I might have it now but here are the symptoms, vehicle will start just fine go through the light/warning checks of then stall, sometimes it starts and runs well at 65mph then like the fuel shuts off then on then off bucking and surging then it will run well for 20 -30 miles. i replaced the lifter pump ( old one wasn't very rthymic ( sometimes skipped) still no improvement, replaced fuel filter and added fuel treatment (diesel 911 ,in case I got a bad load of fuel) still no help then the air filter (it needed it) in case it was lacking for air, i even took it to my diesel friend and had him drive it ( it didn,t act up when he drove it ...go figure) so I thought my injector pump, then someone told me about the pmd/fsr? how common is that to my symptoms?, Also with out namebrand bashing is it better to mount one off the engine or on it? Any help will be very much appreciated as my wife is getting PO'd about me "easter egging" to find the problem. I heard that these pmd/fsr? are around 500 bucks is that right?

Go thru suggestions in this thread http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?ID=9921&PN=1 if all of it adds up PMD/FSD is suspect.


also do a search of all FSD/PMD (same item PMD becomes a FSD off pump mounted)posts in the forum tons wrtitten on the topic.


For my vote remote mount FSD is a plus just for maint alone, easier to swap if you need to 5min vs 30min at best on a cool engine IP FSD mount, plus you will need special home built tools to get at the PMD mount screws, which never seem to be handy when you are broke on side of road.


Many vendors of coolers/remote mount, or you can build your own, something you can try is to resurrect the FSD. Once you get it off the IP flop it over, & pop off the 2 plastic caps covering transistors, remove the locking nuts, then clean the studs, nuts and transistor base contact poins the nuts grab.


Loose nuts or oxidation cause poor electrical bonding and intermittent transistor function & stall/shutdown; I recovered mine by retorqing/cleaning, oxidation not visible so clean anyway.


re-torque carefully small studs easy to snap off 5-10" lb max use good inch lb torque wrench to set torque, if you want to chance it light snug then 1/4 to 1/2 turn more (go with torque wrench to be safe).


Your stalling happen on veggie oil or plain Diesel as well, from you sig I see you might be veggie power, you mix your own or buy it, there might be some problems there as well. Do you have capability of flusing system and running straight Diesel to see if problems clears, you aren't the 1st veggie guy reporting in with these sysmptoms, which are common to any 6.5 but I just want to make sure the VO isn't a variable to the problem.Edited by: Turbine Doc

Thanks a lot, nothing done to my truck so far I just want it to be running top notch (no problems) BEFORE the adaptation of the greasecar kit. My 1998 VW TDI works fantastic on it, my record ( high mileage) BETWEEN diesel fill ups is 2,551 miles .

Surging and stalling? Fuel delivery could be restricted between the lift pump and IP.


Have you checked the engine for fuel leaks while running? All those rubber lines between injectors rot out in ten years. It's easy to see/smell fuel leaks as they will usually coat the injectors or exhaust manifold or the lifter valley.


syn-fuel, agtane, biodiesel, WVO, oxydiesel


The future will be homemade.