Theres a product from JL Audio that keeps the stock Head Unit but does its own signal processing and allows amp connections etc. Supposed to sound really really nice. I'm thinking of giving it a shot. Having the stock Head Unit is a good way to deter theft.

Here is the link for those interested http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansweep_pages.php?page_id=94

you can get much better sound and have an easier installation for about one billionth of the price....PAC AOEM-GM24 ;)

the clean sweep is a huge waste of money IMHO. There is no substitute for a pure clean signal that was not touched by any factory EQ/DSP in the first place. The PAC adapter gets this pure clean untouched signal right at the head unit. The JL Clean Sweep takes the Bose signal and "tries" to fix it/unequalize it. It doesnt work very well no matter what they want you to beleive. You can not get something for nothing. Garbage in, garbage out. :)

Ben

That PAC AOEM-GM24 thing seems like its only good for adding an amp. And it doesnt do anything to the signal from the HU. Thats the problem. The GM Head Unit is a huge piece of ****. BUT if I use an external amp to drive the spearks and sub I guess it would be fine as the factory HU amp is not being used. Hmmm.

The GM Head Unit is a huge piece of ****.

no its not IMO. Everyone thinks it is because they tap into the speaker wires with a 15 dollar Wal Mart LOC and it sounds like crap.

Its because they are tapping into a signal that has been "Boseified" and anything non-bose (aftermarket stuff) will sound terrible when its getting a signal thats meant for Bose speakers. The PAC AOEM-GM24 gets the signal right as it comes out of the head unit. There is nothing wrong with this signal that comes out of the factory head unit. It does not have any equalizing or bass roll off at high volumes. It is linear and about as "untouched" as you'll get as far as signals from ANY car company's stock head units. The signal coming out of the head unit doesnt need anything done to it because it is flat and unequalized, like a signal coming out of a head unit should be.

FYI the factory bose head units do not have an amp in them. The amp is under the center console. (well, all the head units have an amp in them, but if they are programmed for Bose, the head unit's internal junk Delco amp is switched off and completely bypassed because it is not needed. Radios programmed for non-bose use the internal head unit amp. If you hook up a PAC AOEM-GM24 to non-bose head units, it wont sound as good because the bass is rolled off at high volumes. All you need to do is reprogram the head unit for BOSE and you'll then get the clean untouched unamped signal)

ben

Ahhh see I don't have the BOSE radio :( or at least I don't think I do. I just have the Stock CD player HU and 2 speakers in back door, and 2 speakers in front door with tweeters.

so I purchased a JL 300/4 amp and JL XR650csi Components and I'm getting a JL 10W3v3 sub. My main thing right now though is what to do with my source. I have a aftermarket Kenwood unit that I can use or I can do something with my stock head unit.

I would use a PAC AOEM-GM24, and go to the dealer and have them program the radio with TIS/Tech 2 for "UQ7 WITHOUT Y91/Y92".

That will net the best sound out of the factory head unit :)

good luck, let us know how it turns out.

ben

Alright, will give that a try. BTW, can that UQ7 without Y91/Y92 be down with a HP Tuner or some software or does it have to be done at dealer?

Hey, sorry not trying to steal your thread but do you have to reprogram the head unit if adding subs only to the truck? Anyone know how it will sound? I ordered 2 10's for my crew cab.:ro)

Azzkicker... You gotta post and say how it goes..... By the way I was looking and you can get the "pac" at Best Buy or most stereo shops.

Excellent. I was hoping not to have to order it online. My components were supposed to come in Friday but when I checked on FedEX it was changed to monday :( booo hooo. But I'll start the amp and sub install this weekend. I'm not going to worry about the seat not folding down. I'll fit the sub under the 40 part of the 40/60 split rear bench and at least I can have the other 60 fold down.

All the factory Head Units are crap. If you want pure sound you have to buy good equipment.-:t

Where are you putting your subs at? I just today got my box in the mail for under the rear seat. Looks pretty good it can only hold 10's but I can still use the area behind the rear seat.

If you want PM me your email and I can send you pics. Nice box. :ro)

What would be the easiest way to add a 4 channel amplifier for new door speakers and a 2 channel for a pair of subs???

Use one of the adapters posted here that have RCA outs. Then you just plug amp to them.

I dont think I'm even going to plug in the rear door speakers. Front components and a 10" sub is all I'm putting in. I'm kind of worried though. This is my first Crew Cab and I may need more speakers and 2 10"s to fill up cab space.

would you just run more than one set of adapters or what? the adapters only give to sets of outputs and you would need three right?

would you just run more than one set of adapters or what? the adapters only give to sets of outputs and you would need three right?


No, because I'm running the 2 components and Sub off a 4 channel amp.

so I only need one set of RCA outputs for the one amp.

All the factory Head Units are crap. If you want pure sound you have to buy good equipment.-:t

Think what you will, I've heard factory set-ups that blow away many aftermarket 'high-end' equipment set-ups.

I prefer the integrated look of the factory system myself, and there are several very cost effective means of getting GREAT sound quality without spending $$$ on a 'high-end' HU...

Alright, how would you go about it and run 4 speakers and subs. There is no way I am going to run only front speakers.

Alright, how would you go about it and run 4 speakers and subs. There is no way I am going to run only front speakers.

I might be wrong but you can buy one of these "pac" units that basically tap into the speaker system and give you RCA put outs. There for you can run a amp for bass. So then leave the highs alone and add subs. If you want to add power to the highs you would need a second "pac" or run a spliter off the bass "pac" unit RCA jacks. :clap:

That is how I'd guess it works.

Think what you will, I've heard factory set-ups that blow away many aftermarket 'high-end' equipment set-ups.

I prefer the integrated look of the factory system myself, and there are several very cost effective means of getting GREAT sound quality without spending $$$ on a 'high-end' HU...


Amps and speakers only reproduce what the head unit supplies. I've never heard a factory unit that compares to a upper end head. Don't be confused just because of a name brand people think it has to be high end equipment. Most all of the manufactures build cheap units too. You have to pay for good stuff and it does blow away the factory crap. BTW, I don't consider this junk from Wal-Mart to be "High End".

In regards to the stock system (I don't have the BOSE); I have had Sony and Alpine Head Units in past vehicles, and while the sound is much better I think (actually it's more from tunability) I just don't have the money to fork over for adapters to keep my steering wheel audio controls/chimes right now. I am running a cheap Line out converter to my old amp and two alpine 10's and it sounds OK, just wish I had sub volume control and everything my old alpine Head Unit had. In the future I'll be upgrading to a good aftermarket setup but for just adding some bass to the stock system my setup is OK.

Jason

you can get much better sound and have an easier installation for about one billionth of the price....PAC AOEM-GM24 ;)

the clean sweep is a huge waste of money IMHO. There is no substitute for a pure clean signal that was not touched by any factory EQ/DSP in the first place. The PAC adapter gets this pure clean untouched signal right at the head unit. The JL Clean Sweep takes the Bose signal and "tries" to fix it/unequalize it. It doesnt work very well no matter what they want you to beleive. You can not get something for nothing. Garbage in, garbage out. :)

Ben

Wow Glad I did not read this before I built the system in my wifes 300c. I sure it would not have won as many awards has it has if I had KNOW it was a waste of money.
Not to start a flame war, but do you have or used the clean sweep?

I might be wrong but you can buy one of these "pac" units that basically tap into the speaker system and give you RCA put outs. There for you can run a amp for bass.

thats called an LOC, or line output converter. Theyre alright, but not the greatest because you are limitied with what sound/signal was being fed to the factory stock speakers. "PAC" is a company that makes LOC's as well as other adapters.

You do not want to use an LOC with bose systems. Use a PAC AOEM-GM24. It is the same price and will sound 10x better IMO....

Wow Glad I did not read this before I built the system in my wifes 300c. I sure it would not have won as many awards has it has if I had KNOW it was a waste of money.
Not to start a flame war, but do you have or used the clean sweep?

no. Ive never even seen one, so I guess I should shut up.

Here is my own humble oppinion of it tho: it just kinda sucks in concept. Think about it. Factory speakers are junk. In order to prevent distortion and make them sound alright, most factory head units need to have huge amounts of equalization, and large curves to the spectrum in different freq ranges to keep the factory junk speakers sounding ok. As you turn the volume up, they roll off bass, and do all sorts of other stuff that you dont want when you have aftermarket amps/speakers that can handle a fullrange flat audio signal, which is the best signal to start with if you want HIGH sound quality. You need a flat transient response form the speakers. Studio monitors and all other pro-speakers all work with a perfectly flat signal because it is pure. You cant get this with any signal that is being received from a factory radio by factory speakers. Bose especially is HUGELY notorious for screwing around with signals. Thats how they make the speakers sound "as good as they do". (note I put that in quotes, I say that because with how cheap the bose drivers are, and how low their power ratings are, they "shouldnt" even produce the 'decent' sound that they do) Its all about psychoacoustics. Messing around with the signal so much and curving it in such a way that it fools your ears into thinking they are hearing good sound, when in reality it is so far from a flat signal that it would be considered garbage by any person who is anal about high end audio. (no, i am not a high end anal audio person, I enjoy a 'good' sounding balanced stereo, but I dont spend hours with test CD's to see if a systems speakers are 'tonally balanced' or junk like that)

so basically what the CLean sweep tries to do is take this hosed signal and turn it into something flat and good. Sure, I bet it works to a point and sounds decent, but you will NEVER EVER get that pure 100% flat audio signal back. Its just the way it works...you cant get something for nothing. You cant take a 20$ bill into a bank and have them exchange it for a 100$ bill. The Clean Sweep probably fixes it enough to sound good to most people. But for 450 dollars or however much it costs??? No thanks IMO...for 450 dollars you could buy a VERY nice aftermarket head unit that will actually give you pure clean sound to start with. If it was 100, MAYBE Id give it a look. But for what you get (JL's rendition of what the audio signal "MIGHT" look like if it were clean and pure from the factory radio) I just couldnt see spending money on it.

Especially when for like 35 bucks you can get a PAC AOEM-GM24 adapter that actually gets the clean pure un-boseified audio out of the head unit...so basically on the factory bose systems it does what the Clean Sweep does, except better, and it costs a fraction of the price...

but again, thats JMO. What might work for one thing doesnt neccessarilly work with another. The 300C's audio system (I dunno did it come with Infinity from the factory, or just a basic Chrysler stereo?) is much simpler and easier for the Clean Sweept to try to correct than a Bose signal.

as for all the awards that it won, Im sure its worthy of the awards. No one has made a product like it before, and its awesome on paper and in concept, and for some applications, might be great in the real world as well....but IMO the people giving those awards are not the people who really are anal audio people. If they were, IMO they would just rip out everything factory and go 100% aftermarket..........

ben