Hi,


I've got a 2500HD D/A with the standard Prodigy brake controller / GM Cable setup for my 5th wheel. I would like to know how I could go about verifying that the RV battery is being charged when I am hooked-up and towing.


Thanks in advance!


Paul

I have something similiar to this made by Fluke ...This are 20 bucks at sears ...





http://content.sears.com/data/product_images/034/82141/03482141000-dlv.jpg


It's pointed to the corrct setting ....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif Depending on your charger output if seperate then the OEM alternator (I dunno what you have for a setup) you should be able to check output at the battery .... The OEM alternator should be 14+ volts at the battery ....


Mac Edited by: Mackin

Do you use an inline fuse between the truck and batteries?


My old truck (2000 Z71) was wired to run the trailer lights along with charge the battery. Was a 30A fuse in the fuse box of the truck. With the new truck (it has a 40A fuse in the box) it blows the inline fuse as soon as I plug in. All lights etc work fine.





Any suggestions as to why it's blowing the inline between the truck and trailer batteries?

Do you use an inline fuse between the truck and batteries?


My old truck (2000 Z71) was wired to run the trailer lights along with charge the battery. Was a 30A fuse in the fuse box of the truck. With the new truck (it has a 40A fuse in the box) it blows the inline fuse as soon as I plug in. All lights etc work fine.





Any suggestions as to why it's blowing the inline between the truck and trailer batteries?








Most likely something is wired wrong. Take apart the plug in the camper. Maybe the ground is shorting out to the power wire.

I think I figured it out myself... If I look at the 7-pin connector on the truck (without being hooked to the rv) and I put my volt-meter across pin 4 (battery charge) and pin 1 (ground) and I have 14+ volts, I'm going to assume that the battery will be charging when the RV is connected.


Thanks for your help!


Paul

I don't see how it could be wired wrong since all other lights (brakes, turns etc etc) work perfect.


Unless the power/hot wire has changed location from 2000 to 2004??

I don't see how it could be wired wrong since all other lights (brakes, turns etc etc) work perfect.


Unless the power/hot wire has changed location from 2000 to 2004??








No. It is wired to code. Hasn't changed.

I don't see how it could be wired wrong since all other lights (brakes, turns etc etc) work perfect.





Well if you're blowing a fuse, something's causing too much power to be drawn through that circuit. Plain and simple.


Could be wired wrong, could be a short has developed, could be simply that the load on the other end is too much. It's really tough to try and diagnose problems over the Internet.


With electrical problems, it's always best to start from the beginning with the simplest steps, then move on. I'd suggest you start by disconnecting the power wire inside your trailer from where ever it hooks up first. See if it blows the fuse, if it doesn't just keep moving down the circuit until it blows when something else is hooked up.


If the power wire is disconnected in the trailer and it still blows the fuse on the truck, then you know it's between there and the UHFP. Do the same thing.


A lot of times problems can be picked up quickly because of experience or you just happen to see a damaged wire. When that's not the case, you just have to start from scratch assuming nothing.


If you're already familiar with trouble shooting techniques, I apologize for throwing this in, but I'd not seen a response to your last post so I thought maybe I could help....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif