Rusty Brakes [Archive] - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

: Rusty Brakes


fernhoe
06-28-2006, 06:21 AM
Hi All,

Kentucky600
06-28-2006, 06:34 AM
Yes you are not the only one that has rusty brakes.

fernhoe
06-28-2006, 06:45 AM
Hi, sorry but I hit enter before finishing my post. I had to have my front rotors turned at 12,000 km's. They told me that I don't use the truck enough. I admit that during the winter I use it mainly as a passenger vehicle, with all my towing during the summer. I took the truck to Florida in March, no problems. The engine provides so much braking, even with the trailer, that you don't use the brakes hard. Will I have the same problem every year? I'm not thrilled with having my rotors turned so early! Any suggestions? Any others with the same problem? I do use the truck almost every day in the winter, except maybe weekends. I am amazed at how bad the front started to shake due to some rust. They told me they were not warped.Thanks

number9
06-28-2006, 07:21 AM
Yep, my stock rear rotors were horrible but have been fine since I replaced them with NAPA rotors. My front rotors will be replaced very soon due to rust as well. I got pads and rotors both from NAPA after reading several guys on this forum liked them and I have been pleased. On my last truck I spent lots of $$$ on aftermarket brake kit and wasn't happy with the praised performance I was expecting.

speedfiend
06-28-2006, 09:42 AM
I'm gonna try braking with the engine pulling for the last half mile home when it's wet to help dry 'em off in the garage. I never wear out brakes, just rust them.

speedfiend
06-28-2006, 09:53 AM
Hey did anyone ever turn your own rotors? I remember as a teenager putting a sanding disc on the angle grinder and going at 'em.

Mark Craig
06-28-2006, 10:51 AM
fernhoe,

Pretty common on the GM's for some reason. The shaking is usually related to rust that collects int he vent holes, it creates a heat pocket that then warps the rotor. If you have a place turn them that really cares they will run a rod thru the holes to clean it out and it won't usually re occur again unless you let it sit for a while. If it gets to be a major PITA then get some Powerslot rotors, they are 100% mil spec cadium plated and won't rust except where you wear the cadium off of the pad surfaces. They are also pretty much a lifetime rotor too if you get the Cyro'ed ones. Makes a world of difference etc. If you have any questions on them call us.

Mark @ DPPI

BlackMax Canada
06-28-2006, 06:14 PM
I'm usually better at looking after my brakes than lately, but on my 05, they were starting the famous rust on the outer edge (3/4") and pitting in the middle, etc, etc. They were soon to get worse. So I was going to pull them off, turn em down and clean the slides, grease, etc. then a buddy said GM is good for brakes till about 35,000km (mi ?????). I brought 'er in and the dealer turned them down for me and done the whole brake service under warranty. Thanks to GM and my dealer. :)

My full plan was to take the OEM's off before they were toast, put a reasonable set of aftermarket on, but turn the OEM's so to have a spare set in the garage for next time I needed to do brakes. As long as you look after the pins and slides, that stuff can go forever.

...I know its not all new stuff, but stops like new again. Never noticed it faded off that much in a year.

Stainless Steel Brakes are in my future though...

tonyjames28
06-28-2006, 08:01 PM
my brakes have just gone bad, but i have 149,000 on the truck. rusty just like everyone else's. i am only using half the pads, the center half that is. i am going to go with either napa rotors( american made not imports) or a set of power slots( i can get them at jobber price). not sure what pads to go with though. looking at hawk, but i dont want brake dust. the factory pads didnot dust. are the factory pads ceramic or not? i had some people say they were and some say the were not. what do you guys recomend for pads.

fernhoe
06-29-2006, 10:23 PM
Thanks to everyone for the responses. I quess I'm not alone. The rust they showed me was on the outer 1/4" of the rotor, both sides. I always thought the pads sat totally flat against the rotors. If that was true, I would not expect a rust build-up at the edges. Do the pads not push evenly on the rotor? After they tried burnishing the brakes at my first visit, it was obvious that the pads had rubbed away some of the rust, but the shake was still bad. I will ask about the rust in the holes and see what response I get. I'll have to let the warranty deal with it for now and make a decision on replacements when it has run out. The warranty has covered everthing so far. Maybe they will get too thin before it runs out! Will they give me new ones then?

number9
06-29-2006, 11:00 PM
Looking back at my maintenance log, when I replaced the rear brakes I used NAPA ceramic $59 pads & NAPA United $79 rotors and have been happy with them so far - have about 4500 miles on them.

Here's what my rears looked like with only 36,000 miles on them.

okeehandyman
06-30-2006, 08:27 AM
I live on the ocean in florida and have had the rust problem on every truck I have owned while here. The dealer always asks if I park in puddles or something. Guess next rotor replacement will have to be with other than OEM rotors. Thanks for the info.

Scott2500hd
06-30-2006, 11:26 AM
The rust does show up more for a truck that sits. But is far worse on a truck that sits in winter and is only driven a few times. The salt is the culprit in our area. I am lucky enough to have a heated garage and a 1998 gas job to drive in winter.

My truck goes in around November and comes out in March or April. Its tough not to take it on some quick rides. My father on the other hand has been through 3 winters and 40,000 miles on original rotors and pads. He has the luxury of hot water and a pressure washer where he works and gives them a good blast every storm or at least once a week in winter.

Between that a good caliper services and maintance we will see how many Vermont winters we can get out of them. Im sure the brake rotor issue will never go away but there are always ways to extend the life a little.

As far as using after market we install both. Needles to say I dont see any benefit by going factory. The cheap stuff works just as well.

ockgator
06-30-2006, 08:58 PM
Glad I live in Fl cause my rotors don't rust. Yes the OEM pads are ceramic, replace with same.

As for replacement rotors, buy name brand, first line parts... they may cost a bit more but you get what you pay for.

58000 miles and never turned a rotor... yet, just checked them tues and still have around 50% pad wear left, this with towing GN all over

C.A.P
06-30-2006, 09:14 PM
I have 49,000 and mine are starting to squeal . I think it is the pads but the rotors look rusty . Ill look at them in the am and get a better Idea of what needs to be done.

number9
06-30-2006, 10:08 PM
Ill look at them in the am and get a better Idea of what needs to be done.

If they are like mine were, the outside of the rotor will look much better than the inside, so be sure to look back there.

C.A.P
06-30-2006, 10:30 PM
yes, after looking at the inside with a light and viewing the inside has about 3/4 inch to 1 inch pad contact. It is not at all like the out side. Where the pad is hits the rotor its not gouged ,but there is a rusty edge around the rotors , (lumpy too) Might just go and get Powerslots and pads and be done with it.