As some of you know we have been working on a full line of proven engine performance parts for the LB7 and LLY engine. We have not released any of the components until they have already been in the field and tested so what your getting has already been proven to work (Some members here have been doing some of the testing with us). Everything has been tested and proven out now so it's time to let everyone know about them.

We are proud to annouce we are now currently selling the following new products:

Billet Rods (TTS Exclusive)
Performance Camshafts (two sizes available & both feature our exclusive EDM keyway)
Street Cam- cam profile is designed for a simple install with no clearance issues
Race Cam- the larger Race profile requires piston clearance to be added and is designed to meet the needs of the competition drag-racer and sled-puller who wants to get the most performance he can out of a cam while still being able to have an engine that idles smooth and has good street manners


Ported Cylinders Heads (two versions available)
This is something that been in the development for close to a year now and we are very excited with the results. Any version can be changed to fit whatever your budget is, so if you want a street port design with new valve components its no problem. All heads are supplied with the flow bench numbers from that exact heads you recieve as flowed on a Superflow bench with the factory intake and exhaust manifolds in place with a standard cylinder bore, so the numbers you see on the sheet is what you get when installed on the engine. We currently have 15 sets of LLY and LB7 heads in the works and will offer the heads as an exchange cores or outright purchase.


Street Port
This version uses stock valves and components for those of you looking for a nice improvement at a lower cost
Port Stall at .500"
Full Race Port- This version uses all new parts including:

Stainless Steel Intake Valves
Inconel Exhaust Valves
Custom Beehive Springs designed for smaller & lighter Custom Retainers (also included) for a Lighter Valve Train and Better Valve Action
Valve Seats
Bronze Valve Guides
Valve Stem Seals
Port Stall at Over .550" Lift on Both the Intake and Exhaust Sides


Dual CP3 System (Currently Under Development)
Oversize Injectors (Currently Under Development)We expect to have the complete package ready over the next few months.

Currently our products (and we don't just mean our tuning) power the fastest Duramax's out there including:

Buck Spruill (N20 DMAX) - Fastest Duramax 1/4mi. - 10.73 @ 126.40
Mark (NLDP) - Second Fastest Duramax 1/4mi. - 10.85 @ 123.35
Kyle Michael (Kyle03D) - Super Street Sled Pulling
Nick D'Amico (Diesel Power) - Fastest CC Duramax 1/4mi. - 11.675 @ 115.56 & Diesel Power Challenge Winner

:ro) The more parts available the better!!

suddenly one releases then the rain starts with others pouring in . Competition breeds better products for us all. NOW WHEN IS THE POWER LOADER 3 GOING TO COME OUT ? NEXT APRIL !

These all are great developments for us and will push the Duramax way farther than it has been. Combine this with the new turbos we have and you definitely will have several sub 12 and 11 trucks .GREAT WORK

Great job Steve :D

What no heat protected pistons???

Steve,

Any preliminary pricing on the rods, cams and heads yet ????

Also the product delivery lead times ????

Members would want to know how much they need to come up with $$$$$ and if any back orders exist then how long until they can realistically see the parts ship out.

Thanks,

T;) NY

Not to speak for Steve, But these parts are not cheap or for the faint hearted, as already mentioned, machine work is required for the cams, the heads are gonna be pricey and the rods have been spotty to get. I think the list that Steve put up proves the rods work well, those trucks mentioned have been put through the paces with no holds back and the rods have held up. Things are getting good for the Duramax crowd

Sounds AWESOME!!!!

Why dual CP3's instead of increasing the flow of a single?
I think I know the answers but I'll ask anyway...

We built a larger single but found the cost too high for that amount gained. The dual pump setup give us all the fuel we need to make 1000 Hp on diesel fuel only and allows the customer to not have a custom pump. If there is a failure down the road it simple to get a factory pump as a replacement all around the world but a custom pump...............

Production Quantities are now being made but we have been able to provide Rods, Camshafts and Heads to all who have asked. Delevery time is going to be up and down until we get full production quanties on the shelf but we required the field testing prior to releasing them and making full production runs. Now that those are completed they have been released.

Here is a picture of our camshaft exclusive EDM Key drive.

Here is a picture of one of our Rods next to a stock one.

Daddy Likes!!!!!!

Here is a picture of one of our Rods next to a stock one.

:Whoa: Wow, very nice :ro) :ro)

S T O U T !

Here is a picture of one of our Rods next to a stock one.

I am happy to say I am a proud owner of a set of them rods! Nice work Steve!:ro)

I am happy to say I am a proud owner of a set of them rods! Nice work Steve!:ro)

Hope you enjoy the camshaft as much as the rods :D Once it's running and Nathan finishes up the twins it should be a monster. Then we will get to see the difference between a big single and the twins as your motor build is the same as Nick's engine.

are these the same rods that need clearanced for each motor??do we have a price yet??

Hope you enjoy the camshaft as much as the rods :D Once it's running and Nathan finishes up the twins it should be a monster. Then we will get to see the difference between a big single and the twins as your motor build is the same as Nick's engine.

Yes the camshaft is very sweet too Steve thanks again!

With the help of all involved including you, Nasty girl should rock!
:muahaha:

are these the same rods that need clearanced for each motor??do we have a price yet??

The rods need to be checked in each and every motor. Some will need clearanceing and some will not, kind of the luck of the draw. Contact our office for the prices or give us a few days and it will all be up on our web site.

Yes the camshaft is very sweet too Steve thanks again!

With the help of all involved including you, Nasty girl should rock!
:muahaha:

Keith...Send me a few seeds from your money tree..I'll pay shipping..:D

Keith...Send me a few seeds from your money tree..I'll pay shipping..:D

To tell ya the truth I am broke now and credit loves me!

I am just another speed junky like you with a need for the smell of diesel power! :D

..... I think the list that Steve put up proves the rods work well, those trucks mentioned have been put through the paces with no holds back and the rods have held up.......

If NLDP is running these rods, and they aren't what failed, what did give up at IRP? If they are what failed, did something else cause them to fail? Just wondering.


C-ya

If NLDP is running these rods, and they aren't what failed, what did give up at IRP? If they are what failed, did something else cause them to fail? Just wondering.


C-ya

NLDP's motor was just a well-worn stocker with no internal modifications...:)

Back to the dual CP3's...will this set up also solve the "run out of fuel when below half a tank" problems that we saw with the stock fuel systems? Or are other modifications to the fuel system still needed?

Back to the dual CP3's...will this set up also solve the "run out of fuel when below half a tank" problems that we saw with the stock fuel systems? Or are other modifications to the fuel system still needed?

the "run out of fuel below half a tank" is caused by using a lift pump with a return system that returns too much fuel to a location other than the cup in the fuel pickup. for instance my old preporator would exhibit that behavior because the fuel was dumped into a fitting in the tank. same thing goes for dumping the return line into the filler neck. i solved this by going to a pump setup w/o a return line.


Not to speak for Steve, But these parts are not cheap or for the faint hearted, as already mentioned, machine work is required for the cams, the heads are gonna be pricey and the rods have been spotty to get. I think the list that Steve put up proves the rods work well, those trucks mentioned have been put through the paces with no holds back and the rods have held up. Things are getting good for the Duramax crowd

You're right Eric. The parts aren't cheap but how many good parts for our engines are? Many of us like Nastygirl wanted to give our new engines the best shot at making big power (and staying together) as possible and I for one was happy to pay extra for the EDM key drive and rods. I just look at it as extra insurance given what I spent on the engine build. On my motor the cam did NOT need to be machined. when my motor was assembled the cam gear fit perfectly over the new cam w/o any modification. My rods did have to be clearanced but John @ Comp Tech (who built my engine) said this is standard practice for a high-performance engine and he'd rather have to remove a little material because its easier to take it off than add it later. They actually went so far as to cut .001-.002 off each of my pistons to get the exact same piston protrusion height for every piston. As far as I know he's sold (and i mean shipped too) quite a few cams and rod sets. I bet there are least a dozen out here amongst the forum members alone. I have Steve's biggest cam in my new motor and it idles like a stock truck. no lope at all and it pulls as hard at 3800RPM as it does at 2500RPM.

If NLDP is running these rods, and they aren't what failed, what did give up at IRP? If they are what failed, did something else cause them to fail? Just wondering.

NLDP had stock rods in the motor that failed- The rods are for the new engine. Having bent 8 rods myself its nice to know I can look to something else to fail besides the rods next time ):h
C-ya

Here are a few pictures of our new spring package. By using the latest in spring design technology we have been able to reduce the overall size and weight of the spring package while still gaining superior valve control. The new spring is a beehive design using oval spring wire. This setup will allow the big boost numbers and high RPM to be run and keep the valve under control.

Stock spring is shown on the left with our new spring on the right.

Hope you enjoy the camshaft as much as the rods :D Once it's running and Nathan finishes up the twins it should be a monster. Then we will get to see the difference between a big single and the twins as your motor build is the same as Nick's engine.

Nick isn't running twin cp3's. I don't know how close you can compare the 2 motor setups.

He will be soon enough :D

Not soon enough!!!

Are the wristpins of your rods sized for LB7/LLY or larger LBZ pins ?

??????

i think you need to go measure a lb7 and lbz wrist pin then all will make sense.. rods would be the same for both AFAIK

hmm.. News to me.. Guess I need to get my head out of the transmission and start looking around the motor :D

I could have sworn there was talk early on that the LBZ wristpin was larger diameter....

Steve was saying the LBZ piston would be better to run instead of any aftermarket pistons also... What's up with that?

Nick is right, the pins are the same diameter.

hmm.. News to me.. Guess I need to get my head out of the transmission and start looking around the motor :D

I could have sworn there was talk early on that the LBZ wristpin was larger diameter....

Steve was saying the LBZ piston would be better to run instead of any aftermarket pistons also... What's up with that?

I think he was implying that the LBZ piston would be better to run for the lower compression in a high boost application, but I could be wrong.

The only after market piston I have seen so far is the Ross unit. While I like Ross pistons for Racing in gas applications I would not use those in my own motor for a diesel application. So the best thing going right now is the factory LBZ unit. There are more in the works but nothing I can talk about yet, but do not expect anything till after the first of the year.

Thanks for the info... Man you guys have really got me drooling over all these nice parts.

just wondering....

Steve you know your stuff...so i won't question it...but

It may be diffrent for Gas application,but i thought a H Beam rod is superior?


Those new ones look stout indeed

Is it just the picture, or are the new rods slightly shorter? :confused: Must be my eyes.


I guess Eric WAS on to something concerning those cam pins, eh? :rolleyes: Nobody can laugh about that now.....


Nice job, Steve. You sure have a lot of money into the designs and engineering. Thanks for the effort.

Rods are the same length.

Pins are the same, but the LBZ pin is LONGER thus more surface area.

I tend to agree with Steve on the LBZ being a good way to go, but the biggest thing I see as a restriction is bore size. You can get up to .005" oversize tops with the OEM LBZ. I've got 4 sets of .040" Ross Units here and they look to be a nice piece.

As for the cam pin...its all good.

So why can't Ross create a piston with the same qualities of the LBZ? Anybody try to get Mahle ?sp? to make some slugs? They're pretty common on the cummins, and they offer moly coating.

The problem is with trying to use a forged piston blank. Diesels use a steel reinforcement ring that is cast into the piston to support the compression ring. The compression ring is a very aggressive style ring in a diesel that is not used in a gas application. This causes the ring to tear up the piston material with time, therefor the steel insert. Also you loose the oil cooling when going with a forged part that is stock advantage in this application. If you were going to Race only and tear the motor down for inspection each season I would use the Ross in that application but if you intended on driving it daily................ I would not use them. Ross builds a good product and I've used them many times in the past, just not for this application.

As for the H-beam Vs I-beam rod design it's all in the application that shows which is better or worse. A general rule of thumb is an I-beam is stronger when there is little to no offset in the rod, the H-beam is stronger where there is a large offset in the rod. In this case the FEI analise showed the I-beam to be better choice so we went that route, but a H-beam design would have worked, just not quite as well.

Eric

The oversize LBZ pistons are .5mm or .020" overbore but good luck trying to get them.

Thanks for summing that I beam vs. H Beam rods Steve...

Well it seems some people elsewhere on this site seem to want to BS people about what we are using by saying that our spring packages are off the shelf parts and they are the originator of ported Duramax heads. Nothing could be further from the truth! While in a few months the spring package will be available from Comp Cams they are not currently. We have worked with Comp Cams to develop a full line of performance camshafts, springs and retainers. Ever wonder why they came to us and not anyone else for this project? They will not offer our exclusive EDM key drive to anyone as we make that. The simple fact is these parts have been under development since mid last year and could be seen on display last year at the SEMA show, the first production parts were all shipped to TTS. I hope this separates the BS others are trying to spread.
Now as for our spring being close to the same as stock a brand new GM spring has 72.6 lb of seat pressure and 139.9 lbs @ .400 lift. Coil bind occurs at 1.114" so running a big cam and stock springs will not work. Our spring packages were developed by ourselves with Comp Cams have 91 lbs of seat pressure and 162.4 lbs @ .400" lift that's over a 15% increase in pressure which is what we wanted. Now the best part is our spring package will allow a camshaft up to .570 lift with no problems.

Real Facts No Fiction here.

Well it seems some people elsewhere on this site seem to want to BS people about what we are using by saying that our spring packages are off the shelf parts and they are the originator of ported Duramax heads. Nothing could be further from the truth! While in a few months the spring package will be available from Comp Cams they are not currently. We have worked with Comp Cams to develop a full line of performance camshafts, springs and retainers. Ever wonder why they came to us and not anyone else for this project? They will not offer our exclusive EDM key drive to anyone as we make that. The simple fact is these parts have been under development since mid last year and could be seen on display last year at the SEMA show, the first production parts were all shipped to TTS. I hope this separates the BS others are trying to spread.
Now as for our spring being close to the same as stock a brand new GM spring has 72.6 lb of seat pressure and 139.9 lbs @ .400 lift. Coil bind occurs at 1.114" so running a big cam and stock springs will not work. Our spring packages were developed by ourselves with Comp Cams have 91 lbs of seat pressure and 162.4 lbs @ .400" lift that's over a 15% increase in pressure which is what we wanted. Now the best part is our spring package will allow a camshaft up to .570 lift with no problems.

Real Facts No Fiction here.

:cool2:

Good work Steve...

If a guy wanted to have the most bad A$$ duramax there is, What would he have to pay for the total package? If someone could, please list breakdown of all the parts, and required machining/assembly needed.

Thanks.

If a guy wanted to have the most bad A$$ duramax there is, What would he have to pay for the total package? If someone could, please list breakdown of all the parts, and required machining/assembly needed.

Thanks.

Send me a Pm with a phone number and we can discuss what you want and come up with cost and delivery.

Send me a Pm with a phone number and we can discuss what you want and come up with cost and delivery.

For some reason, I don't think my wallet likes that idea.:)

looks good steve, but from what i have heard with keiths truck to have the motor out the door and ready to be installed with the full mod package you are looking at 30k, that is a ulgy bill for the extra power it offers

now will the rods by them selves handle the extra force that lp and water add... has this been tested and proven to not fail over the stock bent rods

The rods have been running in Bucks truck since last year and have held up to everything he has thrown at it so far with no signs of failure. Things that failed the stock rods have happened with our rods in his motor and everything has been fine afterward. We have torn motors down and inspected with no signs of failure. Kyle @ Crank it Up has been running them in his motor all season as well without issues. To date no one has failed one of our rods but I am sure someone will someday. So they are well proven now.

On the stock GM valve springs we do not recommend running a camshaft with lift over .420" with our spring package max camshaft lift of .570" :D

Steve,these products should prove to be very very useful in the extreme motors for our trucks. I for one will be getting ALL OF THE ABOVE shortly as funds become available. I'll call you to get some input on my build in a few days. Take care!!!!!

Fred,

i don't think 30k unless you're doing something wrong. mine was about 20k and that included buying a brand new engine to start with.

looks good steve, but from what i have heard with keiths truck to have the motor out the door and ready to be installed with the full mod package you are looking at 30k, that is a ulgy bill for the extra power it offers

now will the rods by them selves handle the extra force that lp and water add... has this been tested and proven to not fail over the stock bent rods

Fred,

i don't think 30k unless you're doing something wrong. mine was about 20k and that included buying a brand new engine to start with.
only 20k.in that case ill take 2.):h

Fred,

i don't think 30k unless you're doing something wrong. mine was about 20k and that included buying a brand new engine to start with.

Probely thinking in Canadian funds:D

good to know, thanks nick...... be nice to see how these motors will hold up in the long run.... have you had a chance to do any 1/4 mile times with the new found power



Fred,

i don't think 30k unless you're doing something wrong. mine was about 20k and that included buying a brand new engine to start with.

good to know, thanks nick...... be nice to see how these motors will hold up in the long run.... have you had a chance to do any 1/4 mile times with the new found power

Fred,

Just the drag racing at redding so far. I did a 12.37 @ 107.52 compared to a prior best (#2 only) of 13.2 & 99.875... 7300lbs both times.. maybe a bit heaving for the 12.37 as i added the gooseneck hitch..

Fred,

i don't think 30k unless you're doing something wrong. mine was about 20k and that included buying a brand new engine to start with.

I would assume there is labor $$$ in that 20k as well?? 20k doesn't sound that bad with parts, brand new motor and labor.

Hows that saying go- Question: how hard do you want to play
Answer: how deep are your pockets;)

I would assume there is labor $$$ in that 20k as well?? 20k doesn't sound that bad with parts, brand new motor and labor.

Hows that saying go- Question: how hard do you want to play
Answer: how deep are your pockets;)

The 20 K is complete with R&R of the old engine as well. If you were to do some of the work yourself and reuse your old engine I bet you could get out for less than 12K but either way if your going to play your going to pay.

Wouldn't be anything wrong with using the original block as long as there was no major failure right? How hard are the .020" over pistons to get?

Do you provide specs for the machinist to assemble to?

There are some nice builders on Gasoline Alley ;)

That $20k doesn't include dual cp3s, right? That's what, another $4k?

The 20 K is complete with R&R of the old engine as well. If you were to do some of the work yourself and reuse your old engine I bet you could get out for less than 12K but either way if your going to play your going to pay.

Wondering aloud here........:eek:

Rods - $ 2500 ?
Heads - $ 4000 -$ 5000 ?
Cam - $ 800- $ 1000 ?
AK5000 - $ 4000 ?
Head Studs - $ 750 ?
Main Studs - $ 750 ?

Gasket set ???
Bearing Set ??
Injectors ??
Machine Work ??
Assembly ??

I am coming up with $13K-$14K without even blinking an eye.......-:t

R&R has to be some $$$$ too.

Would be nice to see an actual breakdown of what machine work etc is.....

T:cool: NY

Just figure about $20-25K in the end. Still, for the power, I would think thats not all that bad for a full-tilt race motor....

figure out what a 850HP, 1500TQ gasser would cost.....

Tony, your high on the main studs.. LOL

I have some bills laying around here for machine work I'll post some appoxomates later.

Gaskets/seals/misc will add up in a hurry, I usually figure 400-500 per engine.

Tony-

I'm not breaking things down by price beause i'd hate to see any sort of price wars go on but I will say i just added it up, and everything including:

brand new engine to start with which you can subtract if using your old motor(cost of $4500)
removing the old engine and installing the new engine & electric fans
injectors
turbo
cam
machine shop labor to build engine
rods
lbz pistons, rings, wrist pins
head work
studs (i only have arp head studs)
Flex a lite fans
gaskets, misc parts, etc.

Came to a total of $22,602.00


The only thing it doesn't include is a dual cp3 kit, because I don't have one yet.

I paid just under $3500 for the engine build, which they felt was higher than it should have been. I was happy to pay it as I asked them to do a bunch of extra work on the motor and disassemble all assembled parts sent to them as I wanted them to be the final authority as to whether everything was done correctly or not. Had I not ask for extra work I have expected about $2500 give or take a few hundred. Bear in mind this a shop that builds race engines for a living so they are probably on the expensive side of things but WELL worth it IMHO.

Tony-

I'm not breaking things down by price beause i'd hate to see any sort of price wars go on but I will say i just added it up, and everything including:

brand new engine to start with which you can subtract if using your old motor(cost of $4500)
removing the old engine and installing the new engine & electric fans
injectors
turbo
cam
machine shop labor to build engine
rods
lbz pistons, rings, wrist pins
head work
studs (i only have arp head studs)
Flex a lite fans
gaskets, misc parts, etc.

Came to a total of $22,602.00


The only thing it doesn't include is a dual cp3 kit, because I don't have one yet.

I paid just under $3500 for the engine build, which they felt was higher than it should have been. I was happy to pay it as I asked them to do a bunch of extra work on the motor and disassemble all assembled parts sent to them as I wanted them to be the final authority as to whether everything was done correctly or not. Had I not ask for extra work I have expected about $2500 give or take a few hundred. Bear in mind this a shop that builds race engines for a living so they are probably on the expensive side of things but WELL worth it IMHO.

Nick, I couldnt agree more with that, They MAY be more expensive, but they are the ones that will look at everything that much closer. They know that attention to detail wins. The shop I am using is like that, they are a great bunch of guys and they find the diesel stuff very interesting as well. They have already proven themselves by building huge big rig motors in semi pullers. They wont let me rush them as I seem to do with deadlines and in the end, I appreciate that.

Nick,

Thanks for the prices,

I looked at ATS's web site and they sell main and head stud kits so that is what I based things off of.........:eek:

I also know that some things are probably negotiable and that is to be expected.........;)

That is quite a big chunk of change to spend on a motor.........but racing is not cheap and breaking stuff is not good.

Glad to see you are happy with what you have, looks like it is running very well.

T:cool: NY

No problem Tony. I just don't like quoting prices as it isn't fair to the other forum vendors..

She is running great.. i'm just eager to get more fuel!

No problem Tony. I just don't like quoting prices as it isn't fair to the other forum vendors..

She is running great.. i'm just eager to get more fuel!

So you pulled a 12.1X with a stock CP3?:eek: Twins should really light things up!

yes cp3 is bone stock

yes cp3 is bone stock

Enough talk about it, just :grd: Good to see everything playing together well on your truck............now feed it more fuel already :D

More fuel and then worry about the turbo, again. Right now we've cut the fuel down from where it could be as I figured with 60 + lbs of boost the A5000 would not last long. So once the duals are completed we still have some more work.

Steve, so when are you going to release a turbo to go with everything else???

Trannytom has a pedestal so you can mount whatever turbo you want, Garret GT42 anyone? or Bigger

Steve, so when are you going to release a turbo to go with everything else???

Now you think I would do something like that? ;)