Hey guys,

I went through the FAQs and diagnostics- very informative.
Regarding the lift pump, I did as instructed and opened the little valve and the engine up and quit. In fact, I had a devil of a time getting it started and running again.
First strike against the pump.
I got underneath and I could not feel it running.
Strike Two.
I unplugged the pump with the truck running and checked voltage at the pump. I am getting a full 12 and change volts there, so I am assuming the OPS is still good.
Is it fair to say the pump is gone, then? I can go downtown and pick one up for the same that price and shipping would get me from an online source, if that is the case. I would prefer to hold off on frying the pmd and injection pump, if I can.
Thanks,

Ian

Howdy Ian welcome to the site, and congrats on being a new guy that actually read FAQ before first post.

Lift pump is is OOC, but OPS could be part of the reason, replace pump 1st, I also suggest while at it look at putting a fram mount pre filter, you can go expensive and install a Racor, or go low end with a golden rod like in Northern hydraulics catalog, I have pics of my racor install in the FAQ.
20-30 micron is a good pre filter, or even a 10, but 20-30 is better IMO what you are after is to block gross debris/rust that kills the pump or early clogs the on engine 5 micron, also get a prefilter with water blocking treatment, the one on the engine isn't as effective as it could be plus by time it alarms for water it's late in the game.

Also list your vehicle specs in your signature per welcome notes in mine or in locked sticky at top of the forum. When was last fuel filter change, anytime fuel delivery is an issue change fuel filter 1st. Also make sure to mop out the bottom of the bowl and don't toss the plastic screen out with the old filter that gets stuck in the middle IIRC there is a pic of that in the FAQ pictures or in feeding the beast post 1 or 2

Thanks for the welcome, Tim. I appreciate your counsel. I'll give that pre-filter some thought. Its my goal to keep this thing running for as long as possible and that would be useful. No, I haven't replaced the fuel filter yet. That was next on my list.
However, a new frustration: I went out to start my truck this afternoon and there wass no "wait to start light" on the dash and, consequently, no starting. I checked the fuse for the glow plugs and it's good. Is there a relay or something that I am missing that would cause this to happen all of a sudden?

Ian

check for power to pcm and check ALL ground connections....start with the batteries. then check ALL grounding straps.

The pcm controls glow plugs and lift pump. If it doesn't have ground or power, you'll get no lift pump operation and no glow plugs. I had a bad pcm give me the same symptoms, but I wouldn't assume your pcm is bad until you know it's getting power and ground.

Did I mention that you've got to clean all grounds? Apply dielectric grease to all connections after cleaning.

I also suggest while at it look at putting a fram mount pre filter, you can go expensive and install a Racor, or go low end with a golden rod like in Northern hydraulics catalog, I have pics of my racor install in the FAQ.
20-30 micron is a good pre filter, or even a 10, but 20-30 is better IMO what you are after is to block gross debris/rust that kills the pump or early clogs the on engine 5 micron, also get a prefilter with water blocking treatment, the one on the engine isn't as effective as it could be plus by time it alarms for water it's late in the game.
??????
Kind Regards
Rick

6.5 sticky FAQ has full pics look under modifcations & improvements

or here http://dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15002 which is where FAQ takes you, actually 2 links under same header in FAQ about remote filters

What are the two coolers pancaked together in the prefilter pic? The extra tee after the vac switch - is that a drain????
Kind Regards, Rick
Hope I am not bugging you yet!:eek: