Hi, i'm having trouble with my 6.2 liter diesel. it's in an 87 chev 1.25 ton custom delux pick up. it's a military issue. any way i was driving down the road and the truck just died. the glow plugs would not engage and the motor would just turn over. replaced the glow plug module and know i am gettting power back to the glows plugs. but the motor still won't start. i've been all over the wires with a test light and alls good.. there is power in the injector pump... iwas wondering if there is any other something that could of fried or a selinode that must have power to it to start?
i'm very ignorent to this diesel motor any suggestions would be very appreciated..
thanks,
mike:help:

check for a body ground...not sure on the earlier models, but later models it'll screw everything up.

to find out if you've got fuel, loosen or remove an injector and turn it over...also check for fuel going into the fuel filter...

with power to th e pink wire at the ip pump pull the wire off then put it on to see if you hear the solinoid in the ip click. as said above open bleeder on your fuel system and crank to check for low pressure supply side fuel , if that works crack a line at the injector you won't see much after cranking but some is alll you need. are your glow plugs heating up? i know you said they are how do you know. the dash lite. they feel warm to touch after cycling. 12v to wires at glow plug when cycling. we will watch for a repley . good luck

Welcome to the forum! :welcome2:

Start with electrical. Make sure the solenoid in the injection pump clicks when you connect and disconnect the connector as farmer0_1 described (you must have the ignition key in the "on" position when you perform the test). This is really the only electrical thing that would cause it to stall like that (unless your batteries are good and dead for some reason, but in that case it wouldn't crank either).

If it clicks, move on to the fuel system. If it doesn't, run positive battery voltage to the terminal on the pump using a clip lead. See if it clicks when you connect and disconnect the clip lead. If it doesn't, you've got a malfunctioning shut off solenoid.

If the electrical stuff is all working, move to the fuel system. First, the stupid stuff... Is there fuel in the tank? The gauges on these are not know for accuracy, so you will have to take off the filler neck and stick something in the tank to find out.

Good luck!

thanks for the info gunna try every thing mentioned tonight...
keep ya all updated... thanks, mike

checked selinoid on injector pump.. there is three wires the big red one and two smaller green ones. when i disconnect the big red one can't hear any thing.. but when i pull the little green one i can hear a click.. is that what is suppose to happen? if my system is air bound how do i bleed it??

I had problems with my 85 6.2 stalling for no reason - turned out to be a loose battery terminal.
Also I had a no start issue, glow plug controler would cycle , but no start. Turned out all the glow plugs were shot.
There will be a couple 6.2 / 6.5 experts at the Northeast gettogether latter this month.

the red pink wire is the one you want to hear a click on . check to see if there is 12volts in the wire if there is and you here no click when touching the terminal the fuel shut off soliniod is probably bad and you can carefully change it out to a new one.

The big red one is the one you are concerned with.

That wire feeds power to a solenoid (the shutoff solenoid) inside the injection pump when the ignition is on. When you shut the engine off, you cut power to the solenoid. The solenoid moves and shuts off the fuel to the engine.

If there is no click, the solenoid is not moving when you put power to it. So it always stays in the "off" position. It certainly isn't going to run like that, is it?

Before you invest the time and money to get a new solenoid, you should check to make sure there is voltage at the pink wire. If there isn't, you will be wasting money on a new solenoid. If there's voltage at that wire, then you need a new solenoid.

You have to have 9 volts to the IP "when cranking the engine". I have checked wiring with test light power everywhere, still won't start. Check lead to IP with multimeter 12volts crank engine voltage downed to 2. Run a wire from battery to IP, fired right up!

that's some voltage drop you have there. just have to backtrack on the wiring to see where the resistence is. try checking it while cranking on the stud on the firewall on the drivers side of the pickup. if i remember right positive voltage leaves the pos. term on the pass. side battery and attaches to back of alternator then another wire leaves the alt. and goes to the stud at firewall then after leaving the stud on firewall it splits in to two leads and heads for either fuse panel or ign switch. from ign switch back out to the soleniod. hope this helps. i have had problems with the wire leaving the pos on the battery on the pass side having been corroded up inside where you cannot see it.

Hi, i'm having trouble with my 6.2 liter diesel. it's in an 87 chev 1.25 ton custom delux pick up. it's a military issue. any way i was driving down the road and the truck just died. the glow plugs would not engage and the motor would just turn over. replaced the glow plug module and know i am gettting power back to the glows plugs. but the motor still won't start. i've been all over the wires with a test light and alls good.. there is power in the injector pump... iwas wondering if there is any other something that could of fried or a selinode that must have power to it to start?
i'm very ignorent to this diesel motor any suggestions would be very appreciated..
thanks,
mike:help: thanks a lot every body the beast is alive, sure enough the fuel shut off switch was bad.. found some old parts someone had and tested it and she fired up third roll over...):h still don't have brake lights or rear blinkers?? thanks so much couldn't of figured it out with out every one's help...

Glad you got it fixed! :)