ok, gonna tear into this 6" full traction lift starting tonight after work hopefully. i think i have all the parts im gonna need and tools, also picking up $450 worth of new steering parts (ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm and pitman arm) today, and have kennedy diesel idler arm and pitman arm supports that should be arriving today. so does anybody have any last minute suggestions, advice, tips or tricks to help make the install go smoothly? this is my first lift kit attempt and from reading through the intstructions it looks like a lot of work but doesnt seem too difficult, the only thing im a little nervous about is the cutting of the diff bracket and such. should i get a torsion bar pulling tool cause im gonna be putting in green keys also or just use a BFH to get them out? i tried removing the bars on my 99 ford once but they were so rusted in that it was impossible so im hoping that they are easier on this truck, its an 03 with very little rust on anything underneath. sorry about the long post and thanks for any info anyone can give.

For someones first time I would make sure you have as much room as possible to lay the parts out. The best is when the install goes on for hours just looking for parts you pulled out of the box.

BEEN THERE !!!! it sucks.

You will need a key puller and some forks to pull the steering apart. sorry no tool part numbers but I'm sure there will be someone that has them.

Don't forget the most important part of the install .... POST PIC'S when done...haha

Dont know if you've got a Checkers, Shucks, or Kragen near you, but i would go rent a pitman arm puller and a torsion bar key remover from them. I think its free if you bring it back w/in 24 Hrs. Then just $7/day after that. Or go to Harbor Freight and buy them. You WILL need them. And they will allow the install to go way smoother. :grd:

well ive got an entire barn to work in so space shouldnt be an issue and im gonna try to label everything and take pics as it comes apart so i can remember what goes where. now the key puller, im assuming that is to remove the keys from the Tbars? is that a GM tool or can i get that at a parts store and is it like a gear puller or something?
and i do have the pitman arm puller already

To remove the torsion bars you need either a torsion bar unloading tool (don't know where you get one) or a good quality 8" gear puller. I use an 8" puller from Sears, but people have had problems using gear pullers. If it slips off when under pressure you could be badly injured. Either tool is used to unload the torsion bars do you can take the adjuster bolt and keys out, then you cab take out the t-bars.

I would not recommend using the green keys with your lift. You probably won't need them and they take more force to install than the standard keys. You should be able to get an additional 2" of crank from your t-bars with stock keys and that is really as much as you want to add. More than 2" of t-bar crank and the ride gets progressively rougher. A 6" lift easily clears 35s with no t-bar cranking.

You will also need a Pittman arm puller. To get my Pittman off I had to let my 7 HP, 60 gal air compressor tank fill completely up, then hit the puller with short bursts to break it loose. Installing the Pittman was a chore and if I was doing it again I would pull the stering box. I took a 1 5/16" combination wrench and u-bolted an extension bar to make me a 26" long wrench. To get the new Pittman seated I used do much force on the nut that I started tuning both sets of front tires. It would be much better to press the new Pittman on.

I used a reciprocating saw to cut off the diff ears.

I recommend you replace you install poly control arm bushings while you are at it. They can be a pain to install but they really stablize the front end.

ok, i do have a gear puller that i have used to unload Tbars before with no problems, i just try and stay as far away as possible and go slowly. so the Tbars should slide out of the keys and control arms after unloading them right? i tried removing them on my 99 F150 last year and they were rusted in so bad that there was no way to move them forward or back. hopefully this truck will be easier, it is an 03 with little rust and ive been soaking all the bolts and Tbars down with PB Blaster for the last couple days to try and free everything up beforehand.

p.s. thanks for the replys guys, its all very helpful so keep em coming!

You will probably have the "ping" them with a ballpeen to get them loose. Even if there is no rust, the metal squeezes together and grips pretty tight.

These threads might have some useful info.

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81420

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81433

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11342

thanks, all very helpful!! I cant wait to get out of work now and get started on this thing

I would not recomend using a gear puller, at all. But if you are, try to find a two arm puller that you can unbolt the arms from. I made a U shaped bracket to fit over the crossmember then bolted the puller to it. That way there is no way it can come off and KILL you. I used some 3X3X1/4 angle iron to make it.

good idea, i had thought about making something like that, i think i might try it

Don't forget the beer!:)

oh ya, beers a given!

I had 35" tires on my truck with just the 6" lift easily, with green keys, cutout flares, and larger rear blocks I am running 41" tires. Rides a bit rougher with the green keys and puts more tension on the front end, but if you need the clearance they will help. Might check your front bearings while it is apart.

cool, well ive got 33's on it now and im planning on running 35's or 36's with the lift but its good to see that i could go bigger with just the 6 inch and some other mods

Use the correct unloading tool. Beg, borrow or steal it but do not use gear puller. Trust me on this. I've done close to 20 lift kits.

One more thing... unibits work WELL for drilling the holes, but they're costly, new complete set runs close to a Franklin.

I have probably loaded and unloaded my suspension a hundred times with a 8" gear puller. Because I know what I am doing I have never had an issue. However, I am slow to recommend that method anymore because of the injury you can get if you mess up.

I like Cheyenne's idea. Pics?

That is a good idea... :HiHi:

ok, its quarter to 2 in the morning, got the whole pass side and most of the drivers side torn out, torsion bars out, gonna do the ball joints in the morning, things going well so far!

I like Cheyenne's idea. Pics?
What, and show you guys my welding skills?):h
If you really want them I'll stir some up

E-mail them to me and I'll post them.

Ok, it sunday afternoon now, 4:36 PDT. Lets hear the progress, are you done yet, & please post pics when done!