Hello this is a Belgium Blazer driver in NEED.


I have a few questions for my 6.2l military 4x4 blazer from 84,and 127000 miles.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif


It always ran fine even towing a 1t trailer, it needed between 12-15l fuel a 100 kilometers and +- 1l engine oil each 7000 km , 1 liter cooling fluid each 10000 kilometerhttp://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big%20Smile.gif.


When i installed a total rebuilt tranny and it stud still 3 mounths the problem started.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif


It started like ussually but when it becames on working temperature it lost power even stops turning when i pushed the brakes and turned the steering wheel.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif


I changed the the fuel filterbox,checked the engine compression 37.5 kg/cm at each cilinder , lift pump pressure 5psi and glow plugs replacing.


I loocked for leakings and found nothing.


Drained the tank and no water.


But now when i starting the thing it is only turning 2 seconds like normally and than stops or when i push the pedal fully down it smokes like hell bleu and turning if it is not stopping at a max rmp of +- 1000/min whit a serioes smell of not burned fuel.


So my question is can somebody help out of this hell because it is very difficault to find her in belgium specialised people.


thanks in front peeters.sven@skynet.be

I'm new to the forum, and by no means an expert. Have owned my 1982 6.2L "J" code truck for three years now, and had a similar problem. I can't give the technical answer I'm sure those with much more expertise have here. But I think you will find your problem is somewhere in the "Hydro-Boost" system that runs both your power steering and brakes. I may be off base here, and not wanting to send you on a goose chase, but start by checking the fluid level in the master cylinder. That could give you a clue until someone else has some more specific info for you.

Hello in Belgium


Is your engine "C" with EGR and EPR, or "J" without?


Symptoms are of dirty air filter, or wet (water soaked) air filter, or intake ducting blockage.


Perhaps mechanics left shop rags in intake system after finishing transmission installation.


Perhaps nesting birds or animals caused intake duct blockage.


Remove air filter cover, check down inside intake plenum for anything that can block air flow.


Cover open air filter housing with window screen, or suitable, see if engine will crank and run.

Hello, again


So - no intake blockage, still doesn't run well.


1st - what are ambient temperatures in Belgium, now? We are seeing 85-90deg F, here in Texas.


Cold weather requires fully functional glow system. You may need to cycle ignition switch several glow cycles to get combustion temps up enough to run well.


2nd - fuel quality will cause same symptoms - hard start, white vapors, no power, stalling.


If original fuel was poured back into tank, you may need to add some Cetane improver.


3rd - if above checks ok, could be cold advance is stuck\faulty. HPCA, Housing Pressure Cold Advance, connector is on passenger-side of inj pump.


Ignition switch on, remove connector, then re-touch it to the inj pump terminal - if the HPCA Solenoid is good, you should hear a 'click' each time you touch them together.


If not, the HPCA Temperature Switch is on passenger-side head, just past the rear exhaust port.


To test it, remove harness connector, measure the two switch terminals with an ohmmeter. The switch should be closed when coolant temperature is below 85-95deg F, must read zero ohms.


If switch is open, place wire jumper between the two terminals in harness connector, then, with Ignition switch on, touch HPCA connector to the Solenoid - it should now 'click' when Ignition switch is on.


If so, leave connector on Solenoid terminal, cycle glow plugs, try starting engine.


Edited by: gmctd

hay there,


now the temp here is like running arround in t-shirt but not yet swimming time.


It is +-18C normal human body temp is 37C I don't now the F degrees we do not use them.


BBBBBBBut I didn't get a nice clik clik whit the sol. witch is also suplied the fast idle sol. so I removed the top of the return reservoir and saw that the nipple with the little valve in witch was a little bit blocked on the outer side .


So I cleaned this one and tomorrow I gonna rebuilt this little thing I think it causes over pressure in the top of the injection pump.


Allléééééééééé I hope SOhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif


greatings sven from Belgium

JOEPIJAYJEEEEE,


problem away ,happy again ,and it was a very little sh*tti thing wich delivered me 5 days of looking and shouting agains the blazer but it is solved.


So for every body who has this symptones of loosing power en smoke and stop running and idle slow .


Solution check the little nipple on top of your injection pump where the return flexibel is fixed on.


It is a little pipe with a little glas or plastic ball in it wich was blocked or cutting the return to the tank off little by little till it is blocked loosing power, no idle ,smoke and a little smell of diesel caused by leek on the side of the cable handle.


So I hope that sombody could use this information when they have the same prob's.


Greating from Belgium near Brussels(jean claude van dammes area) W-europe.


peeters.sven@skynet.be alias blazer 84