I know this subject has been beaten to death, however, I have diesel engine in a boat. The following is from that forum, written by a filtration guy and is referring to the oil analysis test saying Fram is not any good:

"That 'test report' has been around for quite a while and is essentially unsupported / misleading data/opinion.

1. The ONLY way to rate an oil filter is the by the industry standard "OSU - F10 (Oklahoma State University) partical reduction efficiency test (Beta values).
2. There are probably only about 3 paper mills in the entire USA which make the 'technical resinated paper' used in oil filters ..... everyone buys this paper from these three technical paper manufacturers.
3. Oil filters must be operated AT or below the manufacturers 'flux' rating (gallons per hour per differential pressure) or they will ALL pass particulate, especially deformable particulate.
4. Lubricating oil is filtered by whats known as 'recirculation filtration' .... meaning: using a very open pore structure paper to remove particles MUCH smaller than the 'rating' of the filter. A filter media will capture particles MUCH smaller than its 'pore' rating; you just have to recirculate it over and over through the same filter many times. As a filter get 'dirtier' it will remove even smaller and smalller particles - the 'dirt' forms a porous 'cake' and the 'cake' begins to do the filtration. With recirculation filtration one can use compressed pubic hair as the filter media if one recirculates the fluid often and 'fast' enough - a joke, but true.

As one deeply involved in 'filtration engineering" my recommendation is: buy the LARGEST replacement filter cartridge that will physically fit onto the engine. Dont buy 'private branded filters' such as Mopar, Yanmar, ....they are all just especially made by others and carry an enormous 'mark up' for the entity that 'owns' the brand. Wix, Fram, Parker, Racor, etc. are ALL good filter manufacturers and have web-based 'equivalency' charts to select the proper filter when changing out from an obscenely overpriced 'private branded' filter element.

Avoid the 'hype' websites comparing 'oil filters' .... are usually slick marketing hype that have hidden agendas that unfairly support one 'manufacturer' over another by listing 'slick', misleading and unsupported data that is unrelated to true filter 'efficiency'. These 'filter comparison' websites are simply "snakeoil" salesmen. Simply go to the above websites for comparisons or go to a 'good' auto supply shop and let them do the equivalent comparision into standard branded oil filters. For my Yanmar, Ive found Wix (from a NAPA auto supply) has the best prices for my geographical location.

Buy the LARGEST physically sized filter you can fit.

I know this subject has been beaten to death, however, I have diesel engine in a boat. The following is from that forum, written by a filtration guy and is referring to the oil analysis test saying Fram is not any good:

"That 'test report' has been around for quite a while and is essentially unsupported / misleading data/opinion.

1. The ONLY way to rate an oil filter is the by the industry standard "OSU - F10 (Oklahoma State University) partical reduction efficiency test (Beta values).
2. There are probably only about 3 paper mills in the entire USA which make the 'technical resinated paper' used in oil filters ..... everyone buys this paper from these three technical paper manufacturers.
3. Oil filters must be operated AT or below the manufacturers 'flux' rating (gallons per hour per differential pressure) or they will ALL pass particulate, especially deformable particulate.
4. Lubricating oil is filtered by whats known as 'recirculation filtration' .... meaning: using a very open pore structure paper to remove particles MUCH smaller than the 'rating' of the filter. A filter media will capture particles MUCH smaller than its 'pore' rating; you just have to recirculate it over and over through the same filter many times. As a filter get 'dirtier' it will remove even smaller and smalller particles - the 'dirt' forms a porous 'cake' and the 'cake' begins to do the filtration. With recirculation filtration one can use compressed pubic hair as the filter media if one recirculates the fluid often and 'fast' enough - a joke, but true.

As one deeply involved in 'filtration engineering" my recommendation is: buy the LARGEST replacement filter cartridge that will physically fit onto the engine. Dont buy 'private branded filters' such as Mopar, Yanmar, ....they are all just especially made by others and carry an enormous 'mark up' for the entity that 'owns' the brand. Wix, Fram, Parker, Racor, etc. are ALL good filter manufacturers and have web-based 'equivalency' charts to select the proper filter when changing out from an obscenely overpriced 'private branded' filter element.

Avoid the 'hype' websites comparing 'oil filters' .... are usually slick marketing hype that have hidden agendas that unfairly support one 'manufacturer' over another by listing 'slick', misleading and unsupported data that is unrelated to true filter 'efficiency'. These 'filter comparison' websites are simply "snakeoil" salesmen. Simply go to the above websites for comparisons or go to a 'good' auto supply shop and let them do the equivalent comparision into standard branded oil filters. For my Yanmar, Ive found Wix (from a NAPA auto supply) has the best prices for my geographical location.

Buy the LARGEST physically sized filter you can fit.


A larger filter is fine IF it has the same features as the small filter you are replacing. I wouldn't put a 2 quart filter on in place of a 1 quart filter if it didn't have an anti-drainback valve, for instance..

OldSoldier:

I remember reading an article of a very thorough comparison of oil filters; I'll see if I can't find the link again. IIRC, the Wix (branded as Wix or Napa) and AC Delco filters were highly rated; the Fram was among the lowest rated. :)

Here it is:

study:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

overview:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html

A larger filter is fine IF it has the same features as the small filter you are replacing. I wouldn't put a 2 quart filter on in place of a 1 quart filter if it didn't have an anti-drainback valve, for instance..

Its hard to compare filters based solely on dimensions. You need to use whatever GM says to use even if there is one that is bigger and appears the same.
For instance: I use Baldwin filters on all my vehicles. A B1432 filter will fit on all 5.3 liter and 6.0 liter GM trucks, Baldwin says that anything before 2003 should use the B1432 and everything 2003 and later should use a B31, for the sake of having fewer filters on hand I was using the B1432 on everything. After checking, the B31 is a 18 micron filter with a 400 psi burst, the B1432 is a 12 micron with a 300 psi burst. While it may seem like a small point, Baldwin and GM both will check the filter if you have a lubricant related warranty claim. Given GM's recent quest to rid themselves of those pesky warranty repairs, you would be pretty much screwed if they caught you.
Long story short is that it pays to use whatever the owners manual says or whatever the mfg says is correct for your application.

Scott

I used to use Fram until I heard all the horror stories on here, tried to get a AC Delco but couldn't find one so settled on Purolator;)

I used fram for years and didn't have a problem until one evening I pulled into the GF's driveway and her father smelled gas. Popped the hood and the fuel filter was leaking. We ended up spending that evening finding a place that was open so I could buy a new fuel filter. I still used fram thinking it was just a fluke thing until I found the internet later and started seeing stories of failures in fram oil filters as well I switched rather than risk my engine or life.

I wish Eric would post a pic of his cut-apart Fram and ACDelco oil filters. The AC had twice the media and used metal on both ends to hold the media in the center of the can and had a blowoff, the fram used cardboard to hold the media, with no blowoff.

One look at that pic and you'd NEVER use Fram oiil filters again.

You mean this one?
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4246&d=1115571729

It has a bypass valve (not "blowoff") but it's a piece of stamped steel, not a coil spring like the AC Delco
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/9ZZ_fram2.jpg

Screw FRAM!

I remember when AC delco filters where junk, in the older 5.7 gas motors I can actually remember calling Gm's tech line when I worked at the dealership for a customer compilant of a cold start knock. The techenical service rep for GM said use a fram oil filter and not the AC delco and the knock will go away because fram had a better check valve. My opion is use what ever you feel is best, nobody has more money than Gm to do testing for comparsion. I use a Ac/ delco filter now and when I can't get I use fram. Just thoughts how times change

I remember when AC delco filters where junk, in the older 5.7 gas motors I can actually remember calling Gm's tech line when I worked at the dealership for a customer compilant of a cold start knock. The techenical service rep for GM said use a fram oil filter and not the AC delco and the knock will go away because fram had a better check valve. My opion is use what ever you feel is best, nobody has more money than Gm to do testing for comparsion. I use a Ac/ delco filter now and when I can't get I use fram. Just thoughts how times change

Fram probably was good at one time, but not anymore. Seeing how they are constructed I wouldn't use a fram if i couldn't find an Ac Delco, I'd pick just about any other brand first.

Fram= -:t AC Delco or WIX (NAPA GOLD)= :hail:

Any comments on Purolator filters;)

The guys at AutoZone said that Purolator was not as good as K&N Filters. Anyone care to elaborate?

I think I’m going to go with Wix.

The guys at AutoZone said that Purolator was not as good as K&N Filters. Anyone care to elaborate?

I think I’m going to go with Wix.
He may say that cause he doesn't sell Purolator:rolleyes:

He may say that cause he doesn't sell Purolator:rolleyes:

:exactly:

Which is why I went with Wix today...

On the topic of oil filters I had this link for years.

http://www.synlube.com/oilfilters.htm

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html

I know the write ups are for for bikes but it was informative.


cheers

Any comments on Purolator filters;)


I used them for years when Meijers used to carry them around here, now all they sell is F%^$
I use Baldwin now because I get them through work and I believe they are a good quality. All things being equal, if Purolator were still readily available I would probably still use them.

I used them for years when Meijers used to carry them around here, now all they sell is F%^$
I use Baldwin now because I get them through work and I believe they are a good quality. All things being equal, if Purolator were still readily available I would probably still use them.
Sounds cool to me;)

Idle Chatter, thank you! I couldn't remember the correct term. Sorry if "blowoff" confused anyone.