I'm in the process of installing Lubrication Specialist's new oil cooler lines and oil cooler. I'm almost finished, and I test ran the motor and happy to report no leaks :D Not a fun job by any stretch of the imagination (oil mess all over the place, fittings on side of block nearly impossible to turn a wrench on with no room to work, working upside down for hours at a time, had to cut old lines to remove, etc.). I also replaced the oil adapter O-rings while I had it apart, although the old ones weren't in bad shape.

Anyway, I have two questions:

1 - The new lines coming off the block are just above the oil filter, and seem to be VERY close to the exhaust manifold. Like 1/4" away from touching it. I know these are braided SS, and rated for 500F, but is this OK so close to the manifold? I haven't installed the brackets yet to the engine mount - maybe that will help keep them down away from the manifold? I can't see any other way to route the lines. If I angle the fittings down more, then the lines will hit the oil filter. I'm thinking of buying some heat shield tape and wrapping the lines in that to protect them better where they are close to the manifold.

2 - I made a completely idiotic mistake when installing the new oil cooler. I tightened up the lines, and installed the oil cooler on its mounting brackets, then test ran the truck. Then while checking for leaks, I realized I installed the oil cooler backwards on the mounting bracket, so it was sticking too far out from the radiator, and I wouldn't be able to get the grill back on. When I went to turn the oil cooler around, I didn't loosen the hoses so they could pivot, and when I turned the cooler around, one of the hoses got a kink in it from being twisted. Censored :( Apparently the stainless steel mesh covering on the hose has a memory, and while I tried to straighten the kink out, it still looks a little indented on one side of the hose for about an inch. I don't think it is restricting flow anymore, and when I test ran it again, the oil pressure was fine and the same as before. But, it's not perfectly round either. Is this OK, or do I have to replace the line now? Is there any way to pull the stainless steel mesh back out to straighten it without damaging the hose?

I am so pissed at myself because I had done such a nice clean install job, and then did such a stupid mistake at the end. :(

Thanks!

If you can get a long rod with a SMOOTH rounded tip, (same exact size as the interior of the line) you could lube it and slowly push it thru to pop the line open. I wouldn't do much more than that. The key is lubed, slow, and smooth.

1. Yeah I was concerned about that too.

A. I put some sleeving over my oil cooler lines to help insulate them and used some of that high temperature aluminized or foiled backed tape to help reduce radiant heat absorbtion.

B. I have always questioned the 90 degree 4x4 adapter location tucked up near exhaust manifold, cross over, and crowded by the front differential. Seems to me its fairly hot there and the filter absorbs some heat. So oil flows to cooler then gets warmed back up passing through the filter ???? Maybe it only does a little and helps ensure the filter doesn't get too cold in winter to reduce flow and allow oil to bypass the oil filter ??? I don't know but think a remote mount helps the oil run cooler.


2. I used high temperature hydraulic lines SS braid with what ever that harder plastic like liner is. They are not very flexible and can snap and crease if you bend them too much. Kind of like a drinking straw will crease and or break if you try and bend it too much. Bad part is I was told they can break and/or cause a weak spot since you can't see it through the SS braid you don't know how bad it is until the leak happens. I don't know if the ~ 80 psi possible from the oil pump is strong enough to blow it out but I think it can.

:confused: Hopefully someone else will confirm this or give more first hand experience and I hate to say this but I think once you kink those lines they are not good anymore. Maybe you have different lines than mine. But I would look into it.

They are not very flexible and can snap and crease if you bend them too much. Kind of like a drinking straw will crease and or break if you try and bend it too much.

To clarify they are flexible and you can coil them into a loop but its the sharpness of the bend thats important. They can only bend to certain radius. The radius is not as tight as normal "soft" hydraulic hose. I was told if you hear them make a snap or pop noise trying to bend them a little bit tighter then they are damaged.

Again not sure if you are using the same lines. Good luck.

If you can get a long rod with a SMOOTH rounded tip, (same exact size as the interior of the line) you could lube it and slowly push it thru to pop the line open. I wouldn't do much more than that. The key is lubed, slow, and smooth.

Sounds dirty:joke:


I tore mine down last night, and am having lines made this morning. The LS lines per Greg's web site are 500 degree rated. The harder plastic lines are 1000. I am going to use the 1000 degree rated lines and see how it goes.

The consensus seems to be to make the lines 4 foot long, has anybody had any problem with this length?

i made mine 4ft. 1 will be perfect and 1 was a little short. it still reached ok but i wish it was 3 or 4 inches longer.

Thanks for the tips. I tinkered with the lines again last night, and angled the block fittings down a little more towards the oil filter. The lines are close to the filter, but are not touching it, and by angling them down this way, they are sitting slightly further from the exhaust manifold. I also installed the rubber clamp that came with the kit on the engine mount, and it seemed to help hold the lines down a little better away from the manifold too. So I think they're OK now. I'll probably put some heat insulation wrap on them soon anyway as a precaution. Since heat rises, and the lines are below the manifold, I don't think it will be too much of a problem.

As for the kink in the line, I think I'm going to just leave it and take my chances. Although there may be a slight restriction, I don't think it is causing a loss of oil flow or blocking pressure. Worst case, I'll be shopping for a new Peninsular 6.5TD. ;) OK, J/K - I don't want to go there.

Well Stingray you are not alone. When I installed mine I mounted the cooler backwards also. I just cut the grill to fit. Once those lines were charged with oil I just was not about to open them again.
When I mounted the lines I also installed a remote oil filter to get it away from the U joint on the front drive shaft. Now when I change the oil I do not have to cover the joint or do the twist. Picture on my web site below.

Well Stingray you are not alone. When I installed mine I mounted the cooler backwards also. I just cut the grill to fit. Once those lines were charged with oil I just was not about to open them again.
When I mounted the lines I also installed a remote oil filter to get it away from the U joint on the front drive shaft. Now when I change the oil I do not have to cover the joint or do the twist. Picture on my web site below.

What do you mean?, thats how my front u joint gets lubed!:joke:

My lines are all done, got a 16 A-N fitting to fit the stock cooler, with adapter to the 8 A-N female fitting on the lines I had made. Was able to re-use the stock clamp in the same location on the motor mount.