Can anybody tell me what is the best LISLE filter tool to use for removal of the fuel filter. Earlier some people discussed one that appeared to be the LISLE tool, part no. 635000. It consists of a square tube with a strap loop fastened near one end and and has pressure put on it with either a 1/2" rachet or a 3/4 open end. Apperently this tool is used from the top of engine after removing the wire connection on the bottom of the filter. Appreciate any commentss on this tool or others. Riight now that filter looks like a bear to take out. LISLE tools are pictured on thier web. Bill

I had a hech of a time getting my filter off. I unpluged the wires to the bottom and used a oil filter wrench to get it off from the top. I later found that the inner wheel wel panal on the passanger side can be removed for easy access to the filter. Good luck and get ready to smell like a diesel pump.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif You can buy a filter wrench at any parts store like Napa or Pep Boys.

I have the same strap wrench and have changed my filter from the top a couple of times with it. I also have riv-nuts for the liner so I can pull out the line in about 30 seconds. Either way works, but neither way is spill proof. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif

Guess I was lucky. Wore latex gloves, drained a little water (actually fuel) out of the bottom, detached the leades, took the fill cap off, reached down and gave it a twist and it broke loose without a problem The latex gloves really helped grip the filter though. Spills? yah http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif

I have the same strap wrench and have used it from top and thru fender well. I always use caution on re-install, since I have problems gripping the filter with my hand, is to be sure the bar is against the top lip of the filter to prevent crushing the can. I use the strap just to put a little oomp on the filter to be sure it is snugged up. Haven't had a problem doing this.


The hardest part for me is the electrical connector because I have to do it one handed. I take the wire harness out of the clip on the head. I wish they would use a connector without the lock on it or make the wire a little longer. A small guy can get into the wheel well on top of the tire and do it but not me at 6'2" and 280.


Tom

I'm kinda partial to this one. Got it at NAPA. It has K-D Tools etched on the chrome piece. You can use 3/8" or 1/2" square drive on opposite ends of the chrome piece. The nylon strap is two inches wide and you could pull a Duramax with it. It handled the original oil filter just fine with a two foot long torque handle.


I change the fuel filter from the top. Don't touch anything.


Hmm, that didn't work very well. Ok, we'll paste in a link.


Cool Tool (http://mywebpages.comcast.net/gwmayes/DCP_0455.JPG)





Edited by: gwmayes

That looks awfully similar to the one that I got from Matco Tools. The part number for the one I got is OFS278 and can be seen in the link below.





http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2125&page=4&#28510

I have the same strap wrench and have changed my filter from the top a couple of times with it. I also have riv-nuts for the liner so I can pull out the line in about 30 seconds. Either way works, but neither way is spill proof. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif





What are RV- nuts, where do I get them? I'm 75, 6', 240 lbs, a little stiffand numb fingered so taking out that side panel sounds like the way for me to go. Don't mind a little clean dirt like off the wheel or diesel oil. My wife says it takes 2-3 washings of my clothes to get the smell out.

Riv Nuts are pop rivets that are threaded. I replaced all the fittings in my wheel well with them and then used stainless screws and washers to fasten the wheel well liner back in place.





Look here:


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=1210

So far I've been able to do all (7 I think) by hand with latex gloves.(except for the first one of course). I open the bleeder screw and drain the filter first so there is no spill. BTW I attach about a three ft piece of windshield washer hose to the drain so if I ever have to drain it on the side of the road I would get no fuel on the frame and strip off the undercoating. I've also not been able to drain my filters without opening the bleeder screw to break the suction. I also use an O-ring assembly lube on the O-rings, maybe thats why I can get them off easily?

I have the same strap wrench and have changed my filter from the top a couple of times with it. I also have riv-nuts for the liner so I can pull out the line in about 30 seconds. Either way works, but neither way is spill proof. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Disapprove.gif





What are RV- nuts, where do I get them? I'm 75, 6', 240 lbs, a little stiffand numb fingered so taking out that side panel sounds like the way for me to go. Don't mind a little clean dirt like off the wheel or diesel oil. My wife says it takes 2-3 washings of my clothes to get the smell out.

Here's my picture album of RivNuts...

Remember you can pick the pictures and they will enlarge. Also note the navigation arrows above the pictures...

RivNuts (http://www.uscom.com/~hoot/cars/duramax/gmc/rivnut/)

I haven't found any easy way to get them off, but a good little tip is to put a big zip lock bag over the filter. When you do spill (and you will) it wont drip all over. And diesel spills will cause rust.

hello all

The fuel filter is real easy to pull out from the top.. We use a strap wrench .. We have change 12 so far in our fleet
takes about 20mins .. Not so bad

From stevehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif