If I understand correctly both of these install low on the truck. My question is if you were driving through corn fields or brush, off road in general, will they get dammaged? How open are they? What about heavy slush, ice, snow banks etc etc?

Thanks for your honest replys no bashing please!

I have been thinking the same thing! I'm going to do a little "preventative maintenance" in the near future and will most likely install either the V2 or the EOC. The EOC mounts between the tow hooks and looks vunerable where the V2 is tucked behind the front bumper area. I've looked that the pictures of the V2 however I'm having a hard time figuring out exactly where it is mounted. If anyone has a full front view of their truck with the V2 installed, please post the pic I would really appreciate it. Considering all of the positive remarks I have read about the V2 it will most likely be the one that I will choose but I would like to get a better view of it installed. Thanks!!!

I know on the V2 that if you are running over anything sticking up from the road or field, it will hit the factory plastic piece (right below front bumper) before it hits the frame or radiator of the V2. However, the rubber piece that hangs below the frame of the V2 is the lowest spot and is lower than the plastic piece of the front bumper: but it is a rubber (tire material) piece and will flex right back. Currently I have only the Rad Mod V2 system installed (No Aux. Fan) and it has completly cured my OH problems (lower tranny temp. as well, and much better fuel economy because the factory roaring fan doesn't rob me of MPG). I am "floating" around the idea of ordering the electric fan for the V2 (although I believe I don't need it for the OH) and this should allow me to remove the rubber lower air dam that mounts on the frame of the V2 system. Basically I am assuming that the fan will more than make up the difference of removing the rubber air dam, but I have no proof in this theory and it is only my hypothesis. The way I see it is even if I am wrong I can reinstall the rubber air dam.

What if you back over brush?

This is of the V2 installed on my truck... I do not own this one and it is on there for test purposes... I just took these pictures about 10 minutes ago and it is a production model V2 with fan..
First up the front of my truck..

IN this picture all you can see of the Mod is the front air dam... It is Rubber and after two months of driving I have not had any problems with it...

http://www.truckandrvreview.com/tr1.jpg

Next is a picture of the only thing you can see of the radiator and fan, on a Chevy. With your eye at the slot level this is all you can see of the radiator.. The silver thing is the very top of the radiator...

http://www.truckandrvreview.com/tr4.jpg


This is from the side of the truck and shows the front metal shield that would stop a stick or other large object from going up and damaging it.

http://www.truckandrvreview.com/tr2.jpg

And this is from the same side but shows the rear guard that protects the hoses and rear fittings.. The fan controller sensor is seen in this picture..

http://www.truckandrvreview.com/tr3.jpg

As you can see it is very well protected. The working parts are better protected than the main radiator...

What if you back over brush?
No problem. Both are well protected.

The only thing I could see is minor ice buildup on either if you modify the lower valance for airflow. Once you were running again the buildup would melt quickly. There is more discussion here;

http://dieselplace.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=39

Swatkins thanks for the pics. Looks like my snow plow bracket uses the same mounting location. Some mods would be needed for sure to make it work. Is the rubber air dam needed?

Swatkins thanks for the pics. Looks like my snow plow bracket uses the same mounting location. Some mods would be needed for sure to make it work. Is the rubber air dam needed?

I second that question, as stated earlier I am thinking of adding the electric fan and removing the rubber airdam. Has anybody installed the Rad Mod V2 with fan system minus the lower rubber air dam??? Any towing results???

Swatkins thanks for the pics. Looks like my snow plow bracket uses the same mounting location. Some mods would be needed for sure to make it work. Is the rubber air dam needed?


Your welcome :)

I understand the mod does need it to work, especially on a Chevy, when the optional fan is not used... Most of the early testing that proved this mod eliminated overheating was done before the fan was an option. The dam not only helps force cool air into the V2 but also builds an area of negative pressure behind it so that the exhaust air from the V2, and main engine compartment, can escape.

Most people think the V2 mod is just a extra radiator, it's not. It's a well though out system that gives extra surface to cool the coolant while at the same time uses different parts to increase the airflow and protect the parts...

I don't know of anyone that has tried it without the dam and with the fan installed... You'll have to ask Tx about that.

Exactly why I'm not in a big hurry to try my theory, my current setup is working great while towing and I hate messing with something that works great. Maybe I will order the fan and do trial test runs with the fan but with and without the airdam. Since I'm not so energetic, I doubt that will happen until next summer (if even then): plus I'm so pleased with crushing my OH problems I just hate messing with the fix!

Exactly why I'm not in a big hurry to try my theory, my current setup is working great while towing and I hate messing with something that works great. Maybe I will order the fan and do trial test runs with the fan but with and without the airdam. Since I'm not so energetic, I doubt that will happen until next summer (if even then): plus I'm so pleased with crushing my OH problems I just hate messing with the fix!

Lets talk about this...

Indeed lets talk about it. Veeery interested.....:)

Thanks for the pics Swatkins!!! The other pics that I've seen up until now made it difficult for me to understand where the V2 is mounted. I appreciate you posting them, thanks again!!

Lets talk about this...

OK, all this time I didn't realize how important that lower air dam was, I kinda theorized that it did help some but not much. However I am beginning to believe that it does much more than what I realized. I just wonder if the electric fan would compensate for the loss of the air dam: and does anybody know how much noise the elect. fan on the V2 system generates? I sure hope it is no where close to the noise level of the factory fan because if so I would not be willing to give up the lower air dam for the fan. This summer with the V2 I have heard the fan only about 6 short lived times (only when pulling on long/steep grades): and I absolutely do not miss it! I am now very happy pulling with my LLY.

In the last pic it looks like the rad is just below the frame. My snow plow bracket bolts on to the same spot in the frame as rad and runs across to the other side. So the rad would have to sit above the bottom of the frame in order to clear snow plow bracket or the snow plow bracket would have to be modified. Not sure if the V2 hangs below frame but it looks like it does. Still a little worried about sticks and brush plunging into rad. I know my truck needs a little help with running hot not as bad as some but it appears to slowly getting worse. Pressure washing the stack helps but not a cure.

You must remove the stack components to clean them properly. I do it every 2 months.

Grizz88,

I have some pictures of the TD-EOC loaded in my garage - this will give you an idea of its mounting location.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/garage.php?do=hall&u=11487

Doug,
The electric fan is very quiet. In fact after I installed it I pulled my trailer for a little trip on the freway. Pulled over at an off ramp because I didn't think it was working. I didn't hear it untill I was right in front of it!
I have an "overactive" fan it comes on at almost any hill I try to climb pulling my trailer even with the V2. But with the fan installed my trip to the coast last weekend was quiet. The fan only came on towards the top of long and steep climbs and was only on for 1-1/2 minutes at a time.

Any results with the EOC worth reporting?

You must remove the stack components to clean them properly. I do it every 2 months.

By remove do you mean completly out of the truck?

Grizz88,

I have some pictures of the TD-EOC loaded in my garage - this will give you an idea of its mounting location.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/garage.php?do=hall&u=11487

What is the extra flap in the grill area? Has anyone removed the oem oil cooler and replaced it with an aftermarket (same general location)?

What is the extra flap in the grill area? Has anyone removed the oem oil cooler and replaced it with an aftermarket (same general location)?

The OEM oil cooler is built into the oil filter housing.. It uses coolant from the coolant system to cool the oil just before it is introduced back into the engine. I have an Autometer oil temp gauge sensor located just after the OEM oil cooler... It is reporting oil temp readings within 10 to 25 degrees of the readings on my Autometer ECT gauge.. Bottom line is the factory oil cooler works great when it is fed cool coolant...

Grizz88,

The extra flap is a shroud over the tranny cooler. It helps direct air flow through the transmission cooler. Swatkins is right about the OEM oil cooler - it cannot be removed and is a water to oil cooler. The TD-EOC is an additional oil cooler and is an air to oil cooler. Using a V2 to keep the coolant cool allows the water to oil cooler (OEM built-in one) to work well. Using the TD-EOC removes heat from the oil so the heated oil is not burdening the cooling system as much thus the coolant temps stay reasonable. Both products do what they are supposed to do, remove a large amount of heat from the engine so the OEM radiator and OEM oil cooler can cope with whatever heat is left - so far I have not heard of complaints from users of either product.


As for your question about vulnerability to damage, I do have some concerns about protecting the TD-EOC with respect to the opening I created in my bumper. That said, there are many vehicles that have a similar setup with openings in the same place. The TD-EOC is very rugged. Even a stock truck without skid plates is prone to damage up front driving through fields - the thin plastic bumper bottom and plastic splash guard don't hold up very well to rocks, limbs and other items like you mentioned while off-roading.

In the last pic it looks like the rad is just below the frame. My snow plow bracket bolts on to the same spot in the frame as rad and runs across to the other side. So the rad would have to sit above the bottom of the frame in order to clear snow plow bracket or the snow plow bracket would have to be modified. Not sure if the V2 hangs below frame but it looks like it does. Still a little worried about sticks and brush plunging into rad. I know my truck needs a little help with running hot not as bad as some but it appears to slowly getting worse. Pressure washing the stack helps but not a cure.

it seems anything tall enough to reach that rad under there would not get a shot at it cause it would be bent over by the front of the truck and the gaurd itself. Is that gaurd part re-moveable, maybe one w/smaller holes could be swapped in????

My experiance has been limited, however I did manage to bottom my truck a few times with the V2 on board. The dam folded back to original position, everything above it was untouched. I wasnt too excited with bottoming the truck out, but it had to be done to get where I was going. I had a dirty dam when it was done, no other issues.

By remove do you mean completly out of the truck?
We are removing the rad & cac. Even after pressure washing the stack we still get this.

We are removing the rad & cac. Even after pressure washing the stack we still get this.


Wow thats hard to believe. How did you clean after removing? More pressure washing.:) Does that extra effort make much difference. I guess it must or you wouldn't do it. Thanks for the tip

Wow thats hard to believe. How did you clean after removing? More pressure washing.:) Does that extra effort make much difference. I guess it must or you wouldn't do it. Thanks for the tip


The reason it cleans better is due to being able to wash each component individually. Also when laying horizontal gravity pulls the dirt away as opposed to when it is in the truck.

Mostly air pressure. Sometimes you have to use a small screw driver to push sand and pebbles out. Then we pressure wash it again before putting it back in. It's not an overheating cure, but it definitely helps.

Doug, since you have the better looking Dmax, I'd try taking out the black plastic filler in the lower valance first, before getting the fan.