Hello guys. First off I have a rail kit of off a 2004 chevy short box & I now have a 2006 chevy short box (the 6'-6 box also) I have a 1993 dutchmen 33'-0 fifthwheel with the 13" extended Kingpin. I downloaded the manual for a 14k resse hitch & the rail kit. The directions say for a 2000 & new chevy, but the manual was made in 2003. I just would like to know if chevy switched the frame at all?. The direction tells me to locate the back rail from the back side of the rail 25 1/8" from the end of the box. Does that sound right you short box guys out there? Just looking for a double check. Once I have that then I can locate the front rail. Short box guys without the the slider adjuster is everything still okay or is it really tight? My dad had a short box dodge with the same hitch without the slider too, but different rails (looked the same) that he pulled this unit with & he did not have any problem, so I should be good to go. My next dilema is should I do it myself or bring it in somewhere. It looks pretty easy, except the one rail bracket on the bottom is located in the boxed in channel & there is no good access to get at it because of the gas tank. That might be the reseason I am going to have this done. :( Do you guy know what shops charge to do this? Thanks alot ahead of time.

1-3 hours is all it should take. Depending on labour rate $100-200 I guess. Do it yourself, it's not difficult.

if your planning on using your old hardware it might be hard. the boxed frame part takes bolts that have a ribbed neck. you pull them into the frame so no back up is required. but for about 50 bucks you can get a hardware kit (90 bucks for hardware and rails) with all new bolts plus a neat little tool to pull the bolts through the box frame. i was quoted 450 to put my own hitch in by all the local rv stores so i took it on myself. not hard at all. unless you have an air drill or a mag drill start really small with the bits and work up. also it can be done with a 1/2" bit but the 17/32" ( what the directions say to use) will keep you from having to get another bolt pulling tool mailed to you.

I have access to grade 8 bolts, which are better the grade 5 that come with the kit, so I will have all the hardware. I am just really scared to do that one hole by the gas tank from the top side. How would you hold the nut that would attach the rail through the top of the box. The nut would have to be in the box right or does it flip the other way??? I wish I could snap a picture of what I am thinking. Thanks for the response guys.

I will have to look at the bed of the truck again in the morning. I thought I had to bolt through the frame top. Maybe it is just through the sides of the frame & just the box above it. Is there clearance for the nut between the frame & the box? I am confusing myself so I am sorry, if I am confusing you guys too.:help: me. I will have to check tommorrow. Thanks.

When you drill the holes thru the rail it hits on top of the frame by the gas tank... you can also get a custom braket side kit for your truck P/N 50041 which is a no drill on the frame.

your rails bolt through the bed to a bracket. and if done by the instructions it wont hit the gas tank. then the bracket bolts to the frame. you should have 4 brackets 2 long and 2 short. the front brackets are the ones in the boxed area of the frame. the back drivers side you should have to un clip some wired before drilling but you can reattach after you suck the bolt into the frame. the frame bolts arent just a bolt. the neck has a rib and the head is round because the ribs bite into the frame so no need for a back up.

"your rails bolt through the bed to a bracket." So I bolt the bracket to the bed. Then on the side I bolt the bracket to the frame only?

It is a shoulder bolt, so I do not need a nut??? I am confused by that statement

the neck has a rib and the head is round because "the ribs bite into the frame so no need for a back up."


I will have to look into that kit P/N 50041 too. Thats for all the help boys.