Can anyone tell me how to turn up the torsion bars. The Dealer put 285/75/16 on and they rub pretty bad when I back up. My last 2500HD had the same tires and they didn't rub as bad. The dealer is too far away and I wanted to just spend the time and adjust them perfect myself. Thankshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Two bolts underneath in the crossmember where the torsion bars terminate.

Crank both sides an equal amount. Try three full turns first. It's easier if you use a breaker bar instead of a ratchet. They are interference threads so they're tight the whole time. Put some grease on the threads.Edited by: hoot

Don't forget to put a jack under the front end to take some weight off of the springs in order to make the tightening easier and reducing the chance of gaulling the threads of the adjusters. A short 4x4 beam works great across the two frame rails up front. Then, lower the truck, bounce the bumper up and down and remeasure. Adjust both sides to equal height until you get the height you desire.


Marc

Yes.... a jack helps alot.

And you will need an alignment afterwards.


I dont think you should need 3 full turns unless its a 4x2. Start with 1 1/2 and you might be able to avoid the alignment.


remember, only lift it as much as necessary to clear to keep the CV angles down. In fact, unless you Want it higher, maybe a little fender plastic trimming will do the trick...

I've got 7 turns in mine to get it level.

While we are at this subject, I am wondering where could I get a spacer for shocks in front ends? I cranked up four turns and it raised my front end appx. 1.5" to 2" above factory height. I might be getting an aftermarket shocks. Even though after some searching with some response saying that 1.5" to 2" would be fine without the spacers, I still don't like that idea. If I am going to spend the money on new shocks, I would want it to be done right at the best possible way to get the best result. Thanks. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Spacers are fine. You don't come anywhere near needing the full range of motion of your shock if you stay on the pavement.


Spacers are fine.

wxmn6, if you space the shock you may bottom the shock before the susp is fully compressed and you wont gain any down travel because of the A-arm stop

JMO but dont crank more than 1.5" to 2" of total lift max over stock ride hight. It dosnt matter were you measure from as long as its repeatable. Also I would recomend wrighting this down. I forgot what my factory hight is and if my springs sag or the like I am kinda SOL....I would then have to look it up in a factory manual or something....


I'm with Geo> JMO but you arnt gaining any extra downward travel regardless how much you crank. I dont think GM would put shocks on thier trucks that reach thier travel limit before the suspention doeshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif


One thing I always thought I would try if I cranked my truck way up and it "rode like crap" as some say a cranked truck does.....The factory bump stops are ment to rest on the a-arms. A torson bar has no progressiveness to it meaning the more you twist it it dosnt get harder to twist. Thats what the "bumpstops" are there for, to give your suspentoin a progressive spring rate. My theory on these hard riding cranked trucks is the a arms arnt on the bumpstops and they come crashing down on em and this gives it the harsh bouncy ride. So make sure your bumpstops are on the a arms either with spacers, less crank or maybe Timbrens might help??? Another thing to consider, I'll stop my rambling nowhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gifEdited by: ratlover

I dont think GM would put shocks on thier trucks that reach thier travel limit before the suspention doeshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif





That is exactly what GM did! And it causes premature shock failure in torsion lifted trucks.


And you make an excellent suggestion, either shimming the yellow jouce, or replacing with Timbrens, which are more easily shimmed. BTW, Timbren makes a softer spring, exactly the same otherwise, that can be substituted for the "plow" spring. I have had thoughts of trying it.

I already have a set of Timbrens in front to help with the weight of snowplow. So I guess I don't have to worry about anything except getting a new set of shocks. Thanks for your inputs. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

I dont think GM would put shocks on thier trucks that reach thier travel limit before the suspention doeshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif





That is exactly what GM did! And it causes premature shock failure in torsion lifted trucks.


And you make an excellent suggestion, either shimming the yellow jouce, or replacing with Timbrens, which are more easily shimmed. BTW, Timbren makes a softer spring, exactly the same otherwise, that can be substituted for the "plow" spring. I have had thoughts of trying it.

after installing green keys had new bottom shock brackets fabricated for the front that keeps the same configuration.but moves the shock eye hole up 1" higher and 1/2" offset to the center of the truck.no need to use shims on the stems of shock.shocks will not extend all the way before A- ARM hits the stop.

Shocks that dont cover the full travel of the suspention. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Dead.gif Why the hell use stops then??? The frigging shocks will do ithttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif


Anyway......I have the heavier Timbrens on my truck and I really couldnt tell any difference in unloaded ride. The truck still rides great. I bought em to help with my blade as well. Wish I woulda hooked up the blade without the timbrens first just too see how much they helped but I got em before my blade came in.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/D5A_jouncers2.png





I took a close look today. Mine has bilsteins and 2" lift. Put the jack under the crossmember, and lifted. The shock topped out out with only 1" of travel, and that is not enough, 2" of down travel needed at least. Became very clear why bilstein is having top out failures. So you guys running green keys, are running essentially topped out (using bilsteins). The upper stop still had over 1/2" of gap, that cannot be accessed because of shock travel limit. that is over 1" of wheel travel wasted. That definately explains the complaints. I noticed my top shock mounts have 3/4" of threads left on the top. Decided to shim it down using extra rubber grommets, instead of trying to manufacture a spacer for the bottom of the shock. Much improved ride! And the performance cornering is dramatic, the drooping wheel keeps traction longer with the extra travel. The bilsteins (and stocks) either need to be lengthened as suggested, or use something else on the front, like the 9000 with the extra length.


Next I did a mod on the stock jouncers, shaved them, to make them more progressive, more of a spring, less of a stop. This provides a nice transition in the lifted configuration. I think this would be a very good mod for non-lifted trucks also. Before I think I could feel when the jouncer contacted the a-arm on compression, no more. This only smooths out the first inch of travel into the jouncer, the bottom of travel is still pretty firm. If someone else does this mod, I'd like to know their impressions. I would still like it a little closer to the arm, but it can only be shimmed 1/8-1/4". I may do that.


In the photo, above, there is 1/4" spacing to the arm.

Before/ after





http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/ZED_jouncers.png