I had 305/75/16's on a 2001 2500HD 4x4 and was told when I ordered the 315 from tirepackage.com that the 315's would fit with only slight scrubbing in the front. He was way wrong. What is the best way to get 1-2 inches of lift in the front?

Start here:

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91242

Then here:

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthr...ft+kit+summary

Then here:

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78895

Then here:

http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88110

Try this. Turn the bars up, almost all the way. You could go all the way but my truck didn't need it. Look under the wheel well at where they contact the plastic liner and trim. I put 1" blocks in the rear just to have some rake to the truck. My 315's fit now. If you want look at nar's sig and see what he did. I did the same mod to mine.

The point of minumum clearance is the outside of the tire on the aft rear portion of the fender well when you have the steering wheel turned about 3/4travel. Also, the front outside of the tire gets awfully close to the outside portion of the bumper air dam when the wheels are turned.

You can install K1500 keys from a tahoe or 1500 4x4 truck and get 2-3 inch,s of lift without having toy crack the bolts all the way and kill your ride quality

You can install K1500 keys from a tahoe or 1500 4x4 truck and get 2-3 inch,s of lift without having toy crack the bolts all the way and kill your ride quality
Sweet here we go again. Doing this is the EXACT same thing as turning up the purple keys all the way. The green keys just re-index like a ratchet and give you a higher starting point as to get more lift out. But Either way, the same amount of lift with give the same affect on your ride.

The ride quality is reduced as you crank the t-bars above approx 2" of lift, and becomes progressively worse the more you raise the nose above approx 2" regardless of the type of keys being used.

Cranking the t-bars does not increase the tensionor load on them, but as the nose is raised and the angle of the lower a-arm is increased, the moment on the torsion bar is shortened so the ride becomes more "jouncy".

Of course, a lift kit resolves all that, in addition to providing proper clearance on the tires.................

Of course, a lift kit resolves all that, in addition to providing proper clearance on the tires.................
Now now, who's to say my clearance isn't proper?;) My clearance might be offended that you said that, as he told me he got plenty of room for 315's and he didn't need no help. Sorry, my clearance is kind of proud of himself.):h

LOL!!

There are so many less issues with a lift kit. CV angles are fine, tie rod angles are fine, you get greater tire clearance, the truck aligns to factory specs, you don't have to cut your fenders, etc.

There are only two real downsides to a lift, the first being cost. Most lifts also stick the t-bars under the frame, but that is solved with Realift t-bar relocators. I think the real issue for most is cost, especially if you can't install the lift yourself.

You're absolutely right. I just like the look of a stock height truck better, and I don't want to spend the money. However, you've got one of the best looking lifted trucks i've seen.

Mine hardly looks lifted. However, if GM would have just made the wheel wells a little bigger, we wouldn't even need to think about a lift to run 35s. Then again, they'd have to make real HD steering components and wheel bearings as well.............