i smashed the engine speed sensor...i doctored it up and it turned out the ses. no codes still though at this point.

this is my spare trans which had a bit over 60 k on it and worked good when i pulled it from a 2500 van with dying 350..


strange issue i cant nail down, though i think it could be the sprag or second band.



manual low, no slip, let off throttle and shift to second it will shift and hold.

if i just shift and dont lift the accelerator it will flare and bang into gear and sometimes shutter violently as well.

3rd and 4th seem to work properly.


if i start out cold in d or od it hold 1st ok till it shifts to second then it slips/flares and chatters bad. once warmed up sometimes it seems to be in second on start after a complete stop but feels like 1st usually. not something i am familiar with.

if i drive it manually its fine.

this leads me to believe the intermediate sprag is fragged somehow.

seems the overrun clutch could be picking up the slack when manually shifting but it also slips starting out in 3 after i come to a complete stop..

manually shifting brings full engine braking as well in 1 and 2 so if i am understanding the unit correctly that means the front band along with the rear band is holding correctly as well? i am sure the front band is not used in drive or overdrive selector ranges anyway.

reverse is perfect, along with the fluid looking good so far. i have not dropped the pan yet to see if i have any sprag clicking around or something.



i can shut my pcm off on the fly, when i do that it reverts normally to second gear like expected, and it dont slip at all.



its almost like the valve body or a solo is leaking. i thought the sprag is the only thing that made sense till i shut the pcm off and second dont miss a beat:rolleyes:


i feel like gorilla is in the room, but cant see him.

Well yesterday blew a u-joint on the illinois tollway. Thought I blew a tire first but got to the side and near a toll booth area so traffic was slow there for those paying tolls. Got just a bit farther and the drive shaft fell out. New then what it was. Set parking brake to see the drive shaft hanging on the ground and the the mid shaft section on the road side behind me. Got out the socket set and pulled the rest of the drivetrain out and pick up the rest and up in the bed. Put it in 4wd and got to my sisters running in front wheel drive. Once there i see the output yoke is pretty dinged up. midshaft spline is banged good and looks bent a bit. carrier bearing trashed as well.

Now for those that replace drive shafts what have you used?
Just gonna replace both shafts, carrier bearing and all u-joints. Also most likely need to replace the output yoke. Looking for brands or places to buy parts from.

Thanks for every ones help.
Brian

Hi Guys,

I've been looking into getting a larger capacity fuel tank now that I'm pulling a 5'er and I'm considering a larger mid-ship replacement tank instead of an in bed tank.

My understanding is that with either solution (in-bed or mid-ship), the computer has trouble when the fuel level falls off so much slower, and it can show some inconsistent values on the fuel gauge.

Is there a calibration or fix yet to allow you to run a larger tank and still have the fuel gauge work? Is it something the dealer would have to perform?

Thanks,
-Garrett

Installed 5" exhaust, I think itd look a lot better with a tip on it to clean it up but just wondering if the 6" outlet would look too goofy? Maybe if it was black it wouldnt be as noticeable?
Just looking for opinions

Was thinking of going with the MBRP T5075 Chrome tip or T5074 that is black.

My 2011 3500 just turned 45,000 miles, and I decided to add a tuner. I did a lot of on-line research, and decided to go with an Edge Evolution CTS (85200). I installed it and immediately took a 700 mile run over to Jacksonville and back. I have thus far only run it with the economy tune, and was somewhat impressed with the results. Normally running unloaded I get 14 mpg at 75mph on the interstate. On this trip, I got a solid 18 mpg. I have not tried the towing or performance tunes yet.

I was also impressed with the gauge selections and the ease of installation. There are 40 gauge selections for the LML, and I can view as many as 8 of the at the same time.

My truck most often travels with a 3,000# Outfitter pop-up truck camper in the bed, and about half the time it is also towing a 7,400# Airstream travel trailer. I am anxious to evaluate the Edge Tuner's performance with these loads.

Brian

Been off the forums for awhile hopefully they're still active as they once were and Ill get a quick answer here...

Ill be draining my coolant this afternoon after me and a buddy go pickup a tractor out of town. I bought the last 4 gallons of Dexcool from the only place open today and I have about 4 gallons of distilled water. I plan to remove the lower rad hose on my LBZ and drain it like that. So Im assuming I wont be getting all of it out so how much fluid am I gonna need to fill it back up , do I have enough or should I wait till next week when I can buy more?

Also should I just loosen the bleeder on the thermostat when refilling until coolant comes out then finish topping off and idle for awhile and top off as needed? Never done this before so its due and I don't want to cause any issues to my work rig/daily driver, its all I got.

putting in my diamond eye exhaust and I cannot get the downpipe off the turbo. the clamp nut and bolt are removed, the band and inner lip wont budge. any one have any pointers on how to remove id appreciate it greatly! thanks guys.

On Sunday morning, 05/12, between 2a-9a an unknown person hit my wife's car, tearing the mirror off, & my truck doing a couple K worth of damage. The vehicle also struck the vehicle in front of me but hey it ain't mine. Parked over the curb to get further away from traffic and folded the mirror in. This was my straight '06 LBZ with 60606 miles on it and now it has over $3500 damage to the driver side....just sick. Side note is the wife's mirror is $386 primed so add paint and materials.

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My truck now has 12000 miles on it and all was fine until the Dealer decided to throw darts at it for a guess at why there is a droan. ( I have already addressed that issue in another post and no it is still not fixed)

In any case they replaced the fan clutch and the new one ran almost constant once the ambient temp was above 60 degrees The engine/tranny temps were normal, but it would just come on and stay on.

I took it back again a week ago and it was only 46 degrees out and of course it would not engage. Told the service writer about it and asked if there was a sensor or something of the sort that signals the fan to engage. He wasn't sure. They changed out the fan clutch anyway and tested the one they pulled out and found it to be bad.

So now on my 3rd fan clutch and after a week it runs intermitently, mostly while on side streets. once on the highway I don't notice it. Again the engine/tranny temps are normal, so not sure why it is engaged?

Is anyone aware of how this thing operates and what triggers the engagement?

I did call the dealer back, they will look into it, but I was definitely not a priority on their list.

Hello all..my name is simon,i live in london england..pleased to meet you all..

i have a 1972 range rover i fitted with an ex cucv 6.2,but it turns out the ip was shot,leaked fuel everywhere,smoked but did run..
now...getting it repaired was £600 plus 20%tax here..thats close to $1000!
so i went to ebay..bought from usa a remanufactored db2 4544 from here (ebay number)
130895135815

i refitted..AFTER adjusting fueling on side by 1/4 turn as engine is turboed..i did in clean enviroment,carefully,i did it correctly..

the engine fires up no problem.but revs to max instantly...the intake manifold is not on yet..and one must cut off straight away or rod outa side of block time!

the ip has no throttle cable on it and i have backed everything right off,the car HAS electric fuel pump..(low pressure)
i will be putting max fiuel screw back 1/4 turn today,(just incase) but expect same results..

please tell me i have not bought a pup!!

regards from london. (if interested here is build thread for car in question,bewarned its long) Classic one week to get this done!! - Page 43 - Land Rover Zone

I just installed a PPE cooler and filled the trans with Transynd. During daily driving my temps are consistent with the stock cooler. Is this normal ? Does the upgraded cooler only keep the temps lower during towing ? I searched the forum for the answers but did not find one. I would appreciate any insight.