I have a 1982 chevy with a 6.2 I am having a little trouble with it. I put the glow plugs on a seperate switch so they would not come on all the time when they are not needed. This truck has sat for two years. Now I am having problems starting it. I have to use starting fluid to start it. when its warmed up it will start up every time. When its cooled down it will not start. even if you use the glow plugs it won't start. It acts like its loosing its prime. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. I have replaced the fuel filter and that did not do any good. I can't figure out what the problem could be. Like I said it will start right up with a little squirt of starting fluid but not before. Please give me any suggestions.

Test your glow plugs again, make sure you don't have one or two bad, I have had brand new ones burn up on first use.

Checked the glow plugs again. They all tested good and have power to each of them. I changed the fuel filter now I can't get the dam thing to start. I think I should change the other fuel filter. I can't get it to start on starting fluid right now either. I am going to be gone a few days but will check for any other suggestions when I get back home sunday.

Did you change fuel filter before, or after your start problems began? Perhaps you did not purge all the air out of the system, and have no prime? Also, what are you using for "starting fluid"? I'm told ether can cause damage to the motor, but using a spray oil, like WD40 is O.K. Someone set me straight if I'm wrong.

"starting fluid" will run the engine without getting oil where it should be.....you can hear the difference when you are using starting fluid and the thing is running on diesel...... as long as you dont run it on ether too long, im taking a chance by saying it shouldn't hurt it... I haved used it a few times myself, but never for too long. if it wont start on the first couple of sprays then something else needs attention. ive never tried wd40 or heard of the affects

After Glow plugs my next guess is always starter.
It may sound like it spins up good, but you would be suprised what a difference a new one will make.

Escpecially if you have had a starting problem for a while, those extra cranks take a lot of life out of a starter.

I was using Either to start it as starting fluid. The starting problem accured after changing one of the fuel filters. There are two on there and I only changed the large one. It was full of crap. I am going to napa to get another filter tomorrow and change them both. It always starts hard unless its warmed up. Usually I have to give it one quick squirt of starting fluid then it will start right up. After I changed the fuel filter it will not even start on starting fluid. I think its full of air and im not sure how to get the air out of the line now other than change the filter and crank it over until it starts. I checked all the glow plugs. I put the test light on the positive side and put it on the glow plug and it lit up. That is how I was told to test them. I was told if the light don't lite up its a bad or shorted out glow plug. I also tested the wires going to the glow plugs and there is juice going to them. I also used a volt meter. There was 12 volts going to each one. If you have any other ideas on how to get the air out of the system or another way to get it started that is easier please let me know I am open to all ideas. Thanks a bunch I greatly appreciate all the help and ideas. This is such a awsome site and saves people a bunch of money...... Thnaks again everyone.

IF IT WONT START ON STARTING FLUID YOU HAVE SOME OTHER PROBLEM AS ANYTHING YOU PUT IN THE INTAKE GOES STRAIGHT TO THE CYLINDER. I WOULD START WIHT A NEW STARTER. AS FOR WD-40 ITS THE BEST STARTING FLUID YOU CAN USE. WHEN YOU USE ANYTHING MORE FLAMIBLE AND YOU HEAR THE KNOCKING WHAT YOU ARE REALY HEARING IS YOUR CYLINDERS FIRING BEFORE TDC.

Just a short note from up here in Canada where it can be a challenge to get a 6.2 started on a cold winter day (40 below). One of the things that comes to mind when I was reading of your starting problem is the question of the condition of your engine. If you have acess to a compression tester that is designed for the 6.2 - a regular gas one won't work because the gauge doesn't go high enough, you can check the compression in the cylinders after the engine is warmed up. A cold test isn't as accurate. If the readings are below 400 lbs., then the rings or valves are in poor shape and the engine isn't developing enough compression to ignite the diesel/air mixture when it is injected into the cylinder. Another quick method to tell what shape the engine is in is to take off the oilfiller cap after the engine is warmed up. If it is blowing smoke rings, the the rings or valves are poor. In your case , first we have to get the darn thing started. Good luck.

Sounds like who ever hooked up that bypass line screwed it up for you (as usuall for people who run "bypass lines")

1982 glow plugs are all "fast glow" style. Slow glow style was used 78-79. Fast glow ones use 6 volts, slow uses 12 volts. You say you have 12 volts to the plugs. Something is not right there - and when you mentioned there is a bypass line - it all fits together then! Slow glow are on 5.7's only, so chances are you simply are giving the plugs too much voltage and cooked them

You should check the resistance of the plugs:
slowglow should be 1.8 Ohms, fastglow should be 0.8. They are considered OKAY if they are 1-2 (slow) or <1 (fast). If they are near or at infinity, they are shot.

There are 6 (really 7) glow plug systems on GM diesels. I am not going over them though. You should check the plugs though and make sure your system is all the same system.
All 6.2/6.5 should have a 1/4" spade and stamped "9G".

--Also, if your rig has been sitting for 2 years, sounds like you should also get some new batteries (two Group 31 truck batteries, stud type (NOT post - they suck) and 2/0 cables with nice connections coated with conductive grease - will spin the 6.2 VERY nicely, and fires them up RIGHT AWAY (even when cold - no cranking - just fires right up (after glow plugs, of course))

And yes, WD40 or any other distilate/flamable fluid (other than gasoline) is okay, and I would not use ether - that stuff is wicked and can ignite way before you would want it too and mess up the engine (not to mention how it removes all lubrication)
Another method is to simply use a propane torch - like the kind for working copper pipes - and heat the air going into the engine. I always carry one behind the seat :)Edited by: mebonty

Symptoms are loss of fuel prime - check the mechanical lift pump - passenger-side lower front of engine.


Check for leaks thru the filter system.


And - use WD-40 for starting fluid when necessary - ether can ignite-flash back when intake valve opens on white-hot heated glow plugs

I think your problem is that you don't have any fuel in your filter. When I replace my Stanadyne fuel filter I fill it with fuel before I install it on the housing. That means I have to dismount the filter housing so I can turn it over so the fuel doesn't spill out of the filter when I install the filter. By doing this I have never had a problem with starting. I learned this method after my filter plugged up from bad fuel on a trip. The engine would not start until I did the above. I had a clean empty jug so I bought a 1/2 gal. of diesel from a nearby station (We were in a K-Mart parking lot in Boise, Idaho). It wasn't the easiest job using the jug, but I got it filled. At home I use a funnel made from a small inline fuel filter.