Are there any advantages to the K&N filters?





If my neighbor with an '04 Duramax likes them, will I with my '03?

Yes, more dust in your intake.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

yes, you will have to buy a tamperproof socket to remove that MAF to clean it all the time too.... So it will give you an excuse to buy more tools.

so let me get this straight, using a powerprogrammer, youll still have the same power gain with a stock filter as you will with a K & N?

dmaxalliTech- what are the symptoms of the dirty sensor?

Take the K&N out of the box in the store and look up through it at the overhead store lights. This should give you enough information to make a decision without further comment from me.-----http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil Smile.gif------Phil

I run a K&N filter on my truck and have on almost all my vehicle. Never had problem one. When properly taken care of, K&N filters will last forever and will allow more air flow to the motor for better performance. I have never had any issues with the MAF sensor.


I do however plan on going to the AFE Stage II with Proguard 7 filter this time just cause I like the way it looks. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

I agree with GMC2500HD, when properly taken care of, a K&N is a good filter to use. I too have used them on EVERY truck I've ever owned, and I never had to clean or replace a MAF sensor. I've personally owned 2 trucks that had over 100,000 miles on them with K&N filters on them the entire time I owned them. IMHO, just use what you like and have the best experience with. You'll definitly get alot of opinions from this post.

Trace, lack of power, SES light, smoke....


I think K&N gets a bad rap, but realistically its any oiled air filter that caution needs to be used on. I like to oil the filter, then let is sit and "drain" overnight before installing.

dmaxalliTech, if you don't mind me asking, what filter do you use? I'm not asking to be an a$$, just curious is all. I'm sure you see alot of differnt filters in your profession, so I trust your opinion.


By the way, do you ever go to the silverlake sanddunes?

I'm running a K&N on my 03 but am thinking of going back to paper. Changing my muffler and opening up the airbox did a lot more for response and quicker spooling of the turbo. Didn't really notice any change at all with the K&N.


That said...I used K&N in my old truck (5.7 gas) with no problems. I do notice the oiled filter gets dirty a LOT faster with the diesel due to all the air it's moving, all the time. I cannot imagine using the 50,000 mile intervals for cleaning/re-oiling. Of course I never ran one that long on my old gasser, either, usually cleaned it every 15-20K miles.


I oil it, let it sit overnight, then paper-towel off any excess oil. I've inspected the MAF on both old and current trucks and the intake tube and found no oily residue (or dust for that matter).


I agree that you can get into trouble with ANY oiled filter if you don't maintain it and/or over- or under-oil it.


Just my .25!


Fred G

dmaxalliTech, if you don't mind me asking, what filter do you use? I'm not asking to be an a$$, just curious is all. I'm sure you see alot of differnt filters in your profession, so I trust your opinion.


By the way, do you ever go to the silverlake sanddunes? I have the older Amsoil in mine. Switched to it about a year ago or a bit more. Was no Uni filters or anything like that when I went that way. FIgured I would try it and see. Didnt notice any real differences in any matter. Intake stays clean and I dont really go anywhere where it can get dirty/dusty. I have cleaned it twice, I use engine degreaser, let it dry in front of fan, then oil it heavy, then let it drip overnight before reinstall. No problems to date with it, I will likely stick with it as I have no reason to take it out.

I have the Amsoil filter too and I clean, dry, and lube it just like dmaxalliTech describes. I haven't had any sensor problems that I know of but the air box housing gets oil puddled in the bottom of it and it drips through the housing anchors and down the fender liner. Makes a greasy dirty mess. I kept my oem filter and I am thinking about going back to it.

Never had a problem with my K&N either. Like 2500HD said, I like the look of the AFE's also but from a performance standpoint (not like there is any) it isn't designed with cool air in mind. Since it uses a mettalic tube and a mettalic box, unlike the plastic of K&N.


I removed my filter many times and have never had any material or even dust for that matter in the intake tube. However, my truck did show a trouble code for the MAS, but never set the SES and I never had any performance problems associated with it. Just some smoke on start-up which I don't believe is associated with it, but I could be wrong. I hate that smoke now, looks like a PSD.


Jason

I run a K&N filter on my truck and have on almost all my vehicle. Never had problem one. When properly taken care of, K&N filters will last forever and will allow more air flow to the motor for better performance. I have never had any issues with the MAF sensor.


http://www.corvetteforum.com/zeroimg/smilies/iagree.gif


http://www.corvetteforum.com/zeroimg/smilies/iagree.gif


Have been running K&N's for years with only ONE problem when I first got it. Yes I over-oiled it and threw a code on an old '88 IROC Z28. After that I always bought 2 K&N's for each vehicle. One to run and one cleaned, oiled ready to go tied up in a plastic grocery sack. Gave it plenty of time to drain of any excess


Rough guess would be I have over 600,000 miles using K&N's on various vehicles with only the above problem.

HD Nate-


2 questions-


Where do I get the train horns and where did you hide them?

Hi, I'm a newbie and want to say thanks for all the information. I've been reading for awhile and finally registered.


I've been using K&N for years on everything from 4 wheelers to a Z71 that I had and the families 02' Suburban. I always use a red air filter oil after cleaning, but I clean and oil everytime after changing the engine oil in the evening so I guess it has time to drain overnight. The main thing I've found is too much oil is as bad as not enough.


This is my 1st diesel. It has 36,000 miles with no problems.


HOOKED FOREVER!!!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif


Charlie

I ran a K&N on my '02 for 70,000 miles and no problems. At 15k the high silica levels in my oil analysis caused the K&N to get deep sixed and the paper reinstalled. I can not tell any difference in performance between the two.

A lot of people have accidently run for thousands of miles using NO air filter at all "with no problems" also. If you run a K&N with no problems that DOES NOT mean you are being better to your engine (and wallet) than you would be running the paper. SPICER

Spicer,


How is it going?


Take some close up pictures of the K&N I sent you. That otta do it.

A lot of people have accidently run for thousands of miles using NO air filter at all "with no problems" also. If you run a K&N with no problems that DOES NOT mean you are being better to your engine (and wallet) than you would be running the paper. SPICER


And there a those who say they have NEVER changed their oil also and never had any problems





It also does not mean you are any worse to your engine. Forget the wallet bit, I'm not going to quibble over a air filter on a $48K truck.


I've had always had good succes with them and will stick with K&N. As stated above, I have a lot of miles on different type of vehicles with NO problems associated with the K&N. Edited by: HD-Nate

I have been running the k+n fipk on my 2002 Duramax for about six months now. No problem to date. I have even pulled off the filter and looked up the air intake to the turbo and it is clean as can be. My buddies been racing for a long time with a 1953 Lincoln. He runs a k+n cone filter, almost identical to mine and he says its worth a substantle gain in horsepower and 1/4 mile times. Being a drag racer from way back, he says he loses power when the filter starts turning black. He simply changes it and keeps racing. The biggest problem I see is the oil making it to the Map Sensor, simple solution by a new one twice a year and don't oil it. They come pre-oiled. I know they are expensive, but what is 100.00 dollars a year. I will change mine soon and put a new one in. My buddy claimes you loose 10% of the airflow everytime you clean one, because it isn't like new. Once the particles get clogged in there eventually you can't get them out. So just replace them, bottom line there a great filter, and I will continue to use them. Drive On!

Running VOLANT air intake in my rig. Great box, filter, tube and the relocation of the mass air sensor.


Here it is installed on my rig:


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/AEC_Volant_AirIntake_System_On_My_Rig.JPG

Pro Guard 7, lab results (independent) show that silica levels par with paper, yet flow more (not as much however as a k&n). See performance thread, "EGT's, Boost, etc.."


I found a greater difference in my EGT's dropping over 50 degrees or more.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/FA9_airbox_3.jpg