just got time to yank the trans on our 85 6.2 suburban . wow torque converter needle bearings all over the place with the cage from a thrust bearing and the stater support ( i think) the stationary shaft the torque converter sits on was ground up pretty bad. friday i will gut the trans if i get time. first time i ever had to use a wrecking bar to pry torque converter out of front of trans.

Wow. Sounds like it was ground up pretty bad... That one is going to need a lot of parts... Torque converters aren't cheap either...

Good luck on the project!

By the way, my 700 is working good since the repairs I did...

make's you feel good you got that thing working doesn't it. anymore not to many folks will open up a trans. and work on it. now if this had a computor hooked to it i would of done allittle more diagnoses before removal. i will go thru this thing and replace everything that it needs then some . found an outfit local here in portland that handles lots of parts . hope they are quality or i will go back to my local rebuilder for parts.

Farmer, check with Kevin at TransStar in Portland. That's where I get my stuff. If you need tech info, Mike runs his shop across the street. (51st & Divison) from TransStar. Both good to work with. Fred

thanks fred for the heads up I will give them a call the first of the week. have you ever dealt with trans exchange co on MLK in portland? just looking for the best parts hate to waste labor.

Are these boxes usually weak and does beafing them up help much?
I was looking at one of these to put behind a 6.2 with turbo.
http://www.automatictransmission.com.au/extreme_t700.asp

If ther is something special you're looking for & can't find let me know I've got most of the go fast stuff for these.

here's a couple of photo's of the front pump and housing. i have been told that you could put a 4l60 converter in my 700r4 for and upgrade has anyone heard of this.? can't see the chewed up stater support bad camera lighting.

If yours is really an 85' it should be a large input shaft. This known the difference is minimal & not to be worried about with the castings, however the later pump hub & vanes are different & the 10 or 13 vane should be used along with unbreakable rings. All are readily available. Did this trans work OK before the blowup? As far as shift timing? Kickdowns etc?

yes it had been doing fine until ten minutes before it quit moving. dad was driving so i can only take his word on how it was functioning. once in a while when i drove it you could feel the torque convertor clutch vibrate when engaging just a split second feeling . where are you located King pin?

King Pin is in NE Iowa. I meant the ganeral shift pattrn etc upshifts downshifts TCC timing was this all good or does it need modifying?

thanks fred for the heads up I will give them a call the first of the week. have you ever dealt with trans exchange co on MLK in portland? just looking for the best parts hate to waste labor.

I've bought tons of parts from trans exchange in portland. Great guys!
I've rebuilt probly 20 700r4's with thier parts, and have had no problems yet!..........:ro) ........... (knock on wood)!!!

Oh,yea......... Get the 10 vane pump, the 9 disc 3-4 clutches, the kevlar band, the corvette servo, and the boost valve, to up line-psi. A new heavy duty converter, and most importantly, FLUSH ALL THE CRAP FROM THE TRANS COOLER!!!!!!!!!
Can anyone think of anything else?
Most of it is included in the heavy duty (commercial vehical) kit........
And a book, If it's your first one.....
Good luck!

thanks for the input. flushing the cooler lines and cooler are on my clean up list. but allways good to be reminded. this is my mom's grocerery getter and go to church on sunday rig. never has towed bought it in 88' or so. stock 6.2. i will call on both places and see who has things on hand for monday. i would like the book on the upgrades i talk to the trans exchange folks last week, always looking for recommodations. it always shifted ok , don't want a harsh or late shift. eighty year olds are alittle fragile thanks again.

IMO I would use the 4L60E Apply pressure plate & an 8 disc clutch pack usins the OE thickness 700 3-4 steels. Alot less apply warpage. I would also use the 4L60E 3-4 pack load release springs in the 700 they keep the drag down in the clutch pack when it is not engaged. I would use the corvette servo & the .500 boost valve. Do not use anything but a GM rear planet. I would also use a Transgo SR shift kit.

i am taking all this down may not use it all on this trans but my 84 4x4 pu going to need a trans again soon 100k on rebuild just starting to feel torque converter clutch chatter. this suburban trans looks like new inside after 80k. i will replace bands and clutches and alll soft parts but i must say every thing but the front end of the trans looks like the day i rebuilt it. no blue steels , no burnt fluid. tons of friction material left on bands and disc.

Just an old note. "If it ain't broke don't fix it" !!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah.. If the clutches and everything are "just like when you rebuilt it", I'd put in another pump/torque converter, flush everything out, and put it back in!

By the way, that blown pump is a familiar sight... Looks quite similar to the one I replaced recently...

picked up the parts today along with some other stops while in the big city of portland hopefully get a couple hours in on it tommorrow.

sorry for the delayed report just seems like i get so little time to get this thing done and back in. should get the front pump installed back in the trans tomorrow if i can get some time and i also have the jr trans go kit to install at that time. i will post when i get the thing stuffed back in hopefully by the middle of next week.

got trans back in suburban yesterday and test drove . goes in 1,2,3,od and reverse but tv cable is bad picked one up this morning to hot for this guy to install until morning. went into drive by 15-20mph and would not down shift unless done manually. automatic cable adjuster is all but froze and lubing it didn't help.

Yeah, my cable did the same thing. It was all stretched out anyway, so I had to get a new one.

I still haven't found an easy way to hook it up at the trans end of things.

well the cable didn't help . what was wrong was when i removed the tv valve in the valve body and the bushing behind it all was well , when i reassembled it i put the rear bushing in the valve body and reinstalled the roll pin before insurting the valve. opps . anyway dropped the valve body recheck my work kind of thought it was in the tv valve by the way it was not working. reassembled and road tested and works great. kind of tough working on it an hour or two here and there around summer work and my little girl. can't belive i did not catch it the first time i know better.

what was wrong was when i removed the tv valve in the valve body and the bushing behind it all was well , when i reassembled it i put the rear bushing in the valve body and reinstalled the roll pin before insurting the valve. opps .

Been there, done that. Luckily, I caught it before I installed the valve body...

Glad to hear you've got it working!