edteach
07-08-2006, 07:46 PM
I'm trying to hook up my new Prodigy in my '06 LLY, and I'm having problems. The prodigy won't power on. I've double checked my pigtail+OEM harness and it seems to be wired up correctly and shows continuity from one plug to the next. I then tested the outlet where the harness plugs in. I get +12V on the stop light (light blue), but I do not get +12V on the main supply (red). I don't get 0V either. It's actually 0.4V. BTW, I'm testing with the ground from that outlet (black).
I've been digging through the posts, and I haven't found anything that helps yet. I did install my 40A fuse previously, but from what I understand that shouldn't affect that 12V supply line to the brake controller. BTW, I also installed a relay for that trailer accessory line because it feeds a rearview camera that I don't want draining the battery when the ignition is off.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks...
-Ed
HD Scott
07-08-2006, 09:33 PM
My controller doesn't turn on unless the trailer is plugged in. Just a thought.
wd9cvr
07-08-2006, 09:59 PM
Check you crimped connections. You may want to solder all your connections. Remember, you only need 4 wires of the truck harness, you should have one left over. Your control should have power to it when the trailer is disconnected. You should see one dot in the corner lit up. Also check your fuse block to see if you have a bad fuse to the +12 supply line. Hope this helps. Good luck.
edteach
07-08-2006, 11:25 PM
Thanks for the ideas, guys.
I went through the driver side fuse panel looking for suspicious fuses. Nothing. Then I popped the hood and looked in that fuse panel. I remembered reading another post about STUD #1 and STUD #2. I already installed my new 40A in STUD #1 for the trailer accessory supply, but I looked for STUD #2. It has a 30A installed from the factory. I took a closer look at it with a flash light, and it was blown all right.
Problem Solved:
Replaced STUD #2 30A fuse. I likely blew it when I was under the main fuse panel wiring in my relay for my hitchcam.
Thanks again...
-Ed
ChevOMax
07-29-2006, 10:35 AM
According to the book STUD #2 is "Auxiliary power (Single Battery and Diesels Only)/Dual Battery (TP2). DO NOT INSTALL FUSE"....?
STUD #1 is "Accessory Power/Trailer Wiring Brake Feed".
A little confused about STUD #1.........What's it for.....Can I or can I not put a fuse in it...........if so what size?
Frotax
08-02-2006, 01:52 AM
stud one is what puts power to the 7 wire connector all the time.
ie if you have a cargo trailer or something, you can run the interior lights with vehicle off.
WHYT LIE
08-02-2006, 03:27 PM
stud one is what puts power to the 7 wire connector all the time.
ie if you have a cargo trailer or something, you can run the interior lights with vehicle off.
Ok, I have an '06 LBZ and just wired up my Prodigy. Like a dumbass I had plugged in my factory trailer brake harness and THEN cut the wires to length and got a spark... Sure enough, I popped that 30 amp "fuse" in the under hood fuse block. (It was a 30 amp fuse, and I replaced it with the 40 amp fuse that came taped to the factory trailer harness...) I have a plastic "plug" in the Stud #1 spot from the factory.
I have a car trailer (open deck) that runs on the 7 pin round connector. I am using one of those wires (center/blue???) to charge a yellow top Optima in a battery box in my trailer box for deck lights and winch. Will this setup charge the way it is, or do I need to put a "fuse" in Stud #1 spot?
Tom Turtle
08-02-2006, 03:55 PM
It depends on how the battery box on the trailer is wired. If it shares the circuit with the trailer lights, it would get charged once the trailer lights are turned on.
If your trailer has no wiring to connect to the pin that Stud #1 provides power to, adding the fuse will do nothing. Likewise, if your trailer is wired to pull power from that pin, adding the fuse will ensure that you always have power once the trailer is connected (even if the lights are off).
The pin that gets powered once the stud is replaced by a fuse is labeled as +12V on the wiring diagram that is embossed on the factory receptacle. You would need to then check your trailer's plug to see if it takes power from the pin. I don't recall my open trailer using it, but mine did not have a battery or winch.