All that is left is to have the guy weld my pipes tomorrow. The intake worked out so sweet. Post some pics when the pipes are on!!!!

wow where did you get that intake?

that looks sweet!

Pennisular (Spelling?) makes them. It's an intake for their marine engines.

Like he said. I don't remember who the first one was to use it on here, but I am glad he did because I never would have known about it. It was $60 for the intake and $15 for shipping. But I think it was well worth the money. I have a bunch of leftover pipe, so now I might try to fab up a air filter box with some aluminum diamond plate and the polished 3" tubing I have left.




Pennisular (Spelling?) makes them. It's an intake for their marine engines.

I found the intake at Peninsular when I was there picking up my new motor. It works a lot better than flipping the stock intake. Looks better to. You'll love the way the intercooler lowers your exhaust and intake temps. It sure does feel good to install your own intercooler at a fraction of the cost of the kits out there.

I am glad you posted it because I wasn't liking the idea of taking my intake off to replace my fuel filter everytime.

I didn't like that idea either. I really like that bracket you made for that vacuum line. Great idea. I just have mine stuck on to the short piece of hose which is supporting it. I'm gonna fab one up like yours now.

This is a great site with tons of great ideas. I can't tell you how much everyones post on this subject has saved me time and money.
:ro)

Yeah me too. When you said I believe 3-90's and 4-45's that's what I ordered. But then I ordered one of the kits with 8 pipes for $85 also just in case I screwed up. Now I have a bunch of extra pipes. But I'll use it on something. I have a buddy with a 1996 powerstroke and he wants to see how much this helps me towing and then he might do one.

r85sub, -that is some nice work you got going on there!

Ok, all you guys doing intercoolers are most definitely having an effect on my proposed "truck-budget".

Dang you guys!

I'm just gonna have to bite the bullet and do it, -after I replace the smoked clutch. :(

I had the truck on the beach this weekend, -need I say more?? ;)

Whats the clearance like with the 3" pipe on the AC hose ?

Also are you planning on using the rubber hoses and radiator clamps or are you going to upgrade to silicone and T-bolts ?

I priced out a full set of Silicone hoses and T-bolts OMG.

Anyone know how the cheapie hoses are holding up ?, not like were seeing 40-50 PSI here.

Looks good so far.

That blue is the silicone. I got 4 silicone couplers and 8 clamps from VECCO performance on Ebay for $40. You can definitely tell the difference also. I bought 8 piece kit that was 8 pipes and 8 rubber couples, cheap hose clamps, and 2 90 degree rubber couplers. There is no comparison to the silicone. The aluminum on the A/C line bends easy. I only bent it up about a 1/2" and it clears by a 1/4". But I could bend it more and still be fine. The other nice thing about VECCO is that the pipes I ordered already have the crimp or flare at the ends so the couplers don't come off. I don't know if that is a problem or not. I just think with it there is less chance of a hose blowing off. I am thinking about fabbing up a new intake box with some of the other pipe and rubber couplers and Some aluminum diamond plate I have.

Hey Chopperman. Were you at a Soccor game Saturday at Sylvan School on the corner of Auburn and Old Auburn? A buddy said he saw a guy with a DieselPlace.com shirt on.

I really like that bracket you made for that vacuum line. Great idea.

Was just about to post the same thing. REAL :cool2:

I found the intake at Peninsular when I was there picking up my new motor. It works a lot better than flipping the stock intake. Looks better to. You'll love the way the intercooler lowers your exhaust and intake temps. It sure does feel good to install your own intercooler at a fraction of the cost of the kits out there.

Not to bad mouth...

Report intake air temps. I suspect the fraction of the cost will also get you a fraction of the performance.

Come on - out with it - I think its the same reason I am saving to make a specific purchase - :cool:

Come on - out with it - I think its the same reason I am saving to make a specific purchase - :cool:

Which is???

I am definitely going to post IAT temps. I don't know when I'll get them towing since my kids started soccor.

Ive posted mine before. 160 at wot loaded ( 9k lb trailer )
On a 90+ degree day.
I run a very small ic 12x18 2.5 inlet and outlet

Im sure the guys running the premade kit and the larger core will be cooler but by how much ??


From the before and after I believe I cut my iat's nearly in half.
Total spent was
ic core 108 w/shipping
silicone hose connections 23
t-bolt clamps 45
3 2.5 exhaust u-bends 60
I guess i could add in some shop supplies for the mig wire power and a little rtv for the turbo housing and upper intake ???
dont forget about all the head scratching , swearing and general discomfort while laying under my truck
Some others may be a little better but my temps are acceptable to ME
Well within reason and much better than stock

When I figured area wise, mine had more surface area. My core is 20X12X3 area is 720. KD I believe someone said was 24X6.5X4. But I don't know just the core area. But even doing the total comes out to 624. Not bashing KD cooler. That is the one I was going to buy.

My point is the cheap route isn't always the best route. I've done my fair share of fabrication and custom work on many projects. I liked the "engineered" Spearco/Kennedy kit because it was a quick install and had been set up for the truck.

The rubber flap helps to direct air through the cooler. Plus, the KD core is much less exposed to the damage condition most of you complain about. The photos above show that the core is lower than the cross member. The KD core is above cross member by a couple of inches. It's wider and uses a two pass charge air flow scheme. I also like the tube routing much better than most of the home built jobs out there.

I'm not bashing anyone. I'd rather see people fabricating their own intercooler systems than run none at all, but there seems to be a "cheaper is better" mindset that I do not agree with. I just wanted to point out that many folks who are not stupid have chosen to spend the money on a kit...

I respect your opinion RJ but most of us are on a budget and cannot afford the $1300 plus tax and shipping of the Spearco setup from Kennedy.

My truck use to defuel on long grades due to air intake temps being so high. I would also have to back off on the throttle just to keep the EGT's out of the red. I could barely keep it at 55mph. Just recently I pulled my 8000 # travel trailer on a 95 degree day about 500 miles. I was able to hold 75mph and actually pass other rigs as apposed to being the slow poke on the road. The highest I saw EGT's were 850 post turbo. I did not have access to a scanner to monitor air intake.

I did put it on a scanner right after install. I held the gas to the floor until it hit 80 mph on a hot day on a slight uphill grade. My air intake only reached 130. I will have to borrow the scanner the next time I tow the camper.

My home made "Cheaper Is Better" intercooler sure works for me. It lowered my EGT's while towing by 200 degrees. My install looks great under the hood and I can live with my I/C hanging down a little and my pipes running through the wheel wells for a savings of $1000 dollars. :ro)

The 24x12x3 intercooler and this setup have been installed by many. For those contemplating this setup, don't be discouraged and Go For It!!! You won't be sorry.

Nobody called anybody stupid. For building there own, or buying one.

Personally, if you want to buy performance. It would seem to make a lot more sense to buy a duramax to start with.

$9000 for a truck
400 for exhaust
700 for marine injectors
400 for a PMD cooler
150 for intake kit
1400 for intercooler
500 for computer reflash
500 for cooling upgrades
Total, $13,000
Add in a rebuilt 18.1 compression motor. At around $8000. At right at $21,000 for a truck that will be just a lil more then a 2002 duramax. Throw a control box on that Dura max at $500 and the Duramax wins. And has less miles on the rest of the truck.

Build it how ya want. I'll get a Duramax next year for me. My truck is for my workers. I want it to tow also. So, cheap intercooler to help works for me. Putting a $1400 intercooler on a work truck wasn't going to happen. I want cheap and reliable. With a lil extra grunt to do what GM should have done to start with. That cheap intercooler is a saving grace for my truck. And, thanks to all who have worked it out. You provided a lot of people with a means to an end in reliability and liveability to there trucks that they might no of been able to afford.

If I want it fast. I'd have a Busa. Learned a long time ago. You ain't gonna beat a bike for a Drag race. If anybody thinks your truck is fast. Ride a rice rocket. You'll pee yourself... I love em.

My point is the cheap route isn't always the best route. I've done my fair share of fabrication and custom work on many projects. I liked the "engineered" Spearco/Kennedy kit because it was a quick install and had been set up for the truck.

The rubber flap helps to direct air through the cooler. Plus, the KD core is much less exposed to the damage condition most of you complain about. The photos above show that the core is lower than the cross member. The KD core is above cross member by a couple of inches. It's wider and uses a two pass charge air flow scheme. I also like the tube routing much better than most of the home built jobs out there.

I'm not bashing anyone. I'd rather see people fabricating their own intercooler systems than run none at all, but there seems to be a "cheaper is better" mindset that I do not agree with. I just wanted to point out that many folks who are not stupid have chosen to spend the money on a kit...

Nobody called anybody stupid. For building there own, or buying one.

Personally, if you want to buy performance. It would seem to make a lot more sense to buy a duramax to start with.



I special ordered my 99 6.5TD Tahoe in April of 98. It was my first diesel and I loved it, but it wasn't long until I had poured close to $8000 into my $24,000 truck (phazer gears, oversize injectors, guages, Mag-Hytec diff cover, 4" exhaust, FSD cooler, etc.) I had just turned 103,000 miles and was planning on driving it for many more years when I stopped by a dealership "just out of curiosity" and test drove a leftover DMax in October of 2001. Long story short, the DMax "off the lot" was what I had hoped my 6.5 was going to be and much much more. I've now got 128,000 miles on the DMax and plan to drive it for many more years (as long as I stay away from a "curious look" at an LBZ!;) )

I know I'm a little slow but...I've used straight water injection on gassers and it works.

Wouldn't water injection accomplish the same thing as the air to air intercooler and be MUCH less expensive?:rolleyes:

Be gentle.

My point is the cheap route isn't always the best route. I've done my fair share of fabrication and custom work on many projects. I liked the "engineered" Spearco/Kennedy kit because it was a quick install and had been set up for the truck.

The rubber flap helps to direct air through the cooler. Plus, the KD core is much less exposed to the damage condition most of you complain about. The photos above show that the core is lower than the cross member. The KD core is above cross member by a couple of inches. It's wider and uses a two pass charge air flow scheme. I also like the tube routing much better than most of the home built jobs out there.

I'm not bashing anyone. I'd rather see people fabricating their own intercooler systems than run none at all, but there seems to be a "cheaper is better" mindset that I do not agree with. I just wanted to point out that many folks who are not stupid have chosen to spend the money on a kit...



The core is not lower than the crossmember. It is the angle of the picture. I'll post a better picture of it. There is no doubt the Kennedy/Spearco intercooler is a good intercooler, and personally I really don't like the pipes in the fenderwell either. But I wasn't willing to spend $900 more to have my pipes under the hood. After I laid under my truck and looked at it if something were to got into my intercooler it would right through my oil pan most likely. That cheap little plastic plate is still there after 6 years and isn't all marked up, so I'm thinking the cooler will be alright.

I know I'm a little slow but...I've used straight water injection on gassers and it works.

Wouldn't water injection accomplish the same thing as the air to air intercooler and be MUCH less expensive?:rolleyes:

Be gentle.

Short answer, Yes. But then you have to mix in methanol so it won't freeze in the winter, constantly fill up the water tank...:blahblah:

I gotcha. Makes sense.

Well I'm cheap. I either used water and Isopropyl Alcohol from WalMart($0.98/bottle) or windshield washer fluid:jawdrop: whichever was handy.

Either seemed to burn equally well in the old gasser.

A good windshield washer pump makes a mighty good injector pump if you can get the flow right.

Methanol??? Never heard of it!:p:

Heres a few more pics. The one is the bottom mount and the other is just a pic from the ground.

OMG .. this thread took a wrong turn.

Oh, wasn't me at the soccer game. I'll have to get a DP shirt though:ro)

"Cheaper is better" - sorry that is not my mindset at all. I like to fabricate things and work on all my vehicles with my hands and my tools. I would consider myself lazy or maybe even stupid if I never bothered to attempt some of these projects myself. I kinda figured that these web forums were for - brainstorming, learning, and helping others to learn. I would rather not take the easy way out with a bolt on kit even though I can afford one.

A bit of self-satisfaction for completing a project like this should not be under-estimated.

I'm glad you're satisfied...

If I want it fast. I'd have a Busa. Learned a long time ago. You ain't gonna beat a bike for a Drag race.
Actually, bikes can be beaten with 4 wheels - all it takes is enough horsepower. I know someone with a supercharged '98 Corvette that has outrun a 'busa, and has the video to prove it. Takes about 650 rwhp and a lot of cash to do it though :)

Actually, bikes can be beaten with 4 wheels - all it takes is enough horsepower. I know someone with a supercharged '98 Corvette that has outrun a 'busa, and has the video to prove it. Takes about 650 rwhp and a lot of cash to do it though :)

$6,000 Used BUSA.... Deregulated. Runs 190mph and Low 10's to high 9's stock. If you can ride it. Also, streetable.

http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/testdata.html

$5000 for a turbo and a drag slick and lengthened swingarm. And ain't nothing touching it.

Running Low 10's in a 98 Vette and able to drive on the street? And run 190? How much money? I'm thinking past $60,000

Kenny Bernstein can beat a BUSA too. But, that's not streetable either.

None of these are Diesel either...):h

$6,000 Used BUSA.... Deregulated. Runs 190mph and Low 10's stock. If you can ride it. Also, streetable.

Running Low 10's in a 98 Vette and able to drive on the street? And run 190? How much money? I'm thinking past $60,000

It runs high 9's in the quarter with slicks. It is completely able to drive on the street no problem, and aside from a wicked exhaust sound, seems to be nearly stock at first glance. Everything is street legal except for the emissions (car doesn't have any cats). It is a forged 346 with an ATI supercharger running plenty of boost, intercooled and aftercooled, and requires race gas. Bone stock a '98 Vette did 180 mph with only 350hp - his will probably do over 210 if you're crazy enough to explore it. $60k sounds about right for the car with all the mods, but I'm sure he put more into his car than that over the years through the learning process.

Definitely not going to argue the bang for the buck factor between a bike and a car - bike will always win that debate.

Slicks part is the kicker. Bike was on Street tires.:p: And Stock exhaust.

Been to 185 on one. It's pretty stable. I wasn't on a enclosed track which means I'm stupid.

Built a couple old GSXR's. Helped friends out with some bikes and running problems. Diesels I don't know. Gassers, I'm pretty good at.

Cars I build to stick to the road in the turns. That's where they shine. Oversized flares with oversized tires. Big Red Brakes and fully adjustable suspension. Still pushin them at around 400hp. Depending on some things. Light car too.. With air... LOL Completely streetable. Throaty exhaust too.. 92 octane.

Neither one will pull a sled though...:grd:



It runs high 9's in the quarter with slicks. It is completely able to drive on the street no problem, and aside from a wicked exhaust sound, seems to be nearly stock at first glance. Everything is street legal except for the emissions (car doesn't have any cats). It is a forged 346 with an ATI supercharger running plenty of boost, intercooled and aftercooled, and requires race gas. Bone stock a '98 Vette did 180 mph with only 350hp - his will probably do over 210 if you're crazy enough to explore it. $60k sounds about right for the car with all the mods, but I'm sure he put more into his car than that over the years through the learning process.

Definitely not going to argue the bang for the buck factor between a bike and a car - bike will always win that debate.

Mverick, lets go for a ride!!

I got my pipes back tonight and installed. It was about 75 outside and just cruising around it IAT was at 95 and when I got on it from a red light up to about 55-60 MPH it went up to 106. I never checked it before so I don't have anything to compare it to. I only paid attention to IAT when I was towing. Guess I'll find out then how well this works next time we go camping.

NICE job, r85Sub !!!! (the thread sort of went -->LEFT and I didn't want you to think nobody appreciated what you did)

Thanks. I'm not to sure what happened. I wasn't trying to piss anyone off. I just hope it brings my intake temps down and helps with towing.

I got my pipes back tonight and installed. It was about 75 outside and just cruising around it IAT was at 95 and when I got on it from a red light up to about 55-60 MPH it went up to 106. I never checked it before so I don't have anything to compare it to. I only paid attention to IAT when I was towing. Guess I'll find out then how well this works next time we go camping.

Cool - I mean literally. That is some low IAT you have. It looks like you are going to be able to crank up the boost quite a bit more now.

I appreciate the information you are giving us. There is much satisfaction in DIY and who knows, you might come out better than an "Engineered" kit.

I have seen several posts where people allude to the fact that the *only* IC kit that was not just adapted from another application is the "Big Spearco/JK" It was purpose engineered.

I have been an experimenter all my life, which is why amateur radio is one of my favorite hobbies. It's all electronics with the satisfaction of talking to someone far away and saying "I am talking to you on my home brewed radio".

Testing new things on our trucks should NOT make us feel bad! It is done all the time on those expen$ive new Duramaxes and some of the limited vendors on this site are now having their products distributed by big name vendors!

Thanks. I'm not to sure what happened. I wasn't trying to piss anyone off. I just hope it brings my intake temps down and helps with towing.

No problems here. I hope your experience is very good!

Bone stock a '98 Vette did 180 mph with only 350hp - his will probably do over 210 if you're crazy enough to explore it.


To run 9's and also run over 210mph. He's probably able to run 8's. He needs to be geared to run the 9's and re gear to run speed.

I'm just guessing but nobody Gears there car to run 210mph if they are drag racing. Unless they're the big boys.


Nice job on the motor though. To pull those times.