YZF1R
05-21-2004, 05:32 PM
Well, everything works as advertised. Very nice kit. Wiring, top of the line hose clamps, connectors, etc., etc. All the usual Kennedy Diesel details. All items were mounted in the same places as John recommends or as shown in the pictures he sent me. Truck does seem to start a little faster and idle smoother. Time will tell if anything else but I’m sure it can do nothing but good to have it on there. VERY nice to push a button to prime fuel filters. (Changed those out also.) Key must be "ON" to use manual primer.
Things I added - 10 amp inline fuse for pump power. 3 amp add a circuit fuse for control power. All connections soldered and shrink wrapped.
Some things to think about when installing - I used the 15 amp glow plug/intake heater fuse for switched control power, adding the add a circuit fuse holder. Note: When standing on the drivers side looking into the fuse box at that fuse, the terminal on the left side of the fuse is the hot side. The wire for the add a circuit fuse holder comes out toward the rear of the truck in this position. If it is installed the other way, the power for the added fuse will go straight out that leg and not through the fuse. The reason I’m saying this is so you don’t have to remove the 15 amp fuse and turn on the key to check which side is hot. As I figured, when I did this it tripped the SES lamp because the computer saw that the circuit was not working. No real big deal though as the light went out after several key ons’ with the fuse back in. Also, don’t forget a ¼ to ½ inch bushing to install the oil pressure sender in the top most plug on the oil filter housing. There are 3 to choose from of different sizes. I used this one as that is the one John recommended. Probably as that is the one most out of harms way for the sender. The fuel lines - Make sure you get the deep ½ inch quick disconnect as someone mentioned the short ones won’t work. These were not easy to remove. Once you do get them though the line just comes off like nothing. I understand how they work and what to do to remove them but it was still a pain in the butt. I did not drop the tank, but did bend the shield down out of the way. It is not real easy to get your hands up in there to put the new line on. I would not try with just one hand, pushing on the fuel hose to get it over the lip on the fuel sender. It’s plastic and if you snap it off.............(200 plus dollars I hear, and dropping the tank). Also, I would highly recommend getting the rear of the truck off the ground (using jack stands) as I really needed this extra room. As it was, my chin was against the drive shaft and an exhaust hanger was sticking in the back of my neck.
I wanted to get the hardest done first, so I did the pump and lines followed by the oil pressure sender and then electrical. Can you do this? Yes, but it was not a lot of fun. (Fuel line.) Lowering the tank or having the truck on a lift would probably make this a lot easier. You could make it much easier by just cutting the fuel line but I thought I had better go right to the tank as John recommends. If I cut the line instead, I would be forever wondering if the stupid O-rings in the quick connects were leaking with age and if I were sucking air.
Overall, a very nice set up and I’m pleased I have it in.
Steve Edited by: YZF1R
Things I added - 10 amp inline fuse for pump power. 3 amp add a circuit fuse for control power. All connections soldered and shrink wrapped.
Some things to think about when installing - I used the 15 amp glow plug/intake heater fuse for switched control power, adding the add a circuit fuse holder. Note: When standing on the drivers side looking into the fuse box at that fuse, the terminal on the left side of the fuse is the hot side. The wire for the add a circuit fuse holder comes out toward the rear of the truck in this position. If it is installed the other way, the power for the added fuse will go straight out that leg and not through the fuse. The reason I’m saying this is so you don’t have to remove the 15 amp fuse and turn on the key to check which side is hot. As I figured, when I did this it tripped the SES lamp because the computer saw that the circuit was not working. No real big deal though as the light went out after several key ons’ with the fuse back in. Also, don’t forget a ¼ to ½ inch bushing to install the oil pressure sender in the top most plug on the oil filter housing. There are 3 to choose from of different sizes. I used this one as that is the one John recommended. Probably as that is the one most out of harms way for the sender. The fuel lines - Make sure you get the deep ½ inch quick disconnect as someone mentioned the short ones won’t work. These were not easy to remove. Once you do get them though the line just comes off like nothing. I understand how they work and what to do to remove them but it was still a pain in the butt. I did not drop the tank, but did bend the shield down out of the way. It is not real easy to get your hands up in there to put the new line on. I would not try with just one hand, pushing on the fuel hose to get it over the lip on the fuel sender. It’s plastic and if you snap it off.............(200 plus dollars I hear, and dropping the tank). Also, I would highly recommend getting the rear of the truck off the ground (using jack stands) as I really needed this extra room. As it was, my chin was against the drive shaft and an exhaust hanger was sticking in the back of my neck.
I wanted to get the hardest done first, so I did the pump and lines followed by the oil pressure sender and then electrical. Can you do this? Yes, but it was not a lot of fun. (Fuel line.) Lowering the tank or having the truck on a lift would probably make this a lot easier. You could make it much easier by just cutting the fuel line but I thought I had better go right to the tank as John recommends. If I cut the line instead, I would be forever wondering if the stupid O-rings in the quick connects were leaking with age and if I were sucking air.
Overall, a very nice set up and I’m pleased I have it in.
Steve Edited by: YZF1R