Ok, I am getting a jr kit and i need a converter, i dont tow anything heavy and i love to hot rod. The most power i will ever go after will probably be 500 so with all this info what converter would be my best choice? And does anyone know of anybody that is aroung georgia that is good with the alli???:help:

what part of Georgia, suncoast is in northern Florida.

i live about 20 min south of atlanta.

/Insert shameless plug here:

I like my ATS Five Star! :D

\End Plug

i live about 20 min south of atlanta.

Check ATS but suncoast ins't far away.

I just returned my SC 1050 to get a SC 1057 converter.

personally if u going that far why not put the SCIV kit in w/ clutches and be done for when u bump it up more.

one reason $$$$

your gonna need more than just a trans go junior if you plan on putting 500 to the ground and make hold. Like converter, and full trans go kit. there are several great trans builders that stand behind there work like Mike L. and dmaxallitech are two best that I read about on dp but good luck with your quest

1057 works very well for me

your gonna need more than just a trans go junior if you plan on putting 500 to the ground and make hold. Like converter, and full trans go kit. there are several great trans builders that stand behind there work like Mike L. and dmaxallitech are two best that I read about on dp but good luck with your quest

2006's dont need a "full" transgo kit. The internal work is already done for them. Thats why only the valve body stuff is needed.

You should match the converter to what your going to use it for. If daily driving and towing with an occasional race is what your going to do with less than 450 RwHp then that takes a different design than a 500 RwHp lighten race truck would use. Do a search on here about converters and you can find several threads about one Vs the other. The TTS triple gets the job done just fine, for most applications.

I run the suncoast 1057 and absolutely love it. It gets the power to the ground quickly, if the tach moves so does the speedometer. I've used it for towing, racing, and daily driving. Performs great in all applications.

Most folks who are into hot rodding on the street have the 1057. Reports are that the 5 Star would be a good choice too although I don't know which one is tighter or more efficient in fluid mode.

If you are operating heavy towing and/or high altitudes you may want less agressive coupling so you can build boost/rpms a bit quicker. I went with a 1056 for that reason. - figured the 200 bucks was better spent on my t-case bracket. I think the 1056 still is tighter than the stock converter though.

How many miles you have since the 1056 installation LTChip>?

I plan on heading to sunny California in late winter to see the sheep lover. Trying to decide between the 56 or 57. Also, should I have Mike change the clutches while the tranny is out.

I haven't asked how much the clutch and installation would cost. Shouldn't be too much more as the tranny will already be out.

TX

baa baaa baaaaaa all the way home ;)

I have about 10K miles on it.

I chose to go with the IV but there is sort of that logical slippery slope of:
I'll just do the coverter and transgo...but...it is only a bit more to go with the III then again...it is only a bit more to go with the IV...oh yeah I'll need that cooler...and brace...and might as well add in syn fluid....ahhhh what's another 200 for the 1057....$5k+ later you'll have your trans done.

I chose the 1056 because I tow horses and operate at altitude more than I'll ever race or hot-rod. Still feels tighter than stock. Shifts are more pronounced. Overall very happy with it. I ran some big programs fooling about and it worked very well.

My installer was meticulous about the re-learning so when I got the truck back it was smooth as stock - no funky shifts. Haven't had any problems with it. Would go the same route again.

I liked the 1057 in Casper so much, I had to upgrade Blue to a 1057 also :D

Another vote for the 1057.

Tx
I already put the brace on, did it the same time that we did the transgo, deep pan and transynd.

I too tow heavy (23k+ total) and have no plans on racing.

Anybody have an idea on clutch costs? I will probably call Mike next week, I hate to keep bothering him knowing that he has a lot bigger fish frying in his shop.

Take care and all drive safe this weekend.

Tx
I already put the brace on, did it the same time that we did the transgo, deep pan and transynd.

I too tow heavy (23k+ total) and have no plans on racing.

Anybody have an idea on clutch costs? I will probably call Mike next week, I hate to keep bothering him knowing that he has a lot bigger fish frying in his shop.

Take care and all drive safe this weekend.

I also tow horses (11K) and my tractor (14K) on occasion. I went with the 1056 and it works perfect for me. The attitude slippage with the 1056 shows just about exactly half the slippage of the stock unit. I checked it under identical conditions and constant speed on the same road before and after the swap. You can still light the tires any time you want. I don't do any track racing with my truck, I have a drag car for that but I do like to catch a Ferd or Dodggy at a stop light on occasion. Good Luck, hope this helps.