Tmoore
05-07-2006, 12:38 AM
My dad has a 98 6.5 that blew up last summer been sitting in pieces since november last year. I put a new pump and turbo on it. A long block is nearly $5000, way to much in my opinion for a 6.5. Any one have any ideas on finding a good long block, or know where one is for a reasonable price?
Thanks
4doorTAHOE6.5TD
05-07-2006, 02:34 AM
"Used complete 6.5TD assemblys" are $3500 to $5000 on AUTO-PART.COM. .Try GM or Jasper engines for an exchange rebuilt.Engines don't blow up, Failures are induced,some how. I see you have a DuraMax,that has a $21.000 list price for a complete assembly line equipped new engine & $8000.00 for an Allison rebuilt trans. Whats your opinion of those prices ? Thats the "advantage" of having a Japanese design engine in an American truck ' Eh !!!
Tmoore
05-07-2006, 03:08 AM
The price for a jasper rebuilt is abour $5500. Well there wasn't any thing really left of the 6.5 when I tore it apart. All the main bearings were spun, front one had next to nothing left of it. About 2 pounds of metal shavings the oil pump had picked up. So its $29000 for a new duramax and allison? Well the truck wouldn't be worth no where near that. This is my first venture with any thing from Japan other then motor cycles and electronics. Its my third venture with a V8 diesel, so I'm still getting used to that. $3500-5000 just seems way like way to much to me to spend on a 6.5 I've tried to talk him into just selling the truck to me, but he thinks he need to get another 6.5 for it. If it were mine I have some interesting plans for it. well if anyone knows of any other there let me know.
signgrafix
05-07-2006, 06:05 AM
Man if I was going to buy another engine, if at all possible, I would have to take a look at these guys
http://www.peninsularengine.com/
nickg
05-07-2006, 02:57 PM
This cant be right.....(from the above listed link)
REPLACEMENT TRUCK ENGINE AND PARTS
NEW 6.5 LITER V-8 TRUCK and SUBURBAN 300 HP TURBO ENGINES WITH MECHANICAL INJECTION PUMP AND 18:1 PISTONS.
INCLUDES:
Hi-flow water pump, Throttle bracket, Dual thermostats, Bypass hose, Upper radiator hose, Thermostat crossover and outlet.
Pre-1993 $8400.00
1994 and After $7800.00
Optional Dual thermostat w/ Throttle bracket Kit: $348.00
CR are you out there??
quantum mechanic
05-07-2006, 11:46 PM
Spun bearings arn't the end of that block. The crank may have to be cut for an oversized bearing and the block align honed but I would think you could build it for $1000-$1500 for the machine work and parts and you do the rest yourself.
Tmoore
05-08-2006, 12:09 AM
Well its got cracks too, can't see them but its my magnafluxed. Same as the heads. But its got a brand new pump and turbo :ro)
4doorTAHOE6.5TD
05-08-2006, 12:51 AM
What ever caused the block overheating is the most likely culprit. I could believe it is just a stock system that is malfunctioning ,from some of the discussions Iv'e heard about failures. To much fuel or to hot of water in the cooling system could cause block cracking. Over loading, inoperative fan clutch, trash clogged comdenser & radiators are frequently mentioned as cause of overheating. My self I would go with used engine,checking cylnder leakage,compression & inspecting the areas serviced by the oiling system,before paying. Also just doing rings, bearings,timing componets Seals & gaskets on a good used engine if a long use of the truck is needed should be cost effective. You can run a want ad on this Forum. after 25 posts. You should be also checking the For Sale location here on the forum. One more idea,you might buy a Non turbo 6.5 & install all the TD equipment on it.BTW,Iwasn't suggesting you install a Dmax & Allison on the 98 truck. Just making a price comparison FYI & for a reality check .
quantum mechanic
05-08-2006, 08:04 AM
If the cracks were only detected through magnafluxing, it is possible to install a main stud/girdle and run with it, or you could start calling salvage yards for 6.2 or 6.5 blocks. Late 6.2 blocks (599 cast) and early 6.5 are still poping up in my area ~$200-500 USd, but you have to run the OPS in the rear of the engine instead of under the #7 intake runner.