I don't have a floor jack or stand at home so I'll install the pre-turbo EGT probe tomorrow after work. I did get the pillar mount installed along with the boost gauge and the rest of the exhaust temp hardware.

Here's what I "discovered":

I'll likely not hook up the lighting as I don't tow at night. Just one of the things I avoid.

I'm able to get a max of 7psi boost under full throttle and see maybe 1psi at 60 mph steady speed. More curious, and something I hadn't expected, is that under my usual driving habits I never have ANY boost at all. I feel like cutting the "turbo" sticker off the hood!

Regardless of how far I press on the APP, I don't get any boost until 1800rpm and that's probably a good thing based on the transmission's desire to keep the torque converter unlocked at 1700rpm or below (or so I've read).

I'll also be adding the boost fooler about a week after I finish the gauges after I've developed a sense of how the exhaust temps respond to the current level of boost.

you don't need the floor jack to install that pre turbo sensor, just remove the inner passenger side fender. and you have complete access to the spot.

theres a how to on it somewere in here.....
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34248&page=1&pp=10

bingo

spencer

Can you not install it on the drivers side exhaust manifold?

Can you not install it on the drivers side exhaust manifold?

Yes.

I don't want to hijack your thread but I too am wanting to get some gauges installed and I was reading thru the instructions....

What's the purpose of starting the truck while drilling hole? Also -what are the chances that metal shavings are going to get blown/sucked into the turbo?

thanks
Paul

What's the purpose of starting the truck while drilling hole? Also -what are the chances that metal shavings are going to get blown/sucked into the turbo?

That's why the truck is running, so the chips will be blown out the drill hole. Safety glasses are a must.

Safety glasses are a must.

Oops...):h

Just fer grins, Maj, and a good test - connect the vacuum hose directly between pump and WG, compare results during your normal driving habits.

PCM digitally regulates Boost depending on power required - if you're not seeing much Boost, your truck may be very efficient, or you gotta problem, leak or otherwise.

I'll give it a shot. I'll try to find another pressure gauge so I can compare them. It'd be interesting to see how they map against eachother.

I do tend to drive like an old lady - mostly because I can't afford to replace the BlueBomb - and average 40 mph on the way to work with only about 1 mile done at 55 mph. The boost is there when I want it...just a pedal mash away.

Dan Hunter:
I just installed a boost guage on mine and it gets the same readings as yours. 7PSI wot and 0-1 psi normal. I haven't towed since I hooked up the boost guage so no feedback on that yet.

I am wondering if that is just the stock setting before any WG or boost foolers.

That's my assessment. Again, I can put the hammer down and generate boost but at "I'm paying for the fuel" speeds, I don't see much boost.

I used the EGT instructions/photos nvmtnlion posted. Worked great! The part I found most interesting was when I was drilling the final hole size prior to tapping. The metal shower coming off was impressive. Glad I didn't have that going through the turbine.

Any EGT observations, yet?

Regarding EGTs (and please note, I'm pre-turbo) I've found that it'll idle around 200 to 300 and then after that it holds 10 degrees for every mph (e.g. 35 mph equals 350 degrees) under moderate power acceleration and then drops to about mph X 6 through ranges up to 55mph - the highest speed in town. I tried a full throttle run over an overpass and was able to get it to 850. I'm comfortable with this and will put the boost fooler in tomorrow and look for changes. By the way, I've currently connected the EGT amp directly to the battery. Is this a problem and if so is there a better place?

Switched ignition would best, so amp can be powered down - orange wire, red wire, pink\white str, etc.

Pre-turbo is excellent choice - one of mine is in the driver's-side manifold, in the curve just above the x-over flange, other is in the downpipe, just below that flange.

Shows 2-300deg temperature differential, depending on loaded\.unloaded.

Your indications are comparable to mine.

Where under the dash would you put an add-a-circuit fuse holder?

I put both my amps in the hole behind the drivers side kick panel. It was tight, but they fit. You can come directly off the fuse panel with a switched hot (there are single blade terminals on the fuse block for that purpose) and with one coming from the dash lights for the guage lights. That way, when you dim the dash lights, the guage lights dim as well.

Cool!

I dont remember what terminals to use, I can look at my fuse block today at lunch.

Tim

My truck is the '80's square-body style, so I would suggest emulating Tim's installation - his '94 config should be identical to yours.

I mis-spoke. I dont come of the fuse block, I come of the distribution block under the dash. I came of the IGN terminal for switched hot, and I could not see well enough to get the other one. Ill get you the right terminal for the lights tonight.

Tim

I tapped my lights into the fuse marked 'pnl lmps' (panel lamps), they dim with the dash lights.....

I put an add-a-circuit into my ECM-IGN 10 amp fuse position using a matching 10 amp fuse in the EGT amplifier power supply. Now, with some residual heat in the turbo, at startup the gauge comes off of zero and proudly announces the temp. With this success, I'm rethinking illuminating the gauges off the instrument lights circuit.

That is where I power my instruments from Dan IIRC I put a link with pics in FAQ for it

Super! Gonna wire and shrinkwrap the lighting wiring and connect. Probably after the boost fooler. I'm still getting some cutting out at full throttle occasionally. I honestly don't want to think about it although when I do, I consider removing the filter harness and see what happens.