Ok, So I installed the EGR blocker plate and CAT delete about a month ago. I noticed that it takes way more pedal to move the turbo. I read another post where the guy reseated it the plate and his problems went away. I did the same, verified no leaks, and nothing changed.

I removed the blocker plate today and wow, spools up fast as hell. It's a real smooth spool until about 25, hangs there for a sec then boom 30-31. ( i have a boost stick) My max with the plate in is 25.

Any suggestions would help tremendously. Attached it picture of the blocker plate.

sounds like you had a boost leak around the plate. just a guess

Looks like it too. At 2:00 and just before 9:00.

Only 25psi with boost stick?stock should be 21-22 and close to 29-30 with stick.Better check intercooler clamps and boost guage port for leaks as well.FYI the extra boost without the blocker is hot sooty exhaust.Not good for motor IMHO.

Looks like it too. At 2:00 and just before 9:00.


Any tips to get a tighter seal? Should i put a gasket on the other side as well?

you can try a second gasket, or just try putting it back in and making sure the bolts are tight.

Although I can't really tell, your plate looks pretty thin, cranking on the bolts might be enough. Thinner plates would make it easier to add a 2nd gasket, but ironically shouldn't need it as you should be able to crank the bolts down enough. How about cleaning that one up, crank it down as best you can and check those two spots in a week?

Clean the mating surfaces on the flanges. Then use a THIN coating of Form a Gasket copper on the non gasket side.

looks like a leak in 2 spots. fingers has best idea yet possibly inspect your mounting surfaces for damage to, or just buy the egr delete kit from PPE

There are MUCH cheaper ways of doing a full EGR-delete than the PPE intake manifold...

I forget what they want for it...300 bucks? :rolleyes:

Although I can't really tell, your plate looks pretty thin, cranking on the bolts might be enough. Thinner plates would make it easier to add a 2nd gasket, but ironically shouldn't need it as you should be able to crank the bolts down enough. How about cleaning that one up, crank it down as best you can and check those two spots in a week?

I cleaned the plate surface and reinstalled again. I put socket on the handle of my 1/4' socket for more leverage. Cranked it down as tight as I can get it. Boost is better then it was .. about 28 so there still aleak somewhere. Should i crank some more? is there a fear of overtightening?

- Fingers, what do you mean use a thin coating of form on the non gasket side. I have the blocker on the firewall side of the factory copper gasket.


Thanks guys.

Install the plate. Go drive it around and get it nice and toasty. Let it cool down good. Start her up and do it get it toasty again. Then recheck your tightness on your bolts.

- Fingers, what do you mean use a thin coating of form on the non gasket side. I have the blocker on the firewall side of the factory copper gasket.


Form a Gasket Copper is available at the parts store.

Just installed my plate today. Major pain in the a**!! After I got the nuts off.(about an hour or two....lost count) I had a hell of a time spreading the gap to fit the plate. Fought with that for another couple of hours and finally realized the slots were not cut right in the plate. Opened the slots up and started to get it seated only to realize the the plate wouldn't go all the way in. Pry the gap open some more and finally got it in. Tightened it all up and .......major leak with nuts as tight as i could get them. Besides the gasket being damaged a bit from all of this, I believe the flange area is so tight that the flange angle change by adding the plate is whats causing the leak. I ended up having to remove the whole intake system just to get the old gasket out for replacement. Im not sure if and when I do replace the gasket if it will correct the misalignment issue of the flange with the plate installed. I will have to order parts mon. morning and retry.

Im not sure if this is something else I need to worry about or not but...

When the PCV tube was removed, I found it to be quite full of oil and also found oil down around the turbo where this system is plumbed to.

Any ideas or thoughts on these issues will be greatly appreciated.

sorry you had issues, I feal bad that mine went so well. I still dont have any cel lights.

Flyntodd, maby buy 2 gaskets and install the plate in the middle.

Good luck everyone
Todd

It also looks like not only 9 & 2 o'clock, but a major leak from 11 to 1 o'clock as well

If you had to modify the plate, it was for an LLY. They are not compatable. My LBZ plates are plainly etch marked "LBZ".

Plate was etched "LBZ" :confused:

yeah, one side should have a laser inscribed LBZ marking. About 3/4 tall text, not hard to miss

The LBZ flange is much larger and the holes spread wider than the LLY. Which way did you have to trim? Where did you get your plate? There is an outside chance you have an LLY cooling tube on your truck.

Just bought the plate from Kennedy last thurs. Had to trim on the inside about .040" The production date on my truck is 04/12/06. Definately an LBZ. The trimming isn't really the issue here. The angle change of the flange is though. I will let you know after I order two new gaskets for it.

No, No, No. You miss the point, it is not the correct plate. For whatever reason, you have an LLY cooling tube. If you put the plate all the way down, it will not seal. (there is a lip in the way down there) Even with gaskets. Lets get the correct part to you.

sent P.M.

Todd's cooler is an LBZ. I confirmed that with pictures he sent me. We are working through why he is having a fitup problem.

He has managed to damage the gasket. :bummer:

I hope to update the instructions here soon. Till then, I have two tips when installing the plates. One is to ease the bottom edge of the plate so it has less chance of catching the gasket. The other is to use a screwdriver to keep the flanges spread as much as possible while inserting the plate.

Good to know. I ordered my plate/stick yesterday and may hold off on installing until further notice.

I don't think you will have any problems.

Todd's cooler is an LBZ. I confirmed that with pictures he sent me. We are working through why he is having a fitup problem.

He has managed to damage the gasket. :bummer:


I have one just lying around, where should I mail it? :)

Now this is what i'm talkin' about!!! This site rules!:ro)
Talking about hooking a brother up.

This is a P.M. I just got regarding my egr issue.
:thankyou2
Re: EGR Gasket??
Todd,
Send me your address, I'll get it in the mail tomorrow. I am not going to ask you to spend $.39 to send me $.39!

I only bought it so Jon (Fingers) could cut out plates and it was only like $8. Turns out we did mine with tin snips and some scrap I had laying around so I don't even have a "real" plate.

Tom

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyntodd
Hello,

How much would you want to ship that gasket to me?

Thanks in advance,

Good to know. I ordered my plate/stick yesterday and may hold off on installing until further notice.

No need to hold off, many people including me have installed w/ no problems :grd:

Mine was a pain in the *** to get the outside nut loose and then getting it spread apart was a real pain. It is now in and looks like i have a small leak at 12 oclock! Bummer , now i gotta pull it apart again!?!
It did seem to take care of the codes and i think it spools up quicker unless that is just in my head...

retorque the flange with the engine hot.

retorque the flange with the engine hot.

I still need to do that but i keep forgetting.

Quick update: :thumb:

I got the same thing going as i cannot get the blocker plate to fall all the way down as it seems the spread for the bolt pattern is too small got blocker plate for lbz this past week from kennedy , picked up truck friday and tried to install sat

Try grinding the slots a bit wider on the inside edges. I had the same problem. Dont force it.

I am having same problem. I spent 9 hours yesterday installing FS and attempting to install BP. I even completely took out the 3 bolts at the exhaust manifold to get more movement of pipe. Enlarged the slots a lot and it still will not go in. I did my LLY easily but not this LBZ. 103 degrees, 9 hours and hand all sliced up and still no BP installed. I would pry the pipe back as far as it would go and I could get one side of BP all the way down but not the other. When trying to get the other side to go down it, it would but made the other side come back up.

What is happening fellas, is the bottom of the plate is catching on the bottom of the hole in the flanges. Not the studs. You have to spread the bottom apart more. And yes, I know it is a pain.

The slots on the '06 plate should be approx 3 1/4" OC. The earlier plates were approx 2 3/4"

Smooth the bottom edge of the plate, run it over a wire wheel on the side that will be twards the firewall and next to the gasket. Round it over a bit. Then spread the flange with a small screw driver and pust it in. It helped to work one side at a time(prying between the cooler side flange and the plate a bit) on one side and try to push it down.

Haven't tried to install mine yet. Based on this thread I think I will take it down to the dealer and have him remove the engine so I can get at it. :D

:funnypost