Someone probably allready did this but I couldn't find the post.

I priced up seperate off the shelf cooling mod. components to see if I could piece it together for less and found I could not. I did find the lowest cost component was the 97 water pump. So for the cheap guy who can't spend the $350 to $450 for the complete cooling upgrade will the water pump suffice for right now?

This weekend my Suburban hit 230 in the mountains for a short period of time. No problems on the highways (stays approx. 200-210 at 70mph).

I looked in the FAQ section allready but it only describes the complete modification. There also seems to be dispute on the d-max fan vs. the fan clutch but both are more expensive than a water pump.

I did this not long ago and did a write up....

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76979&highlight=cooling+mods

pump - $75 (I think)
hoses - $50 each (upper/lower)
t-stat housing - $75

This weekend my Suburban hit 230 in the mountains for a short period of time. No problems on the highways (stays approx. 200-210 at 70mph).


Were you towing? If not you have other problems.

Were you towing? If not you have other problems.

Not sure if I understand your question about "other problems" but I am towing in Virginia. This weekend was the mountain areas of the Shenendoah valley.

In two weeks I will be towing to the Eastern Shore of Virginia.

I did this not long ago and did a write up....

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76979&highlight=cooling+mods

pump - $75 (I think)
hoses - $50 each (upper/lower)
t-stat housing - $75

Where did you find the t-stat housing for $75? I tried Napa, Autozone and Advance Auto and ended up getting a price from the dealer since none of them carried the t-stat housing. The dealer wanted over $240 for the t-stat housing.

No problems finding the water pump and I can get one for $44 reman. from Napa.

My prices are all in Canadian dollars....I got the housing from a wrecker....when you go to the wrecker ask if they have a 6.5 core from a 97+...if they do they would most likely be willing to part it out for a price...I found the one crossover for $75 locally and a wrecker about 1.5 hours away from here wanted $100 for one that they had...

a engine for 100, i can't get one here for les than 500, grab me one. lol

I was just referring to the crossover....not the whole engine...

EDIT on the previous post to make it sound better...:cool:

My original question BTW needs to be more clear, does the water pump alone help with the cooling situation? I was going to focus on just the water pump to limp through the summer and do the rest of the cooling mods next year or this winter.

Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks.

I asked the same question a while back and got 2 answers.

1. - Shouldn't do it because the single stat crossover is not built to withstand that kind of volume.

2. - Can do it because NickG has had it done for a few months now without a problem.

I decided to just do everything at once and not risk wrecking something.

My original question BTW needs to be more clear, does the water pump alone help with the cooling situation? I was going to focus on just the water pump to limp through the summer and do the rest of the cooling mods next year or this winter.

Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks.
The high GPM of the 97> newer pump has to pass someplace so you need to upgrade to the dual t-stat manifold IMO! Your radiator is big enough [take it out and clean it] but you need more air to scrub out the BTUs now passing thru the core at the greater GPM - so you must address the fan - and the OE fan clutch engages at too hi a temp - Don't make the mistake of others - just go to KENNEDYDIESEL.com and buy all the parts - His fan clutch WORKS!!!! The fan blade he stocks works - the rest of the parts are priced right - and you will have great service!
Kind Regards
Rick

I just did a write up a couple weeks ago with prices and where I got them all. I did:
water pump $90 autozone (new cardone)
crank damper $60 (new ebay)
crank pulley $57 (rockauto.com)
dual tstat crossover $115 (autopartsgiant.com)
new rad hoses $30 (autozone)
front main seal $10 (dealer)
timing chain $56 (autopartsgiant.com)
97 fan clutch $60 (autopartsgiant.com)
dmax fan $35 (autopartsgiant.com)
serpentine belt $15 (autozone)
thermostats 180 + 195 degree $10ea (autozone)
felpro timing gasket set $30 (autopartsgiant.com)

Check out my previous posts I have included pictures and hints as well as an accurate price and vendor list.

Have you checked the front bottom of the radiator for debris? I just did my 150k service, and while I was changing the radiator hoses I removed the radiator shroud and fan to clean the area underneath and between the radiator and A/C condensor. When I removed the shroud, I was shocked to see so much debris in front of the radiator. It was like someone took a bag of leaves and garbage and dumped it in the space between the radiator and A/C condensor. :eek: There was even remnants of a paper wasp's nest attached to the front of the radiator (fortunately no wasps present)! :eek: I would estimate about 40% of the front of the radiator was blocked with debris and wasn't getting any air flow.

There was so much debris I had to vacuum it all out with a shop vac. Then I blasted all the dirt out of the fins with an air compressor, then back flushed all the fins with a strong stream of water, and a ton of dirt came out.

It's amazing my truck didn't overheat with this much air flow blockage. I haven't towed any significant distance with it yet. The only thing I noticed was during heavy acceleration to 60+, or while climbing steep grades, the temps would climb rather rapidly from 190 to 210. I don't think I ever saw more than 215, but you could literally see the needle move up. As soon as you got off the throttle, it would go right back down to 190.

Anyway, if you haven't cleaned the front of your radiator yet, I highly recommend you check there first.

Have you checked the front bottom of the radiator for debris? I just did my 150k service, and while I was changing the radiator hoses I removed the radiator shroud and fan to clean the area underneath and between the radiator and A/C condensor. When I removed the shroud, I was shocked to see so much debris in front of the radiator. It was like someone took a bag of leaves and garbage and dumped it in the space between the radiator and A/C condensor. :eek: There was even remnants of a paper wasp's nest attached to the front of the radiator (fortunately no wasps present)! :eek: I would estimate about 40% of the front of the radiator was blocked with debris and wasn't getting any air flow.

There was so much debris I had to vacuum it all out with a shop vac. Then I blasted all the dirt out of the fins with an air compressor, then back flushed all the fins with a strong stream of water, and a ton of dirt came out.

It's amazing my truck didn't overheat with this much air flow blockage. I haven't towed any significant distance with it yet. The only thing I noticed was during heavy acceleration to 60+, or while climbing steep grades, the temps would climb rather rapidly from 190 to 210. I don't think I ever saw more than 215, but you could literally see the needle move up. As soon as you got off the throttle, it would go right back down to 190.

Anyway, if you haven't cleaned the front of your radiator yet, I highly recommend you check there first.

Thanks for the advice. I cleaned the radiator when I flushed it before towing season. Shop vac'd the muck and leaves.

I had the same problem last year towing up the steep mountains. Not really a problem on slow grades or highway. How much weight are you towing?

I had the same problem last year towing up the steep mountains. Not really a problem on slow grades or highway. How much weight are you towing?
My 18' boat; it's only about 3,000 lbs. with trailer and gear. I've only towed it short distances on totally flat land so far. But I plan to take it on a 400 mile trip to the Poconos in PA this summer which has a few decent hills on the way. Should be a good test for my newly cleaned out cooling system.

How much weight are you towing?I sort of needed to finish a job - it didn't look like too much - it wasn't loaded above the sides - but I rolled my little rig over the scale last week tipping at exactly 24K.... my Scrap trailer is good for 18K so stopping wasn't the issue. The Kennedy cooling upgrades keep my temp gauge at or just a hair over 180. Last week the evening temps were in the 90's but my grades are long and gentle!

Not sure if I understand your question about "other problems" but I am towing in Virginia. This weekend was the mountain areas of the Shenendoah valley.

In two weeks I will be towing to the Eastern Shore of Virginia.

What I meant was that if you weren't towing, you would need more than the cooling upgrade. Something would be wrong to get to those temps without something in tow.

cooling mods?

Yeah, they need a cooling down sometimes round here.

I swapped in a military hummer motor. It had the HO water pump on it w/ single t-stat crossover, so i just swapped over all my stuff, including single t-stat. I towed w/ it for the 1st time last night, 85 degrees, coolant temp never went above 200. seems fine to me.

There is a dual t-stat crossover on ebay right now:

Item number: 320000028647

Just did the upgrade to 97 version; so far the engine pretty much sits at 185; I seem to have more power and got 16.1mpg on last 250 miles versus 14 or less previously. I used the kit from SS Diesel Supply in Kenmore, NY- cost of parts comlete $499. Even during current heat wave ( 100 degrees!), the engine seems way cooler! Let you know what happens on an extended tow ( 1 horse and trailer) through the Rockies next week.