****WARNING****


For one solid week after an oil change (6000miles accumulated towing all week long) i had a very hard starting DMX. So i pop the hood, and decide to check out the filter, which is dry on the outside and in perfect looking condition. I went back to the dealer and told them it had to be primed before it would start each and every time . Well lo and behold the serv manager thought it was the tech, that there was NO WAY a filter could be the problem, but upon removal and vis inspection METAL WAS FOUND FROM THE SIDE OF THE FILTER CASING????


Whatever it was, it was not rust (appeared to be galv metal).


I know mods i posted it here because this area gets a lot of exposure so anyone else with these symptoms can quickly diagnose.


BTW, no codes set, ran fine when running although tech2 did show a Fpressure increase over normal when running (possibly to overcome the restriction?)


Filter changed under parts warranty.


And the dealer was great about everything. Got me a washed truck back and a free oil change!





on edit ..this was the fuel filter if i wasn't clear on that!Edited by: Got Juice?

<DIV>WOW, this is something I hope is an isolated incident.</DIV>
<DIV>First the rust, and now the can is coming apart.</DIV>
<DIV>I don't think this was galvanized metal from inside the filter, if the filters were galvanized they wouldn't rust.</DIV>

all i know is what i saw, and it scared the ship out of me.... all documented for any future concerns of course.


But if you ever have a DMX that needs priming before starting, here is a good place to look.


The metal in question (i know where is my camera when i need it) was about 4" long, cylindrically shaped and about 5 inches wide. As well there were other chunks floating around in there. But the pieces were not from the fuel tank/lines at all....they could not fit thru the fuel line!!!!!

Sounds similar to the problem Mdrag had with his filter... ?? The internal end cap came loose. Good reason for having a post oem filter...


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif Edited by: jbplock

I also had a element end cap come loose. Fortunately it came loose while changing the filter. The adhesive is poor. Had it been in service it would have washed 12K miles of gunk to the injectors possibly taking them out. If anyone wants to see the failed filter pictures they can find them posted at the webshots link in my sig below.

Post OEM is what I had. Can't see it any other way.

Cheap junk lousy filter about to explode, rust or dump a surprise into your injectors.

Yhe sky is falling !!!!!!!!!!!!!


Mac http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

Yhe sky is falling !!!!!!!!!!!!!


Mac http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif





depends on who foots that bill

GM's gonna till 100K ....


I'm just busting nuts ....


No matter what you do there will be defective parts ... A secondary filter could fail just as well ... Nothings is 100% goof proof





Mac

And I got 32K trouble free miles on my original Fuel filterhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif. The filter was dark top to bottom and no junk in it when I disected it. I bow to the Diesel gods http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif for my good fortune. Billy

Don't think that secondary filter will fail as easy. The OEM element just hangs from the top of the can. Nothing to hold up the bottom plate and element. Couple that with mounting it on the engine where it can heat up and vibrate. All that holds the bottom plate on is the glue. Never seen one constructed quite this poorly. Most have a spring which keeps the parts compressed together.

I don't see the filter cap falling off on in this Racor..

http://www.uscom.com/~hoot/cars/duramax/gmc/fuel_filter_comparo/DSCN3763.JPG

More Filter pics (http://www.uscom.com/~hoot/cars/duramax/gmc/fuel_filter_comparo/FILTER_COMPARO.html)





Edited by: hoot

Yhe sky is falling !!!!!!!!!!!!!


Mac http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif





The last words of the water in fuel sensor. Then it also died.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/HiHi.gif

For a week straight the drill was to open the door.... try to start truck 3 times.... drop an FBOMB, open the hood, crack the bleeder screw, prime the system and restart the truck. That worked every time. BUT it had to be done every time you started the truck unless it was only shut off for 2 minutes or less. Embarrassing when a F owner asks if you need assistance (he was driving a 6.0) i said no, just checking for block porosityhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif