I am planning to get a Supertanks 75 gallon replacement fuel tank. Any feedback from current users or advice on the install ?

Thanks !

I have one and love it. Install was easy. Instuctions are very detailed. They thought of everything. All parts are included and lots of photos. I have installed two already. I didnt even need the instructions for the second one. Just make sure you empty the old tank before you try and remove it. Also have atleast 10 gallons of fuel to pour into the new tank, to get you to the gas station. Fuel gauge is still accurate. When the empty light comes on, there are still 10 gallons left in the tank.

Flduramax, any opinions about removing the fuel cooler?

Flduramax, any opinions about removing the fuel cooler?


Factory cooler is no longer removed. Prior to that, a replacement cooler, a finned "tube" was included in the kit to replace the OEM cooler. It worked great from what I am told.

Hey TTLS. Thanx for the info. I too, am looking into a tank. Somewhere else on this site it was said that Supertanks is coming out with a slightly smaller tank, without removing the cooler.

Well, I took the plunge on Tuesday. After a lot of time and effort, I finally got my 32 gallon factory fuel tank replaced with a 75 gallon Supertank. Wow, it's really big !

My impressions are:
1). Very robust and well constructed -- much thicker plastic than the factory tank. Better skid plate too.
2). Did I mention really big ?
3). Replacement fuel cooler also seems solid. I would guess that it offers better cooling than the factory cooler.
4). Does not hang down much below running boards.
5). Install took a good mechanic 4.5 hours. Said that it was harder than they expected to install.
6). Need to add at least 10 gallons to prime new tank -- mechanic ran out of fuel with a couple of gallons due to sloshing over the large surface area of the tank bottom.

Filled it with 75 gallons of fresh diesel. Drove 200 miles. Needle did not move. I wish they were standard.

Diesel Dad, thats good to know. Thanx.

Is the 75 gallon for the Shortbed? If not, what's the largest for the shortbed?

62gal is for the short bed crewcab.

They make two versions. For use with the factory cooler, the cutaway between front and back is larger and the tank holds 5 gal. less. For the extended cab shortbed they're 58 and 53 gallons. I just put the 53 gallon on mine. These tanks are really beautifully made. They also make the Rapid Hitch for towing. A billet aluminum towing hitch with reversible ball, and it's a polished work of art......almost too pretty to use.

If you have a shortbed, I'd make a trip to the CAT scales before adding more fuel to the truck.

My 2500HD was overweight without an extra 30 gallons of fuel. But now that I have a 3500, bring on the diesel ...

My father-in-law spoke to some OTR truckers who said that they only carry 200 litres / 50 gallons because they are carrying heavy loads and don't want to get nicked.

Just think, my little 3500 with more fuel than a semi.

Thanks for all the input........http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Can someone who has one of these tell me what the actual usable capacity is? FWIW I am looking at the short bed crew cab model. Anyone out there using this tank currently that could give me some actual user insight?


I had a Transfer Flow on my last truck and although the company called it a 45 gal tank I would suck air at 36 gal due to the fuel sloshing over the large surface area. The tank was a work of art, very well constructed and fit perfectly but it would only hold 36 usable gallons. On top of that I always kept about a 2 gal cushion to keep from running out which meant I only used 34 gal on a regular basis. I contacted TF many times and they were unable to give me a solution. I tried everything to get more capacity and concluded it was the large surface area combined with the sloshing that was causing the problem. The tank simply had to have 10gal minimum in it to keep from sucking air.


I do not want to spend a $1000 on another tank just to find out I cannot use all the capacity of the tank. I understand some fuel must remain due to the design but I would like to know what I am really going to get as far as capacity before I buy. I can tell you if I knew my last TF tank was only going to get me an additonal 9 gal over factory I would have passed.


If you look at Supertank's web page they are implying with thier mileage calculations that 100% of the 62 gals are useable. I have sent them and email to get their response and will let you know what they have to say. I would like to hear from some acutal users to see what kind of results they are seeing.


Thanks in advance!!


Chris

I have the 75 gal. on e and love it. The red low fuel light comes on with 10 gallons left in the tank. i am sure you could use a few more, but i would rather not take the chance.

Thanks for the comment flduramax.


On my transferflow if the low fuel light came on it meant you had about 5 miles to find something!!! And you had better not hit the brakes too hard or accelerate to fast or it was over.....................

Chris, I just got done doing a 3600 mile run with mine. When the low fuel light came on, I'd hit the next station, usually with in 20-25 miles, and after letting the foam settle and a good top off, 50-52 gallons was the norm.





Never had a problem sucking air, but never let it get much past the low fuel light before refueling.





Hope this helps.





later, Al

Thanks for the comment flduramax.
On my transferflow if the low fuel light came on it meant you had about 5 miles to find something!!! And you had better not hit the brakes too hard or accelerate to fast or it was over.....................

Interesting. Wonder why they don't build them
with a sump that is lower than the rest of the
tank and have the fuel pickup in the sump?
The rest of the tank should have a gentle
slope down into the sump, then almost all of the
fuel capacity would be "useable".

thanks for any insight,

T.

Thanks for all the replys. I am going to order my Supertank next week. The new LLY tank is 57 gallons for the crew cab short bed. The factory cooler stays in place and according to Supertanks should have a usable capacity of aprox 50 gallons. This is fairly consistent with what others have said in this post. I will post pics and a review once I get it installed.

Forget a sump, what they need is a larger version of the Holley off-road no suck pick-ups. Here is an example found on Google


http://bigredheep.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=16

ordered mine yesterdayhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif


can't wait for our trip to colorado...

Just finished a 2,000 mile trip, and that big tank makes things a lot easier. Just set cruise control and go. Fueled up and drove around for a couple days, then left Salt Lake City and fueled in Reno but could probably have gone to Sacramento. Diesel is .35/gal cheaper in Western Nevada. Fueled again in Reno and got back to Salt Lake with the gauge showing 1/2 tank.

FWIW: I am considering same (53 gallon). Trying to find someone to install this if you don't want to do it yourself proving less than easy. Chevy dealer claiming it will kill the warranty. How much of the warranty he wouldn't say but implied fuel pump, lines, etc. Supertank people very much want to find someone in each area who will install them because the product is as good as it is. May have found a GM place that will consider putting it in but I will have to fax over the instructions, etc.

Well, I installed mine on Sunday. I gotta say, it was tougher than I expected, primarily due to not having a lift. I had to wing it on part of the "fit into place" instructions due to the instructions being predicated on having the truck in the air. However, other than having to make do on that step, and one screw up on my part, all went well and I'm very satisfied. I've got some pics and I'll be posting an article with pics and commentary in the next few days...

Maybe for future install projects; try making a pair of ramps out of 2X10's. My dad has made a set. Cut the wood in about 3' lengths, then cut one end on an angle. Leave a flat spot for the tire to sit on. Nail or bolt 4 or 5 of these together. Same idea as the bought ones. Or build a set of four.
I hope to get a tank, but will have it installed.

Yeah, that would be a good idea. But by the time I realized it was a problem, the truck was immobile and I didn't have anything to make ramps out of. When I write the article, I'll be including stuff like that to help others, thanks.

WARNING!

Update, if you have not installed your tank yet, WAIT! There is an update coming from your vendor to improve the venting in one of the tank pods. And the first line if the directions reads, "Remove the tank from the box or truck". I just got my package and ARGH I'm ticked off!

I haven't gotten under there yet to look at it, but I'm hoping I can get to the necessary parts to add this revision without dropping the tank. If I have to drop it again (this time with fuel), I'm going to be one angry fellow…

I guess it's better than many vendors who expect you to pay for "upgrades" that should have been part of the original product, or wait for a complaint before even telling you about the "optional upgrade". I didn't even have to ask, it just came in the mail.

[Edited]
Yes, turns out you can do it in the truck. After looking at the instructions last night, and the tank in the truck, it seemed totally doable in the truck. My vendor called first thing this morning to confirm that it was, in fact, specifically designed to do in the truck, and the instructions are in error when they say to remove it... So, I'm yet again a happy camper.Edited by: BadDog

just got my tank yesterday,thanks to UPS parts are missing,hopeing to have them by sat,since i have the use of a lift then??


Baddog,what update?did you get the new tank(57 gallon) or the old style...man i hate to have to wait.i have a trip planned sunday and would love to see how it goes...

Yep, it's the new tank. 57 gallon and keeps the stock fuel cooler. The update involves mounting an extra vent tube that connects one of the pods directly to the filler neck to speed venting and aid in quick fuel-ups. I'm not sure what the deal is, but I wish they had called to let me know it was on the way. At this point I don't know if I'll even go to the trouble to pull the thing out again. And I'll bet those who paid a shop to put it in would be really upset at the prospect of something like this. Unfortunately, I didn't get the vent package till about 5 minutes after my vendor closed today. I'll be calling tomorrow to find out just how important this vent is, and why nobody called me to let me know it was on the way...

[Edit] Turns out the instuctions were wrong. See post above...Edited by: BadDog

I have not had a problem with filling altho 300 litres takes a while. My concerns at this point are:


1). Needing to keep 50 litres in the tank so that I do not run dry on a slope.


2). Risk of accidental damage due to high-centering.


Otherwise -- fantastic !

Diesel Dad; what do you mean by "High Centering"?

High centering is when you bottom out the center of the truck such that the tires are not able to push the truck forward due to lack of weight on the contact patch. It's typically an off-road term that becomes important when you cross a ridge, waterfall, berm, sand-dune, etc... The longer the wheel base and the lower the ride height, the less angle required to hit the frame/body between the axles.


Quantifying it for a given truck is referred to as "break over angle". Larger numbers generally mean more capable, at least with respect to high center problems. One way to get better break over is to go taller, but often hurts you more than helps, and it goes on and on...


In this case, a very low "break over" for these long low trucks means that we would crush the fancy tank before coming to rest on the frame rails on anything with a significant ridge. So I'll be staying off anything worse than a rutted dirt road, which is pretty much what I do anyway...

Thanx Bad Dog. I'm not an offroader type, so not applicable. Running low fuel on a grade might be an issue once and a long while.

Is this the hitch your talking about?
http://www.ultrahitch.com/products.html


I have one and it is nice!


Anderson Mfg also makes Suoer tanks?


I can't seem to find a web site for the tanks?





They make two versions. For use with the factory cooler, the cutaway between front and back is larger and the tank holds 5 gal. less. For the extended cab shortbed they're 58 and 53 gallons. I just put the 53 gallon on mine. These tanks are really beautifully made. They also make the Rapid Hitch for towing. A billet aluminum towing hitch with reversible ball, and it's a polished work of art......almost too pretty to use.

just installed my tank today..whew,glad i didn't try it at home in the driveway,actually used 1 of my customers shops with a lift..took about 2.5 hrs for 2 of us to do..


what a difference,definately fills up the bottom..


no big surprises,good instructions all went well.





on a side note,ups totally messed up the package on my tank,so all the little nuts bolts etc fell out,supertanks handled this very well and overnited everything i needed to be able to do the installation today.


i am so glad i decided to go with you guys and THANK you for the great customer servicehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gif

I've got my truck up on a four foot high ramp-up. I'm taking out the factory tank tonight, hoping to put in the supertank 57 gal LLY Monday. I just read about update concerning newer vent tube. My supertank has the plumbed hose joining two larger sections of the tank, so what exactly is the new venting update? what models of truck or tanks apply? can this be done on truck after supertank installed? I don't want to leave truck up for several day's waiting for super tank to send me updated venting hose. What is the update, ie: can I just go out and get the parts locally and update the venting myself, or is there a specific part needed for the tank that only supertanks will be able to supply?





Thanks for quick reply


Mark in Vegas

There is a hose from the front pod to the rear pod. This vents the front pod, otherwise it would not fill with fuel due to trapped air. The new kit adds a barb at the very back where there is currently a brass 5/16 alan head plug. The new barb screws in, and the hose runs up to the filler neck where you have to make a small mod to give you a place to attach the vent line. Basically, drill a 3/8" hole and clamp on a nipple adapter with gasket to the OD of the filler neck. The only piece that is not "off the shelf" is the "nipple adapter" on the filler neck. That will probably need to come from SuperTanks.


Yes, you can do it in the truck. The instructions say to remove the tank to do it, but that is simply wrong and I've spoken to them about the need to correct their instructions. I just did mine today, took less than an hour with the tank in the truck...

thanks for quick reply...I've got tank out and have examined my sending unit..doesn't look anything like the one on the instructions...I've got four pipes out of sending unit, feed, return, vent, and the fourth one looks like its just capped, maybe for future use...my two piece gasket set, metal and rubber/neoprene foam fit nicely into bolt pattern of super tank, but the new sending unit doesn't have any of the Plastic flanges to be trimmed off...also the unit crowds the bolt pattern, and is forcing three of my hex head bolts to cross thread...anyone else run into this type of install...I'm going to try and elevate the sending unit and see if I can thread bolts when Heads are flush with the metal gasket top...maybe I'll have to mark and file the areas where the metal flange crowds the hex head bolts..


Thanks for reply's


Mark

How strong is the skid plate that comes with the LWD 70 gal tanks (keeping factory cooler). I have a Transferflow in my 02 CC 4X4 LWB with a 4" Rancho lift with keys turned up another 2", AND I STILL DRAG my tank in mud, high center over berms and banks, etc. Tank has bottomed many times, but it is heavy guage steel and has been no problem. I understand the supertanks are poly, but come with a skid plate. How tough is it? Anybody bottomed yet? I planned to order a new supertank for my 05 which is being built the first week in August and here Sept 1.

Like another poster, I can't find the Supertank on the web. I'm considering the Transferflow but would also like to look at the Supertank. Can someone send me a link?

Thanks

www.supertanks.com

Well I think I want Supertank but unfortunately getting someone to install this thing where I live is another thing altogether. I have one place that is pushing Transferflow but from everything I see here the Supertank seems to make a better product; particularly for LLY (since Transferflow won't even ship theirs until Aug sometime). Anyone had experience with both of these manufacturers?


Thx


DAS

After working with Titan and a local tank company I order a 53 gal tank for my 2500 HD. It will go in Aug 26th. Until I intervened this tank company only sold/installed Transflow. Mine will be their first titan install. Anyone have any tips on what to tell these guys to watch out for before the install?

Tank should come with the fuel filler pipe pre-installed at factory..directions make a step for you to do this, should be already done though. Siphon fuel out or run out your stock tank...remove two fuel line coupleings with GM fuel line tool (or lisle et al...) fuel lines do not nesesarily need to be disconected at the same places..electrical conection can be tricky, but if your crew has seen it before then they will be prepared, sometimes its easier to let tank down alittle to create room for access...vent line is easy...main filler clamp get to from rear wheel well...drop spare tire for extra room...need torx head drivers for big mouth filler plate...straps are all that support stock tank, recomend you do not cut open to drain stock tank...just in case you want it later....trick to keeping rock shield in place is putting the keeper nut and z bracket on...watch how your nut heads are oriented...nuts go on outside of frame..rock guard will really bend that far....rear part of guard is un supported during initial phase of install..I used a ladder to keep it up until I used straps..rear strap frame bolt is hidden by rock guard during fastening...use vise grips to back it up at rear wheel well....emergency brake cable gets close to the front strap bracket...play with orientation to get best spacing...fuel sender gasket plates might not appear to align, but if you move flange around, then elevate it while starting bolts it should lock up the threads so they don't cross thread upon tightening...easy on the torque...hand tight is good...fuel sender pipe 's may crowd a couple of bolt heads..I used vise grips to turn these....directions have a section for removing the metal bracket above drive shaft...I DID NOT REMOVE MINE..I worked tank into rock guard then elevated take within rock guard while rotating it upwards into place...then swing rock guard into tank...straps are obvious....front support looks funny, but it works as engineered..nut plate goes inside of cross member, or if earlier model truck they have different mounting with 90' bracket and bolts...probably the best place to do all this is have truck on car hoist, supported from passenger side of vehicle..standing is better than stooping..Landry at supertanks is top notch customer rep..do not hesitate to phone him with serious inquiries, I did and the man gave me his cell phone number to call back if I had any more questions. My experience with supertanks has been fantastic!...I am happy with product and look forward to years of service from it





Mark in Vegas

Thanks a whole bunch Mark. I think those guys will appreciate the tips here (since they will want to come under on the labor hrs vs the quote no doubt).