Now that the summer camping season is upon us, I fabbed a cold air intake system that dumps additional fresh air directly into the engine compartment through a 4" duct system. My thinking was that cooler, fresh air can't be a bad thing. In fact, under normal driving conditions (no trailer) I'm now reading engine coolant temps about 6+* cooler than before the system was installed. I'm looking forward to seeing the results when we hit the road for the long weekend. Now, if I can only figure a way to direct some of the air from the duct to my airbox...

Do you think the dumping of this much fresh air into the engine compartment will have a negative impact on the operation of the fan clutch? Or, has the lowered coolant temps that I've seen already answered that question?

Where did you locate the air duct?


I'm looking into modifing the air intake through the hood.

I went to Home Depot and purchased a floor mounted heating/cooling register, modified the "outlet" to run 4" duct, painted everything flat black and mounted it to the underside of the front bumper adjacent to my tow hook. The bumper was pre-drilled at that point. You can't see it unless you're lookin'. I'm wondering if the new air will cause my fan to cycle more frequently than normal.

Spin,


I don't think there is such a thing as too much cooling for the 6.5, maybe in winter in places that have a real one; MS Gulf Coast ain't one of those places.


Cowl hood is on my wish list maybe if I start whining now, Santa will bring me a Goodmark steel direct fit one, my good buddy RATDOC before he went over to the DMax world cowl hooded his 6.5 Burb, night & day difference for underhood temps for the better.


In addition to more flow while driving, he also had passive cooling during idle and post engine run shutdown reducing heat soak which in my opinion is another killer for our PMD/FSD. As with the opening in the cowl hood left a path for the heat to escape thru natural drafting remember heat rises.

Tim,


I luuuuuuv those Goodmark hoods. Do they ever set off the truck in a major way. I've seen two, and in both cases the cowl was cosmetic only. Other than your reference to RATDOC, I've never heard from anyone that could report on their effectiveness.

Spin the Good Mark steel replacement hood is functional I even toyed with notion of putting a IC under a cowl hood once as an alternative to the under bumper thing, sort of like the radiator set up of military HUMVEE, wasn't wanting to do that much R&D so I went with the bumper setup which did require some R&D to fit in a K1500 but less though than a hood mounted IC woiuld have been


I'm in a quandry tho which would look better the cowl or the ram with twin scoops and raised center. RAT tole me that I would not be disappointed with the cowl he was very happy with his. Tried to convince me I needed to buy his Burb before he traded it for the DMAX but you can't pull a Gooseneck with a Burb which was the requirement that led me to the truck.


TimEdited by: Turbine Doc

Hmmm, a Burb pulling a gooseneck. Now that's a picture. Build a square frame around the aft end of the truck, mount the hitch to the top of the frame, voila! It would take a little Yankee ingenuity but I'm sure there are plenty of folks on this page that are up to the task.

A gooseneck needs an axle under the hitch to work correctly.

QM I think Spin was adding a little humour, but "training wheel" axle under the platform , maybe a dually axle for carry capacity, pull the dolly/platform with the Burb, and the GN with the dolly add a few more wheels and you move into 18 wheel category with a Burb Hmnnnnn, gets brain juices flowin.Edited by: Turbine Doc