Sorry I hit enter on accident. Anyway, I didn't see anythin on here regarding brakes so I appologize if this is the wrong area. My 2002 Dmax needs brakes and rotors and I'm looking for recommendations on brands and where to get them. Thanks!

Stock replacement or aftermarket performance? Are you keeping the stock 16" rims?

SSBC ( www.ssbrakes.com (http://www.ssbrakes.com) ) and Wilwood are 2 companies that come to mind with performance brakes. You'll need larger rims for the Wilwoods but I think SSBC's site says it'll fit stock rims.

np

moving to Drivetrain, and fixed your posts.

ccreaso1,

Get some of the Powerslot cyro'ed rotors and Hawk pads. Major improvement on stopping distances, no fade and the rotors last and last. Call us if you need any info on them.

Mark @ DPPI

59K and new brakes? In all the years on this site I have never heard of anyone replacing pads that soon. Wonder what gives?

If its back brakes its probably rust. My back brakes and rotors were replaced at 65,000 miles due to rust. Big time pulse, rotors too bad to turn. My front brakes are 50% at 95,000 miles, looking at them, the rotors will go before the pads.

I got my 2002 last year with 35,000 on it. The rear brakes and rotors were already done and I had to do the fronts as soon as I got it. All related to the cheap metal that the rotors were made of. Eack rotor had about 1 1/2 iches of clean metal for stopping, the rest was rust.

I will say that I bought the heavy duty Raybestos brakes and I HATE them. My truck couldn't stop to save my life. I am going to put factory brakes back on it. My father has a 2005 2500HD 6.6 and his truck stops like a car.....now that's what I want. STAY AWAY FROM RAYBESTOS!!!!!

just did mine at 100k with stainless steel brakes www.ssbrakes.com (http://www.ssbrakes.com) and Hawk pads (they come with Hawk pads if you get the 4-wheel pkg)

love 'em.

stock rotors were TOTALLY shot in rear (rust, etc). fronts slightly better.

for what you'll pay GM for rotors, etc., get the stainless w/slots & coating

always get slotted rotors NOT drilled rotors if keeping stock sizes....drilled rotors reduce swept area and thus reduce braking effectiveness.

you can easily change fronts yourself if mildly mechanically inclined....save some shop labor.

rears on dually are difficult due to need to press out wheel studs...best left to shop or dealer.

if you're near 100k miles, might want to consider changing the wheel bearings while the rears are apart. can't hurt, and it'll cost large labor to get in there again to do the bearings.

I'm watching this thread. I've heard good on the Powerslots, but the people I've talked to that have used Hawk pads say they dust. ???

I am thinking some Powerslots and stock OEM pads for mine, I need something for the rear quick

I use factory pads with a good aftermarket rotor like wagners according to gm the rotors get rusty from the time they sit on the lot thats why usually only get rust on the inside.(not sure if I really belive that but thats what they tell us I still think it has to do with poor quality metal. but factory pads are the best.

my rotors are shot at 25k, all rusted to pieces, pulsates, truck doesnt stop good at all..... i will probly be going ssbc on the rears at least???

dmaxalliTech,

Eric,

The Hawks will dust, but that's Ok as that shows they are doing the job for you. Most folks want great brakes, no dust and long life all in one package. Can't get it all though. The pads job is two fold, convert kenetic energy into heat energy and dissapate that heat energy as fast as possible. The factory pads last so long because they are hard and an anvil, they usually ruin the rotor in fact prior to the pads being worn past 70% etc. The Hawk LTS compound will transfer the heat very efficiently and protect the rotor, in fact if you get Powerslot cyro'ed rotors it's likely you'll never buy a rotor again if you use the Hawk pads with them. The pads will get used up, but in doing so that keep the heat out of the rotor, makes it last and they stop very quickly too. But the down side is some dust. The ceramic and carbon metallic some folks promote are great for pad life, but again they are hard on rotors and don't stop as welll and usually have a higher fade percentage too.

Mark @ DPPI

I'm not saying that your idea is incorrect or bad but if the heat that was going into the rotors in the stock system now goes into the pads with the powerslot/hawk setup won't this transfer a lot of heat into the brakes hydraulic system? If so couldn't this cause the brakes to pump up a lot faster and maybe lose brake effectiveness quicker?

That being said on my old jeep I changed out the brakes to the powerslot rotors and some different pads (I forget now what I used) and they were way better than the stock setup.

I've used both Hawk Super Duty and EBC Green Pads. The Hawks were noisy and dusted like crazy no fade at all. When they wore I switched to the EBC Green pads. No noise and very little dust and an insignificant amount of fade. I run 7200 lb all the time no trailer.

I would use the EBC again.

Get the Wagner ThermoQuiet pads, you won't be disappointed.

at 107,000 miles I am just starting to need new rotors and pads on the back.
I've been advised not to go the ceramic pads, and advance auto parts had bendix pads and bendix drilled rotors.
Just came from being under truck, was going to throw on a cheap set of pads until I decided on rotors , but cannot get the torx bolt loose and don't want to strip it. I was told it was a # 50 torx , but it seems loose , I even drove out to sears hardware and largest they had was a 50 , are there larger ?

Get the Wagner ThermoQuiet pads, you won't be disappointed.
Those are good pads, my old dealer sells those for the aftermarket option. I've had good luck with drilled rotors with GM pads on my old stuff. Believe it or not, cheap organic pads from the parts store actually stop very well, they just don't last very long at all.

dmaxalliTech,

Eric,

The Hawks will dust, but that's Ok as that shows they are doing the job for you. Most folks want great brakes, no dust and long life all in one package. Can't get it all though. The pads job is two fold, convert kenetic energy into heat energy and dissapate that heat energy as fast as possible. The factory pads last so long because they are hard and an anvil, they usually ruin the rotor in fact prior to the pads being worn past 70% etc. The Hawk LTS compound will transfer the heat very efficiently and protect the rotor, in fact if you get Powerslot cyro'ed rotors it's likely you'll never buy a rotor again if you use the Hawk pads with them. The pads will get used up, but in doing so that keep the heat out of the rotor, makes it last and they stop very quickly too. But the down side is some dust. The ceramic and carbon metallic some folks promote are great for pad life, but again they are hard on rotors and don't stop as welll and usually have a higher fade percentage too.

Mark @ DPPI
Mark, I saw the rotors for a 3500 4x4 on your website, but no Hawk pads. I would hate to buy nice new Powerslot rotors and then use factory pads, especially after reading your post. Any options?
JP

Heartbeat Hauler,

Just redid the site and not everything is up yet, just call us we have them available. And yes you are right don't use the factory pads!!!!

Mark @ DPPI

ctgmcduramax,

Run from drilled rotors on our trucks, they tend to crack no matter how they are camfered as the heat build up in extreme use just kills them.

Mark @ DPPI

WAskier,

It's a balancing act, you need the pad to be a heat exchanger, but not the ONLY heat sink! The stock pads do a horrible job transfering heat, that's why they kill the rotors as they eat all the heat. So you need parts that will do both equally etc.

Mark @ DPPI

I put on Powerslot cyro'ed rotors and Hawk pads about 3K ago. I'm very happy!! The best my truck has stopped since new. I just wish that I had replaced the left front wheel hub at the same time...it is getting worse every day.

Check out the EBC brakes. They make ones called YellowStuff for Diesels. I bought them for $120 and they stop the truck on a dime and give back 8 cents in change. Customer service was awesome. The EBC manager said that if I didn't like them, send them back and he would refund my money and also labor times I had putting them in. How do you go wrong with that. I highly recommend them to anyone with a Duramax. YellowStuff for the fronts and GreenStuff for the rears. GreenStuffs also have less dust then a OEM brake (7000 series states almost 0 dust). Check them out, give them a try, you won't be disappointed!!!!

I also wanted to tell you guys that you HAVE to follow the Powerslot and Hawk bedding in procedure to the letter!! If you don't you'll have a chance of less efective brakes that could squeak some too. Every time I have ever had anyone say they had a squeak they went "HUH", when I asked them how they did the bedding in procedure etc. Like Nike says "JUST DO IT!"

Mark @ DPPI

Check out MOVIT brakes.

www.movit.de
www.movitusa.com

I have them on my vette and thinking about buying a set for my 2500 when i get new wheels.

rob

http://www.movit.de/images/hum16.jpg

http://www.movit.de/images/hum051hp.jpg

http://www.movit.de/images/hum14.jpg

Tazz-
Why do you suggest using yellow on front and green on the rear instead of using the same color all the way around? Is it because the front brakes are under a heavier load? Thanks.

not to cut in on Tazz's answer, but yes the front brakes get MUCH harder use. The brake bias is like 70%/30% (front/rear) or something like that...

I might look into the SSBC upgraded front calipers (the 3 piston ones that use stock size rotors) towards the end of the summer if I have the $$...

Whew! Local EBC supplier says it'll cost me $115 for the front yellows and about the same for the rears. Does that sound right just for pads?

the rear has a dampening porportion valve (think that is what it called) that allows more brake in the rear as load increase when unloaded little brake is used. my old 84 dually had the same ussuall three set in the front to one set in the rear course 120 per drum wasnt cheap

I'm wondering how having two different pad compounds between the front and the rear will affect the proportioning valve effectiveness. Does it rely on both pads having the same frictional properties?

Shawn

I just ordered powerslot cryo'ed rotors and the hawk pads for the front and back of my truck from dppi. I'll let everyone know what I think of them once I get them on.

Mark, can you please go into a little more detail on the bedding procedure.

I just ordered powerslot cryo'ed rotors and the hawk pads for the front and back of my truck from dppi. I'll let everyone know what I think of them once I get them on.

Mark, can you please go into a little more detail on the bedding procedure.

How long did they say it would to get them in? They told me 4 weeks :eek:

I just ordered powerslot cryo'ed rotors and the hawk pads for the front and back of my truck from dppi. I'll let everyone know what I think of them once I get them on.

Mark, can you please go into a little more detail on the bedding procedure.


I have also and they should be here shortly and I would like more info also,please :)

How long did they say it would to get them in? They told me 4 weeks :eek:

They told me 7-10 days. I hope it doesn't take 4 weeks.

You can put aftermarket pads on there as long they are the same as OEM. These trucks come standard with the ceramix pads. A lot of aftermarket claim there pads are ceramix but they are a combination of metalic and ceramix. I know NAPA sells true ceramix. I have bot some there before.
Bryan

anybody upgrade a 3500 daully yet ,my brakes suck with any kind of a load

Kurt,

It's not bad, basically and follow what comes in the box as I might have forgotten some of it! You get up to 35MPH or so and pull down on them as gard as you can and not lock them up. Do that 5 times and then again from 55 MPH. Do this whole deal a couple of times on different days and you're set!! Of course allow them to cool between stops etc.

You'll like'em, best non HP mod I ever made on my truck!!!

Mark @ DPPI

Thanks Mark, I look forward to getting the brakes. Now, if I could just get the truck moving on its own again I would have a use for them.

does anyone know if BAER Brakes has anything to offer for our trucks?

baer has rotors w/ 3 year warrenty

EBC needs to improve their delivery times. I ordered their pads from a local supplier their website recommends and now after 3 weeks and 8 phone calls to the local guy, (he never did call me) the pads still haven't arrived! Had to convince them I wanted the yellow for front and green for back. They tried hard to tell me I had to use the red on front- finally, tired of it all, I've given up on EBC. I'll call O'Reilly and have the Hawks in 2 days...

Zip from Tenn,

We stock the Hawks, and can get them drop shipped if were out of them too as well right here in little ole Tennessee, if that fails you .

Mark @ DPPI

Thanks Mark. Mine are done.