Nobody at Diablo called me back so I decided to place a phone call (with a little help from a DP member).

Basically I was told that my TTT mirrors "are likely" causing my issue and to try programming it with them unplugged -:t (and I thought pulling fuses every time was a PITA).

The funny thing is I was told that if it no-starts again.........call the Tech Support line. The tech support line has limited hours and the gentleman at Diablo said the wait time is generally 20 minutes :wtf:. Talk about a :nutkick:, not only is my truck not starting but I get to wait. I would think they would have a "hotline" for those with repeat issues.

I would think if they have that high a wait time that often (for him to say that), they should have more techs :duh:

His words are that they are always REALLY busy answering calls (is there that much of a problem with their products :rolleyes: ).


Also do TTT mirrors "communicate" when not in use? I don't have the marker lights or blinkers, just power and heat. He said they are probably communicating and drawing power........

The problem is I have a truck pull tomorrow night and need my truck to pull and tow another truck, so do I chance trying it tonight (and possibly missing pulling both), try it over the weekend and get F'd if it doesn't work as the tech line is vacant, or wait? I guess I'll wait (it just sucks not knowing).

I REALLY doubt that the TTT mirrors are causing you problems.

Sounds kind of fishy to me as well, how in the world would the mirrors be causing a problem???

Well the theory is that the mirrors are communicating on the data line and causing problems but I am pretty sure they don't communicate on the data line.

I just cleared the TAPS on my TTT mirrors with the Tech II because everything looked fuzzy in them. Cleared it right up and I gained 10 MPG too since they told the ECM about the extra 6th gear and enabled it for me.

LMFAO. Tell the idiots at Diasloblo that it is either the solar flares or the split bit diflux-inverter is causing the problem because the mirror excuse can't be anymore idiotic. :lol:

Have you tried a different Predator unit?

Drop me an email and I'll tell you who to contact.

I have both the Predator and the TTT mirrors. No problems with either.

send it back

thats redonkulous.

the mirrors are controlled by the DDM and PDM. The DDM and PDM communicate on the data bus; the mirrors do not directly commmunicate on the data bus.

Have you tried a different Predator unit?

Drop me an email and I'll tell you who to contact.


No, they don't want to go that route (at least not yet, or at least not Dan). I should clarify too, that the issue with the TTT mirrors isn't so much that they are communicating on the "bus" but that they might be drawing power (if they are trying to communicate with anything). Supposedly the Predator needs to see 12V or greater (his words) and if the mirrors are doing anything (which I can't see how they would just sitting there......trust me, I'm not touching anything when I do this) that they might draw enough power to throw the predator off.

I guess I have a few ???'s though. When the truck is not running, what is battery voltage? I thought 12 in a perfect world, but usually a little under (which will all the dash lights on and behind the scenes stuff, would cause it to go even lower while your trying to program).

John you mentioned in your voicemail to make sure my ignition is "really on", just so I know what you are talking about....what are you talking about ;) .

I know I make sure to turn the key to "on" and not start by making sure the lights and buzzers come on. When I have the issue, I turned the key on and off multiple times (not while programming of course) and I'm assuming I would have gotten it right (if I was doing it wrong) even by accident. The time I disconnected by batteries, etc. etc. I know I must have cycled the ignition 25-30 times.

I was hoping they would just send a new unit and I would send this one back, but they want me to troubleshoot first.

Here are some more questions, even though I don't have Onstar, is there a spot in the panel that I can check and pull fuses just to be sure.

The odd thing is when it works it works (program multiple times, switching tunes, checking codes, altering top MPH, etc.) and when it doesn't work, it doesn't work.

I bought their recommended AC to DC power supply tonight from RadioShack, if it happens again I will try to use that with an extension cord and hopefully that will eliminate low voltage from the vehicle as a source. The funny thing is, after trying it MANY, MANY times and at certain points (not while programming) making the windows go up and down and locking doors, etc. the voltage should have continually gotten lower, but all of a sudden it works.

The only thing that makes sense though is voltage vs. temp. Does battery voltage go up when hot and down with cold (i.e. slow starters in Winter)? The reason I say this is because when I've had issues, it's been cooler (not cold by any means though) and when it's worked, it's been HOT. Maybe I'm just grasping at straws now.....

Well I am not going to try anything until Monday as I have to many things that I need the truck for before then.

I would tell those SOBs to send me a new or they can cram there tuner where the sun don't shine and I will go get a PPE. What happens when your on the road and break down and have to go to the stealer and this happens, you sit there for a few days until it works?

What happens when your on the road and break down and have to go to the stealer and this happens, you sit there for a few days until it works?

Yes. We still haven't ruled out the possibility of it being my truck or even user error (but I've been on the phone with people when it's happened and it still wouldn't work even getting walked step by step through it).

Hopefully this week I will be able to do some more "testing". My girlfriend has offered to cart my a$$ around if needed.