: By-pass oil Filter + Fuel Filter
snakebite4767 05-23-2004, 09:37 AM I added a FRANTZ by-pass oil filter and a FRANTZ full-flow fuel filter to my Duramax. Both work great. The oil filter was a snap to install. I made a small plate that bolted into the holes where the second alternator goes. (10mm X 1.5) Then just bolted the FRANTZ mounting bracked to the plate. The supply line screwed into an adapter that goes under the OEM filter, and the return goes into the fill tube through an adapter. VERY SIMPLE. I will still change oil every 5K, it just won't be as black.
The fuel filter was also easy to install since I use a combination tool box/aux fuel tank that I have dump into the fill spout of the main tank. I just put the FRANTZ in line. No more worry about dirty fuel.
TC Dmax 05-23-2004, 10:44 AM Sounds like you have all the bases covered now.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif Are the filters on the oil bypass compatible/interchangeable with say a Baldwin or Donaldson filter or is there one specific to the unit made by (Frantz)? I like the idea of returning oil through the filler pipe and not having to lose the Fumoto valve at the drain pan. Who sells these units?
Any pics of the units installed??
Edited by: TC Dmax
snakebite4767 05-23-2004, 11:31 AM http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Mikes_014.jpgTC;
The filters are available every where..it uses a roll of 500 sheet toilet paper t filter down to 1/2 micron! Use the industrial type paper, or you can order special toilet paper rolls from "We Filter It".
http://www.wefilterit.com/products.htm
This is the company that was big back in the 60's. They sold out, and when the patent expired they re-applied and are now back in business. Each kit comes with plenty of fittings, clamps, and hose to do the job. No running to the auto parts store for parts...except that you must have a 1 1/2" socket to install the adapter under the OEM full flow filter. Another great thing about using this filter is that there are no modifications to the system that could cause some hard-nose to refuse warranty work. This is also true in the case of the fuel filter. By using a transfer type arraingement and filtering the transfered fuel, there is again, no warranty concernes, and I don't know any fuel filter that fillters any better than this one.Edited by: snakebite4767
VaderDmax 05-23-2004, 12:52 PM <DIV>Doug</DIV>
<DIV>I will be waiting for some Oil Analysis on your Oil bypass system. I can remember an Uncle back in the Fiftys using that type of oil filters</DIV>
<DIV>on his car. It ran forever!!</DIV>
TC Dmax 05-23-2004, 04:01 PM snakebite4767
Thanks for the pics. Great looking job you did with the install.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gifWould this unit be suitable for mounting under the truck somewhere, as I've used the 2'nd alt position already for my Racor setup? Judging by the scale of the picture the unit looks to be a bit larger than say a roll of toilet paper http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif Is that the half or full size unit you used and what sort of mileage do you expect between filter changes? Having all the parts included with the kit is a bonus in my books. Nothing more frustrating then having to run out on a Saturday afternoon hunting down partshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif
2fast2 05-23-2004, 04:16 PM I find it hard to believe that a roll of toilet paper is superior filtration media. Considering it is supposed to disintegrate readily to avoid clogging septic and sewer lines, I wouldn't think it would be happy to hold up to the temperatures and pressures of motor oil in an internal combustion engine. I'm a skeptic.
Oil analysis will be the proof.
Good luck.
hdmax 05-23-2004, 05:39 PM I find it hard to believe that a roll of toilet paper is superior filtration media. Considering it is supposed to disintegrate readily to avoid clogging septic and sewer lines, I wouldn't think it would be happy to hold up to the temperatures and pressures of motor oil in an internal combustion engine. I'm a skeptic.
Oil analysis will be the proof.
Good luck.
Not to mention, I have never seen a roll of $hit house paper that didn`t produce tons of dust.
I`ll just stick with my Amway (I mean Amsoil) Dual by pass oil filter. It may not be the best, but at least it won`t end up in the $hiterhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif
snakebite4767 05-23-2004, 05:43 PM The unit could easily be mounted on the frame under driver. These filters have been around for years. My dad put 300K on his old 57 Ford using one of these filters, and my 51 Chevy had one on it. It use to be great fun showing everyone how clean the oil was. I think that they have long since been proved effective. The biggest reason that they are not seen more often is that they have not been produced for quite a while, and, it is simpler to unscrew a twist on filter and replace it. However, NO spin-on that I know of will filter as tight as this one. I was told NOT to use the soft-cushy TP. They suggested to either buy from them, or to use the industrial TP...the John Wayne toilet paper....rougher that hell and won't take crap off anyone! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gifI sure wouldn't put one on my new truck if I didn't have confidence in it, and I sure wouldn't want anyone to get one on my recomendation. Fact is, I just don't care if anyone else uses them or not. I used one way back when, and am glad to see them back in production. One thing to remember is that all the oil STILL goes through the OEM filter. This is a by-pass filter that shunts oil through it. The oil pressure did not change. All I'll say is that my oil sure looks clean, and I like that. I'll change the roll of TP every 2.5 K, and then add enough oil to bring it back to the top. I got 12 rolls when I bought the units. The unit shown is a full size unit.
rmjdmax 05-23-2004, 11:27 PM Just a note to your skeptics. Take a square of TP and place a drop of water in the center. Then gently pull the edges. Repeat using a drop of oil and gently pull. You will find that the oil strengthens the paper. I have driven thousands of miles between 1964 and current. I removed a Frantz from my 88 gaser that is going on my son's GMC. If I had known when I purchased my Dmax they were available, It would have had a frantz. I am considering replacing the Amsoil bypass with the frantz. Being up top, It will be easer to change etc.
There were several reports in the 70's using the Frantz as f fuel filter. I do not have AUX tank, but If I can figure out how, I may try as a secondary fuel filter.
Thanks for the pictures.
Edited by: rmjdmax
BigdaddyG 05-24-2004, 01:03 AM How about some pic's of the fuel set up! I am especially interestd in how you attach to the fill pipe.
snakebite4767 05-24-2004, 01:44 AM BigdaddyG;
I can't get any photos of the fill neck connection without pulling it apart, but I'll talk you through it.
The fill neck comes out pretty easily. Take the three screws out from the outside at the fill door. Slide under the truck and you will see how to disconnect the fill tube from the tank. There is a inside tube, and a outside (overtube) that drains back into the tank. there will also be a ground strap connected to the fill neck to elliminate static. You will have to cut the ground strap, and reconnect it when you put it all back together. Once I had the fill tube out I drilled a hole about two inches down from the mouth. There were already some small overflow holes there. I made the hole just large enough to accept a piece of copper tube that I bent at a 90 degree angle. on one end of the tube I brazed a hose connection. The other end I slipped into the hole and brazed it to the fill neck. Don't let it stick inside or it will interfer with the fill nozzle at the pump. (although I don't fill that way anymore) Keep it flush with the inside. I then put everything back together, hooked a fuel hose to the new fitting and ran it up into the bed of the truck. I have a 50 gal combination tank/toolbox that I got at the Pickem-up truck store. I hooked this hose to the output of a FRANTZ diesel fuel filter, which is the same as the oil filter except with different size orfices. The input of the filter goes to a small fuel pump. The input of the pump goes to an electric valve which goes to the fuel tank. The electric valve is to make sure that when I turn off the pump it does not continue to siphon. I mounted the switch in a blank panel to the left of the steering wheel, by the dome light overide. I used a switch with a large lighted lever to keep me aware that the transfer pump is on. It takes a while to fill the main tank, but it really doesn't matter while you are heading down the road. You could get fancy with the pump control, but this was cheap and easy, and this setup allows all the computer functions to work as designed. It will keep track of the fuel used, so you have a "psudo fuel gauge" for the aux tank. This arraingement does not break any of California's laws covering deisel. It would not be allowed for a gasser, without a return. Cheap, effective and easy. You gotta stop to pee with this arraingement before you need to refuel!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif
There is an outfit up by Sacramento or Davis, Transfer Flow, that sells a Fuel neck that is already modified. If fact, you can get the whole auxillary system there for about (4) four times what I have invested in mine. With the $1500 saved, I can fill up the tank!!Edited by: snakebite4767
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