How do some of you guys get your trucks turning 3,500-4000 rpm while you're pulling? I've had three hooks this year, and numerous ones last year and I'm having a hard time getting past 3,300 rpm.

With EFI I've got way more power than last year but I'm not getting the r's. Green flag, hammer it, 1st gear, 2nd-> 3,300 rpm-> shifts to 3rd and peaks at 3,300 rpm again. Then it obviously starts bogging down.

Do you powerbrake from the line and try to get a "launch" out of it?

Do you manually hold 2nd gear to get more R's then shift to 3rd? And if so, there's a way to rig up a shift light isn't there? And how do you prevent shifting beyond 3rd and into 4th, Nuetral :eek: or whatever?

How do some of you guys get your trucks turning 3,500-4000 rpm while you're pulling? I've had three hooks this year, and numerous ones last year and I'm having a hard time getting past 3,300 rpm.

With EFI I've got way more power than last year but I'm not getting the r's. Green flag, hammer it, 1st gear, 2nd-> 3,300 rpm-> shifts to 3rd and peaks at 3,300 rpm again. Then it obviously starts bogging down.

Do you powerbrake from the line and try to get a "launch" out of it?

Do you manually hold 2nd gear to get more R's then shift to 3rd? And if so, there's a way to rig up a shift light isn't there? And how do you prevent shifting beyond 3rd and into 4th, Nuetral :eek: or whatever?

Same question here. I'm only able to hit 3300 to 3400 rpm. We need help boys, I'll share any info I have to help beat a Dodge.:rant:

It's in your programming somewhere. Lots of people are going past 3300.

For the LLY, drop a PM to BigBlockBill, his PPE turns over that, I believe.

The shifting part does take a little practice. I do the manual 2-3 shift, I have the bucket seats and I brace my arm on the armrest so I'm steady (and the motion is real short). Hitting neutral at the end of the run is trickier. Twice I've mistakenly gone all the way up to "R", but the Allison knows better and just hits neutral. It's a little nerve wracking at first.

It's in your programming somewhere. Lots of people are going past 3300.

For the LLY, drop a PM to BigBlockBill, his PPE turns over that, I believe.

The shifting part does take a little practice. I do the manual 2-3 shift, I have the bucket seats and I brace my arm on the armrest so I'm steady (and the motion is real short). Hitting neutral at the end of the run is trickier. Twice I've mistakenly gone all the way up to "R", but the Allison knows better and just hits neutral. It's a little nerve wracking at first.

That would be right. PPE can adjust the rev limiter.

Mine will rev to 4000 rpm in my "testing" . I was thinking of using efi live to adjust the shift points.

I've got all the tables and parameters (that I can see) cranked upto 4000 limit. I disagree that it's programming.

Cummin'_Stroke_this_Dmax, on the street if you hold it in 1st or 2nd or 3rd gear will it go over 3300?

nwpadmax, try pushing the gear selector forward (toward the dash) when shifting into neutral

First take it out on the street, put it in 3rd and see if you can take it past 3300rpm. If you can programming isn't your option. If you can't you need to look at the programming. It's not just a matter of raising the speed limiter you also have to set it to fuel past 3300 rpm. Just raising the rev limiter is not enough.

Yes it will go above 3300 on the street. And I've got the graphs/charts extended at least to 4200 rpm on all the tables I've messed with, (fuel, timing, boost, rev limit, so on & so on.) I've been fine tuning these tunes for pulling over the last three months. I'm 99.9% sure it's not a programming issue.

But while we're on that subject.... can you program the TCM to hold the gear longer? ie: program it to hold 2nd gear til 3500 then shift to 3rd??? I haven't messed around with the TCM programming at all yet.

But while we're on that subject.... can you program the TCM to hold the gear longer? ie: program it to hold 2nd gear til 3500 then shift to 3rd??? I haven't messed around with the TCM programming at all yet.

Yes you can. :D

it must be too much load for the motor in 3rd gear hooked to the sled

it must be too much load for the motor in 3rd gear hooked to the sled

:mad: More Power!

Trippin - is that hard to do?

Trippin - is that hard to do?

Open your Allison tune in EFILive and go to:

Transmission>Full throttle shifts>Upshift ..........and modify the desired shift points. Be sure to modify the rpm and the corresponding speed table! Math will be required. :D

Try this for some good info:
http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_speed_rpm.htm

How high dose b0727 go this was my rpm problem it quit giving tps fueling comand after 3600 rpms now it will go as high as i let it but i keep the actual rev limiter set to 4100rpms

Cummin' Stroke this - your sig either does not show a built tranny, or I can't read.

Cummin' Stroke this - your sig either does not show a built tranny, or I can't read.

:D What do you need one of those for?

Well, isn't it possible that you're slipping it and it's defueling, thus holding you to 3300 or thereabouts?

Once you get a CoPilot you'll never go back!

when i got oil on the mass air flow deal, it cut my power way down. so much that 3rd gear was too much. ever since i put that locker up front, rpm came down. i always am under 4k but i am pretty sure higher than 3500. seems like i might have lost a little rpm from different tires this year too!

Jeremy, have you ever unplugged your MAF?

yes. i did the next day i had that problem!(thanks again tomac!) this was at the first pull of last year. tomac had the a5k on and was trying to figure things out, unpluging things here and there. he told to do it, and it worked great. i am have some issues as of late, and had it unpluged the last 2 pull i was at too!

Well, isn't it possible that you're slipping it and it's defueling, thus holding you to 3300 or thereabouts?

Once you get a CoPilot you'll never go back!
Mine does the same thing. But I did try the manual shifting all the way home from work just to get used to it, must have burnt 1/4 tank of fuel in 15 miles but did leave alot of smoke:grd: . Thanks for the tip Mike. I will try this Saturday night. I was letting it hit 3800 before shifting and it will 4000 without a problem.

Jeremy, have you ever unplugged your MAF?
Should I unplug it? What will this do? Thanks

Lawnboy, I'm not an expert at it, but the best explanation I've heard is that when you unplug the MAF, the ecm has nothing to do but to run in open-loop and apply the amount of fuel commanded by throttle position (a static table without feedback).

If you think about it, a MAF can be viewed as an emissions-regulating device. The ECM is trying to balance the fuel supplied with the air it knows is flowing, which makes it burn clean. Removing the MAF will set a code, but the truck still runs fine.

We were looking at Tech2 data on one programmer. Factory max air flow measured by the MAF is something like 440 grams/sec; above that and it starts tripping codes. A larger charger should and will exceed that. This particular program on my truck showed data comprising much higher rates than 440 g/s with no issues. I think this is one of the keys of Dmax tuning, but it's just my hunch right now and not proven fact.

What the heck, I'll try it. Thanks for the info. Good luck on Saturday.

Nwpadmax, I forgot to unhook the MAF last night, I was pulling double duty and just had too many things to do. I'll try it next time at Cadiz. I did do the manual shifting and that worked great. I let it get up to 3600 -3700 rpm and then hit 3rd gear. Nice seeing a little rpm. Thanks for everyones input!

Yeah, so did I...

Same here, did a manual 2-3 shift at three pulls this weekend....:D It was like a complete different animal.

on a loose track it's still best to let the allison shift so you can get into 3rd gear quicker

Same here, did a manual 2-3 shift at three pulls this weekend....:D It was like a complete different animal.


at what R's are you guys shifting also did you run 4 hi in wyoming???

I had all kinds of power but no wheel speed dont know if it was b/c the tires i was using where shot or what I ran 3600-3700 on the r's it never shifted into 4th and I ended up third to last and ended up getting drunk after that disapointment

Mike is 100% right. Because of the shifting of the Allison, the motor never bogs (versus, for example, a Cummins set up with a puller clutch) and you actually have to prepare for the opposite risk, just blowing 'em loose and spinning like hell. The Dodge guys grab a big gear (like 5th low on the 6-speed) for loose tracks and they roll it out gently because the motor drops a lot of rpm.

For a tight track where you have lots of grip, holding it in second until 3800+ and then shifting has worked very well for us. If the Dodge guys grab too big a gear on a tight track, they just die when the sled hits while the Dmax stays in the power band.

The hardest thing about this whole experience so far, for me, has been reading the track. I have never lacked for power, but sure have lacked traction. Part of our complication is running without front hanging weight in our street class. Running on loose tracks is even more difficult for us.

I think I'm going to try a couple pro street hooks just to see what she does with nose weight.

at what R's are you guys shifting also did you run 4 hi in wyoming???


No, low side.

[quote=nwpadmax;1176350]
The hardest thing about this whole experience so far, for me, has been reading the track. I have never lacked for power, but sure have lacked traction. Part of our complication is running without front hanging weight in our street class. Running on loose tracks is even more difficult for us.


I agree I have the power just cant get it to hook up........:help:

wheres tomac? I need major :help: I can not get this thing to get momentum. It just wants to brake lose and blow lots of smoke.

Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaassssssssssssssss sseeeeeeeeeeeee it out and only whoop on it once you have some ground speed.

The lack of an e-locker is also hurting you. Do you have the locking diff (G80) in the rear?

Go bigger on the tires, and/or less tread depth. I'm assuming you're spinning and digging holes?

[quote=nwpadmax;1176667]Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaassssssssssssssss sseeeeeeeeeeeee it out and only whoop on it once you have some ground speed.

The lack of an e-locker is also hurting you. Do you have the locking diff (G80) in the rear?

Go bigger on the tires, and/or less tread depth. I'm assuming you're spinning and digging holes?[/quo
Thanks for the info.
how do i tell what diff I have.... when I trq brake it will leave two solid black marks almost the same length. I was running almost bald GY MTR wranglers and I now have a new set of same size as before (lt285/70r17) bfg' a/t's commin for it hopefully here by this weekend. I eased it out till about 50 ft mark and never hooked up. with an elocker will I be able to come out harder???????

OK we need to think about some things first:

1) what was the track like? Sticky clay or loose dirt/gravel/sand? Or greasy wet?

1a) Was everyone spinning? Or just you? The trucks that hooked up, what combos were they running?

1b) was the sled real heavy, set for another class? Did other trucks of similar power go 250' or more?

2) Look in your glove compartment. It should have a tag on the door saying "service part information" and "do not remove". Read through the codes, and if you have a G80 code, then you have a locking rear diff. If not, you have an open diff, which will let one wheel spin.

3) The tires you're getting should be good. Did you air the rears to max and front to about half that?

4) what's your hitch height? 26" max is common here. If yours was a stock height, that will kill you.

5) How much ballast were you running? Was it in the bed or on the nose?

6) Did you lower your torsion bars all the way, or almost all the way?

To answer your question, e-lockers are great and they really show their worth on a loose track.

OK we need to think about some things first:

1) what was the track like? Sticky clay or loose dirt/gravel/sand? Or greasy wet? LOOSE DIRT

1a) Was everyone spinning? Or just you? The trucks that hooked up, what combos were they running? PRETTY MUCH JUST ME, CUMMIN STOKE THIS HOOKED UP FINE ALONG WITH ISUDIESEL

1b) was the sled real heavy, set for another class? Did other trucks of similar power go 250' or more? SEEMED TO BE KINDA HEAVY, I BELEIVE SIMILAR EVEN SOME HAD LESS POWER WHERE UP IN THE 250 + i THINK CUMMIN STROKE THIS WENT ALMOST FULL PULL

2) Look in your glove compartment. It should have a tag on the door saying "service part information" and "do not remove". Read through the codes, and if you have a G80 code, then you have a locking rear diff. If not, you have an open diff, which will let one wheel spin. IT DOES HAVE A G80

3) The tires you're getting should be good. Did you air the rears to max and front to about half that? 50 IN REAR AND 20 IN FRONTS

4) what's your hitch height? 26" max is common here. If yours was a stock height, that will kill you. HITCH WAS 25 INCHES

5) How much ballast were you running? Was it in the bed or on the nose?300 lbs in front of cab shuved up in cab under dash 200 on one side 100 on the other

6) Did you lower your torsion bars all the way, or almost all the way?
TORSION ALL THE WAY BACKED OUT AND FRONT STRAPPED
To answer your question, e-lockers are great and they really show their worth on a loose track.

WHAT YA THINK? WAY OFF?

If everyone else made it go OK, then I'd have to believe it was your tires not hooking. Nothing else seems way off.

One thing I would question is your weight. My CC/SB takes about 800# ballast to make 8000#, so yours should take even more (300# difference between the EC and CC I think).

I think getting the BFGs should make a noticeable difference. If you can choose a pull with a nice "power" track, you'll be able to tell what's going on a lot better. Loose tracks can play with your head.

Just for reference, a lot of Dodge guys will run a gear on a loose track that's getting close to our 4th gear low. Instead of digging holes they spin 'em hard and run off with the sled.

One other thing that really helps is video. As a puller, you don't get to see much, but going back and watching the tapes of myself versus everyone else has been really enlightening. Watch all the trucks and pay attention to how they're being driven and how successful they are.

We had a Ford buddy with some bad hopping and the slo-mo video really revealed a lot.

And personally, I have yet to see where six wheels is worse than 4.

If everyone else made it go OK, then I'd have to believe it was your tires not hooking. Nothing else seems way off.

One thing I would question is your weight. My CC/SB takes about 800# ballast to make 8000#, so yours should take even more (300# difference between the EC and CC I think).

I think getting the BFGs should make a noticeable difference. If you can choose a pull with a nice "power" track, you'll be able to tell what's going on a lot better. Loose tracks can play with your head.

Just for reference, a lot of Dodge guys will run a gear on a loose track that's getting close to our 4th gear low. Instead of digging holes they spin 'em hard and run off with the sled.

One other thing that really helps is video. As a puller, you don't get to see much, but going back and watching the tapes of myself versus everyone else has been really enlightening. Watch all the trucks and pay attention to how they're being driven and how successful they are.

We had a Ford buddy with some bad hopping and the slo-mo video really revealed a lot.

And personally, I have yet to see where six wheels is worse than 4.

Thanks for all the info!!!

On the ballast lbs that is all I had that night. I didnt think that I wanted to get all that extra lbs in the truck/cab/box for that it would be that much more to carry. So i just usually put in enough to try and keep the front end down since you cant have any hanging weights. Am i going about the lbs. all wrong?? this is an 2500hd ext cab s.b. I ran the scale right before last pull and was at 6700 with 1/4 tank of fuel?

You need to add weight to get close to 8000 and get an elocker then you'll hook up much better.

WHOSE BY BEST SUPPORTING VENDOR FOR AN ELOCKER???

AND THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE INFO+++++++++;) :ro) ;)

A page or two back you guys were talking about unhooking the Mass Air sensor. What is the advantage to doing that and are there any precautions when doing it?

If you're not running a large aftermarket turbo, I don't think you'd see much change.

The bigger chargers blow the MAF off scale.

WHOSE BY BEST SUPPORTING VENDOR FOR AN ELOCKER???

AND THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE INFO+++++++++;) :ro) ;)

Try Merchant Auto and/or Kennedy Diesel.

I know Kennedy at one time offered them with the new bearing pressed on, if you don't have a press. If you plan to install it yourself, it would be good to get it from a supporting vendor, because the instructions that come with it are sparse and you may need to call a human with experience.

We used a paint stick to verify correct meshing after setting the backlash with a dial indicator. We then sealed it up with GM's red anaerobic sealer and that stuff works great. You do have to drill the housing for the wires going to the locker.

A competent weekend mechanic can do the job, but it's not what I'd call a real simple job. It's heavy and I don't know if I would do it by myself without a lift or tranny jack. It took two of us to wrestle it around.

Oh yeah, you being 1300# light is way way off. You need all the ballast you can get. I'm surprised the scale guy didn't chuckle. Or maybe he did after you left. ALWAYS go to the scales a little heavy and give up as little as possible.

Try Merchant Auto and/or Kennedy Diesel.

I know Kennedy at one time offered them with the new bearing pressed on, if you don't have a press. If you plan to install it yourself, it would be good to get it from a supporting vendor, because the instructions that come with it are sparse and you may need to call a human with experience.

We used a paint stick to verify correct meshing after setting the backlash with a dial indicator. We then sealed it up with GM's red anaerobic sealer and that stuff works great. You do have to drill the housing for the wires going to the locker.

A competent weekend mechanic can do the job, but it's not what I'd call a real simple job. It's heavy and I don't know if I would do it by myself without a lift or tranny jack. It took two of us to wrestle it around.

Oh yeah, you being 1300# light is way way off. You need all the ballast you can get. I'm surprised the scale guy didn't chuckle. Or maybe he did after you left. ALWAYS go to the scales a little heavy and give up as little as possible.

he did and said I better go find more but my buddy that i was using his wieghts from was in the other lane pulling his tractor

Thanks agian for all the info!!!

wheres a good place to stash if there is to be no hanging weight? any where in the cab that you can get them ?

Running weights in the cab is a no-no at many clubs. However, if you're not "in the money," the chances of getting teched typically go way down. Read your local rules. If there is nothing specifically preventing it, you can probably do it. If it's unclear, it's a coin toss.

All the way in the front of the bed is about all you can do if they can't go in the cab. A toolbox works well for many folks because being in there generally meets the requirement of being "securely fixed".

thanks for all the info again++++