My good buddy and fellow gear head told me a few weeks ago that he thought that the old DMAX was sounding a little louder and more like a cummins when driving out of the parking lot. From inside the truck I couldn't tell much, if any difference. Niether he nor I could not determine any noise difference at idle. Also after the last few tanks of fuel, my mileage dropped from the high 15 mpg to the high 13 mpg.


Last Night I decided to swap out the fuel filters. Installed the OEM and the post OEM CAT filter, then cut them up for inspection. Holy Crap! Check this out. Obviously having a secondary fuel should be a requirement. Can you imagine the mess I would have had if the CAT was not installed?


BTW, the OEM has 11,240 miles and the CAT has 13,222 miles. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/4C4_Pre-CAT_OEM_Filter_1.jpg





http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/CAT_Filter_Post_OEM_1.jpg

Gee Mitch! Where you getting your fuel? That looks like the stuff on the floor of your horse trailer. Later! Frank

Yep, looks like yoiu are not buying fuel at the right places!!!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif

Truth is Frank, there are no truck stops within 30 miles of the house. I get fuel at a Texaco, Shell, Mobil, Circle K, and ARCO, all are the mini-mart type. When I am on the road I usually try to hit the Flying J stops. Up where you are, you have high use stations, down here in the flippin city its tough to find something that can be called high useage stations. Its a good thing that the CAT is downstream of the OEM. BTW, this morning my gearhead buddy came outside with me and we started it up, put it in gear, and he said "Yep, sounds much better!" Makes me wish I had used ear protection 40 odd years ago when we went shooting! I couldn't tell the difference but he could. Topped of the tank last night so at the next fill up I should notice the difference, if the past is any indicator.

Chipper,


I know what you and Frank are saying, but its difficult to justify driving 30 miles one way to the closest Flying J truck stop! I just feel damn good about the added protection that the CAT gives me!

I may be missing something here, but it looks to me that either pre or post additional filtering is good in this situation. Are we saying that in Mitchagain's case, there is a benefit to post filtering?

The basic answer is "either, or" just don't rely on the OEM to take care of everything that comes out of the fuel pump!

Both pre and post OEM have turned in some good numbers. Later! Frank

Looks like they redesigned that OEM end cap that might fall off. Looks thicker to allow more glue. Looks like the Cat caught more trash even as a secondary so I guess the media still ain't up to snuff.

has anyone bought one of the slightly longer filters and cut one open? i'd like to see some pictures.. if it hasn't been done i'll pick one up and do the dissection..

Thought Mitch's was the longer one. On second look it does look stretched. Has anyone used the long one on the earlier model trucks?

... Looks like the Cat caught more trash even as a secondary so I guess the media still ain't up to snuff.

I wonder if the sludge that's rumored to cause injectors to stick open are asphaltines that get by the filter???

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif

I looked closer at the CAT last night. The black crap is not sticky like an asphaltine, and it did not rub off the filter media. Like I stated earlier, Pre or Post secondary really isn't much of a discussion, though I feel much better about the post OEM position. I have to say that one of the biggest points of interest to me was that the CAT had stopped contaminates the full length of the filter media whereas the Racor seems to do its filtering just below the input ports of the filter (hence the wide "stripe" of darkness on the Racor) and then from the bottom up. The CAT has entry holes the full circumference and that may be why all the media is filtering the crap.


I am amazed at how much crapola got thru the Racor. BTW it is the original "short" Racor filter. I suspect that there a several hundred thousand of those that have to be purged from the logistics system before the longer Racor units become readily available. But, if the same media is used, there will be damn little benefit if pictures like this are any indication.

Interesting observation--the OEM filter clearly is not doing its job--but it seems that it could really break down as it is loaded up with junk. I saw some brownish areas--not black--on the OEM filter--yet most of the media on the post CAT was used--blackened.


In my setup(pre OEM CAT)-- after 6Kmiles--my OEM filter was not even black--now that could be more because of my fuel source. But the main point here--the recommended change interval is clearly not sufficent---especially when you have to use fuel from non-ideal sources.


I also interpret the photos as saying--if you let the OEM take on the fuel first--it could become less effective quicker--than if you let the CAT take on the fuel first (pre OEM).


Ron

The LLY filter will not fit the LB7 without a little mod. Like I said before: Why would we want to use them? Later! Frank

I'll tell you what, the guy that built the interface flange that mounted on the OEM filter head so that he could install a different type of filter may have the best idea of all. If I had the equipment, I would make an adapter so I could put the CAT in the OEM's place. It would have to have 2 O-rings in place of just the one, but that is not an insurmountable situation. Oh well, shoulda, coulda, woulda!

I agree with all said above. Why pay more money for a longer filter with the same crappy media and a lower plate that may fall off and trash the injectors. I know of 3 for sure between here and the DP that fell apart and we represent only a small fraction of these trucks on the road. Any way you look at it it's like rolling the dice. The only thing I felt positive about was the WIF sensor and even it doesn't work. I figure about 3 more of these and I'll be at 100K then that garbage is out of here. The sad part about it is that I have to pay about $20 a pop for these last ones I need and as I install them I'll know they aint worth a nickle. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif Edited by: a bear

RonJT,


You have a valid point. The up side is also, the CAT filters are a minimum of 1/2 the price of the Racor, regardless whose name is stamped on the side. I got the CAT at $10.51 and the Racors off Ebay for a total of $19 ($59 for 3 including shipping). So a Pre OEM CAT makes good sense. That's the way my dad is installing his. Like Frank says "why use them?" --- gotta fill the void with some thing. Too bad its so damn high priced.

Those stations your using....Are they dumping their drain oil in the tanks? Thats a serious amount of dirt there!

Look at it this way....The OEM just catches the BIG chunks, while the secondary filter will filter out the fines. Thats why post seems like such a good idea rather than pre.

Do you think GM knows about all this filter stuff? And how bad the stock one really is? When will they realize that proper filtration would save them money on all the warranty work they're doing to the injectors and I/P.

I guess I should have just come out and say what the more experienced folks have been saying--the OEM filter is junk. The WIF sensor does not work--I saw some posts that the owner had water in his fuel--damaged the injectors and the sensor never alerted him. Then GM said it was his fault because he had bad fuel.


From my little experiement--I have concluded that Pre-OEM CAT is best because I do not have to waste money on the OEM filter. The CAT will catch it all--big and small. Post-OEM you have to replace the OEM on a more aggressive schedule.


I also purchased--from Greg--the RACOR kit--mainly because it has--I believe-- a better WIF sensor. Now I really do not need the OEM filter. I wish there was an adapter to just bypass it completely.


Ron

Here's some filters I changed a couple weeks ago. (Pre OEM Racor - Post Cat) They had 15K on them. The picture does them no justice. The Racor was black throughout and the Cat looked like new. They were also ran with a lift pump.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/7B7_Pict0156.jpgEdited by: a bear

Here's some filters I changed a couple weeks ago. (Pre OEM Racor - Post Cat) They had 15K on them. The picture does them no justice. The Racor was black throughout and the Cat looked like new. They were also ran with a lift pump.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/7B7_Pict0156.jpg








The Cat looks brand new ....http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif


Those pictures imply the OEM is doing a very adequate job .... Quite interesting really ... Makes you wonder that if under pressure and using "more" of the media makes it more efficient ...





Mac

Sorry for the question--but does abear have the OEM racor first followed by the CAT filter?


If true--then the lift pump seems to makes a huge difference.


Ron

Ron





Yes you are correct as to fuel flow and filter placement .....As far as the lift pump,yes very interesting in deed ... I just pressurized my system last week ...


Mac http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif





Edited by: Mackin

I hate to admit it in public a bear. Yours is definitely bigger than mine. Later! Frank http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

I had installed this Cat filter on my Mega mount to see how the sample results would turn out. I think this is the largest filter Cat has in the high efficiency class. The fuel sample results were excellant and are posted on the spreadsheet that Bill is keeping up. I have since went back to the Baldwin element because I occasionally use the drain to check for water and I don't trust my WIF sensor (Long Story). My filters have always been water free since running additives. I have noticed that the OEM Racor does get more crud since running the lift pump. They all looked the same with even discoloration.


Gee Frank,Thanks http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif Edited by: a bear

Well another benefit of a lift pump--it appears to be filter efficiency. I remember reading from a Kennedy post about this benefit--but abear's pictures drive it home.


Mac


Did you put a filter before the pump--i was reading somewhere--that the pump would wearout prematurely if exposed to unfiltered fuel. This would imply at least three filters for the post OEM folks?


Ron

I have no sticks and stones filter before my pump ....


I'm doing some experimental but yet tried before me ideas .... I'm wanting to see the benefits or not with my own eyes,not that I don't believe the experts here...


If it warrants a more expensive application pre and aft filters as in Propertor or Fass then I'll jump in ...


Problem ,not really, but I have the 2UM setup in place and wasn't looking to ditch it and it made for a sweet mounting area and hook up...


Mac

--i was reading somewhere--that the pump would wearout prematurely if exposed to unfiltered fuel.* This would imply at least three filters for the post OEM folks?


Ron

Ron,

I have three filters - Standayne FM100 30um & lift pump, OEM and MegaFilter. Several folks were collaborating in early 03 to solve the vapor problem we were experiencing with Post OEM fuel filters and Abear (Tommy) was the first to implement a lift pump using the AC Delco EP158 (or EP309) with a bypass regulator. Chuntag95 (Chris) and I followed Tommy's lead with the EP158 but also added the Stanadyne pre-filter. The EP158 & EP309 are used on the GM 6.5 diesels and they are known to fail at around 60kmiles. (I had one fail on my 98 6.5). There were discussions in the TDP 6.5 forums several years ago about adding a pre-filter in front of the lift pump to guard against premature failure. Dr. Lee wrote an article on adding a lift pump to his 84 6.2 that included a Racor pre-filter. So many folks were adding pre filters to their 6.5's. When I built my Dmax lift pump setup (http://community.webshots.com/album/77018086bLHHHC) I liked the idea of adding the pre-filter. The FM100's dual inlets also provided a convenient way to plumb the bypass return. Many folks are successfully running the AC pumps without a pre-filter so it isn't a necessity - just a little extra protection.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif

Mac and Jbplock thanks for the info. Jbplock--I remember reading about your setup--but I had just purchased my truck--first D--and was overwhelmed with all the data being presented.


I have a much better understanding now--and I have a question about the setup: Is a bypass--set by a valve in the return line--really needed? I see the bypass is run through the valve back to the input of the filter--would it not make sense to run it back to the tank?


I guess back to the input with a short line is really the easiest.


Thanks


Ron

I've been running the EP158 but the EP309 would probably be the better choice. (built in regulator) I think the EP309 regulates at about 4-6 psi so you should see a couple pounds less @ the engine after going through the lines and filters. I think the performance guys are running a little more pressure with larger pumps and so far all seems well. I currently have my pressure set at 5# Pump - 3# post filter. I also installed a ElK960 timer per Bill Plock for about $20 that starts the pump before the oil pressure builds then times out and allows the oil press safety switch to take over. There is a very noticable difference in how fast the engine starts by allowing a little pressure during crank up. Much Much faster. I just checked the mileage and my lift pump is now at 37233 miles of service.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/8C8_Pict0154.jpg

The exposed straight nipple is now a 90° long sweep, but here is a picture:





http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Proto_pump_installed.jpg

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gif Those nipples look like the way to go. A lot less hardware to purchase and mess with. Rounding up the fuel lines and fittings is a pain in itself. No one ever seems to have everything you need. Are they stainless ? The fuel lines I purchased to mate to the pump are allready rusty. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif


John, Your fuel pump is mounted backwards! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gifEdited by: a bear

I also installed a ElK960 timer per Bill Plock for about $20 that starts the pump before the oil

EIK960? Is that a gm part # or what? Where did you
get it?

Thanks!

Jim

I also installed a ElK960 timer per Bill Plock for about $20 that starts the pump before the oil




EIK960? Is that a gm part # or what? Where did you
get it?

Thanks!

Jim


http://www.at-fairfax.com/ConstructionElectronics/RelayBoardDelayTimers.htm

abear,


Thanks for the information. I never thought about priming before the oil pressure builds--does this activate the second the key is turned? I am also considering a shutoff if the oil pressure drops.


I need to do some more work.


The EP309 seems like the way to go because it self regulates. For now I am not interested in high hp--maybe just medium hp--so the pressure available from EP309 would be just fine.


Thanks again.


Ron

Couldn't the glow plug timer circuit be used to turn the pump on before start? It would have to go through a diode to keep the pump power from powering the glow plugs.


Gerald

Ron,


Running the bypass line back to the tank would also work. As you said I used the second inlet on the FM100 because it was convenient. The easiest method is to run the EP309 with John's fittings (no bypass loop). I still like the ability to adjust the pressure with the bypass regulator even though it's not really needed (tendencies of the ultra-anal I guess)


Gerald,


You might be able to rig a lift pump timer based on the glow plug circuit timer but I believe the glow plugs & intake heater are activated based on temperature. So it may not work when the engine is warm. May be worth looking into though.


Tommy,


Glad to hear you have your timer working.. Way cool!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif Also, is that a fuel pressure gauge in that picture? Edited by: jbplock

Bill - you have too much spare timehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif. Come work for me in El Segundo and we can fix this.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif


AlanEdited by: OC_DMAX

Bill,


Yes that is my fuel pressure gauge. It's a plain Boost/Vac gauge so I guess it's now a fuel Boost/Vac gauge. This is a mechanical gauge so I used a gauge isolator to keep fuel out of the cab. I also wired the gauge light to the dome circuit for dimming.The gauge works great!


I have since found a electric fuel pressure gauge that has a 0-15 psi scale with a sender that is compatable w/ diesel fuel. It only reads in pressure. (regular or digital)

Alan,


Thanks for the offer but I think I might miss the snow... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clown.gif


Tommy,


Your gauge sounds neat! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif I think I'll have to put one on my todo list ... that is unless I move to El Sugundo... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Here's another way to mount a lift pump, I used a Stanadyne FM 100 and the 6 inch filter, 30 micron, which plumbs to the oem filter, then to a Mega filter. The oem and mega now are completely full all the time. Plus I added a water separator at the end of the filter.





http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/59D_Lift_Pump.jpg Edited by: hasselbach

Tommy,


Are you using the timer to activate the relay? Did you have to isolate that line with a diode? Do you have a schematic I can copy so I don't have to think so hard?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif


Chris

Man, I got to think more before hitting that button. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif What did you do to protect the timer? Did you put it in some sort of box or what?

If you are switching the negitive side of the circuit, can the timer also be used to switch the negitive? No diode would be required since it wouldn't matter whether either circuit was closed at the same time. Where is or where do you install the oil pressure switch?

Tommy,


Are you using the timer to activate the relay?* Did you have to isolate that line with a diode?* Do you have a schematic I can copy so I don't have to think so hard?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif*


Chris
Chris,

I'm not sure how Tommy hooked up his ELk-960 timer but If I put one on mine I would wire the relay that is part of the ELK-960 (page down) (http://www.at-fairfax.com/ConstructionElectronics/RelayBoardDelayTimers.htm) such that it would apply ground to the Lift Pump relay (when the timer is active). Per my LP schematic (http://community.webshots.com/photo/77018086/78006127xwErdP) I have the OPS and manual push button wired in parallel such that either one will activate the lift pump. The timer relay could be wired the same way. When you turn on the ignition the timer starts and closes it's relay, which in turn grounds the lift pump relay and runs the lift pump for the timer period. Once the engine is running the OPS takes over and the timer relay goes off.

hasselbach,

The OPS can be installed in one of the plugs on the oil filter adapter (see pics in abear's and my sig). I installed mine on the sample port of my oilguard bypass filter.
By the way nice job on your pre-filter lift pump!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif Also curious ... what fuel pressure are you seeing with the FM100 lift pump?

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif Edited by: jbplock

Chris,


My install is like Bill's but without the relay. If you are setup the same, his explanation would be the way to go. You can use the timer to activate the Pos or Neg side. I tapped into the Ignition E circuit at the underside of the underhood fuse box with a connector purchased at my local GM dealer. I then mounted the timer under the second fuse box cover where it's opens up to the right side of the fuse box.


Tommy http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gifEdited by: a bear

... I tapped into the Ignition E circuit at the underside of the underhood fuse box with a connector purchased at my local GM dealer. I then mounted the timer under the second fuse box cover where it's opens up*to the right side of the fuse box.


Tommy, Great idea! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif

OK That did it ... couldn't resist ... just ordered one of those ELK-960 timers... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif

<DIV>Hi Guys</DIV>
<DIV>I am really wondering if the timer is necessary for this system. I have the lift pump wired as per Bill's wiring diagram and If I press the prime switch the system is pressured up in less than a second. However I do not have a bypass built into my system so that may allow the fuel to lose some pressure that was there at the shutdown. I have had the truck sit for a week and did not have a need to run the lift pump before starting. </DIV>
<DIV>Hope this add's some help for making a decision. Will be watching the results here to see if I need to have another TOY!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif</DIV>

<DIV>Hi Guys</DIV>
<DIV>I am really wondering if the timer is necessary for this system. I have the lift pump wired as per Bill's wiring diagram and If I press the prime switch the system is pressured up in less than a second. However I do not have a bypass built into my system so that may allow the fuel to lose some pressure that was there at the shutdown. I have had the truck sit for a week and did not have a need to run the lift pump before starting. </DIV>
<DIV>Hope this add's some help for making a decision. Will be watching the results here to see if I need to have another TOY!!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif</DIV>





I suppose the same can be accomplished with a manual switch but I kinda decided on the lazy man's route. I guess the main benefit of this thing is much quicker starting which should save on the starter and batteries.


I never had the no start syndrone since installing the Juice/Attitude but I did notice that it took longer to crank. With the precharging of the fuel system the harder starts are now history. It now starts immediately. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif


Bill; Chris, I'm sure you will see the difference. Let me know so we can see if history will repeat itself. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif





Edited by: a bear

OK That did it ... couldn't resist ... just ordered one of those ELK-960 timers... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif Me too. Just have to keep up the with abears and the jbplocks. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gifEdited by: chuntag95

…I am really wondering if the timer is necessary for this system. I have the lift pump wired as per Bill's wiring diagram and If I press the prime switch the system is pressured up in less than a second.]

Jerry,

It's not totally necessary … just cool. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif
If you have your manual switch accessible from the cab you can just prime with the switch instead of using the timer. (My manual switch is located under the hood for easy filter bleeding) The GM 6.5's have the timer feature built in to the ECM. On my 98 6.5 I could hear the lift pump running as soon as I turned on the key - it would run while I was waiting for the glow plug light to go out. When we were first working on these lift pumps I initially wanted some type of one-shot timer to prime the system before the OPS kicked in (like the 6.5). At the time it looked like the ELK-960 timer would work but I opted not to add it ... that is until Tommy put one on his truck… http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gifhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif As Tommy pointed out the LP pre-run timer will help the engine start quicker. I've noticed this when I run my LP with the manual switch just before starting the truck.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif

You could put in a manual switch in the cab and label it Warp Drive or something. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Evil Smile.gif


I had to go to UPS and pick up my timer today. They had every single box checked for every type of signature. I had a $150 item sitting on the poarch with a slip for a $20 part.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gifEdited by: chuntag95

I had to go to UPS and pick up my timer today. They had every single box checked for every type of signature. I had a $150 item sitting on the poarch with a slip for a $20 part.http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif


I hear that, I have to lose half a day's work tomorrow (last chance) to come home and wait for the Brown Truck for a $20 part! What's up with that?http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif

I looked up the tracking on the web site and had them hold it for same day pickup. I couldn't get it until 8 pm, but at least I got it without missing work.

chuntag95 and idle_chatter, sorry for your inconvenience, but rules are rules. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Unhappy.gif If your shipper mistakenly checks off "adult sig required -- min 21" (used for alcohol shipments and the like) instead of "sig required" (the regular type), your driver HAS to get YOUR signature (or your spouse's) at YOUR house...no leaving w/neighbor. We can get in serious trouble if we don't follow those rules. (Your gov't at work) http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Angry.gif Your driver is just doing what he's supposed to do. Somebody should tell that shipper to change what they're doing.


Sorry, but I hate it when we get blamed for shipper's mistakes.


-your friendly neighborhood UPS guy...


Tom http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Pig.gif

I wasn't blaming the driver, Bac. I know that he's just doing what he has to. I was mostly griping about the vendor shipping that timing circuit like it was a nuclear bomb trigger or something! Actually worked out okay, went home at noon, had an extended lunch (spent it on the 'web in The Diesel Place), got my package and made it back in time to complete 8 hours of my normal 10 hour day. No harm, no foul, just a bit of an inconvenience!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif

Tom,


I was not blaming my brown truck bud either. As a matter of fact, he is one of my favorite people http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif. I was complaining about the vendor (apears to be the exact same vendor) as well. I know the timer was nice, but I spent an extra $5 in fuel driving to go get it because the knuckle-head vendor didn't fill out the paperwork as he should (ie leave it on my poarch or in the bushes like everyone else).

I know this is kinda dumb but...


I've got about 17,500 on my '03 and just started reading this forum a few weeks ago. And nowI can't stop reading!


It was this topic in particular that caused me to rethink where I WAS buying fuel--cheapest mini mart crap I could find 'cause i didn't think it mattered http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Ermm.gif. After learnin' up about fuel, filters, etc. I went to Flying J tonight to fill up the tank. The FJ is on the way home so it's super convenient.


The one I went to has 2 areas: one for autos and one for the big boys &amp; girls. I pulled up into the latter (of coursehttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif) and saw that each pump had HUGE canister filters mounted outside between the pump and the fuel nozzle (also figured out why the spout on my tank was so large). These pumps run so fast that I had to hold the handle just slightly to get a steady flow that wouldn't auto-shutoff immediately. Anyway, I checked out the auto area tanks and guess what: no canister filters for them!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif


So I'm figuring that from now on, I'm stopping at the FJ whenever possible. I'm thinkin' that at least I'll get cleaner fuel to start out with.


Thanks to everyone!





QUESTION:


What is a lift pump and why do I want one?Edited by: donmiller714

QUESTION:


What is a lift pump and why do I want one?





Most of us will never need a lift pump. Basically they push the fuel through the filter rather than sucking it through. pushing the fuel seems to uses the whole filter rather than just the part closest to the intake line. Some people, with extra filtration, have had problems with air getting sucked into the system. I chose the Cat pre filter as it seems, IMO, to offer the least resistance to fuel flow. Others with mods want more fuel available and feel the stock setup is inadequate.

If you add any additional filters, the lift pump is well worth it to prevent air forming in your filters (similar to sucking on a straw when drinking say a coke). gases that are in liquid form will form bubbles due to the induction of a vacuum. (vapor point) My lift filters (stanadyne units) have filters and pumps together (sort of killing two birds with one stone.)