There is a picture of the adapter in this post (http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1027754#post1027754)

One line out, one line in. As to interfacing it with an accumulator, some plumbing ingenuity should suffice. Let me or Geabis know if we can help with that. I just don't have any familiarity with the accumulator.KB - I just looked at your "sandwich" adapter and I am impressed by it.

I have a 2006 LBZ and so far have not had any overheating problems. (The jury is still out 'cause we haven't had any real hot days here in Michigan yet.)

I do have a very strong interest in installing a bypass oil filter as added insurance.

Looking at your "sandwich" adapter, I have a few questions for you.

Can I purchase this adapter separate from your EOC? If so, how much does it cost?
Will I be able to use it with a bypass oil filter instead of the EOC?
Does this adapter return the oil back to the main oil gallery? IOW - is it a true parallel system to the EOM filter or is it a parasitic system? - I realize that as a parallel system some of the oil would bypass the OEM filter, I just want to make sure that my engine will get the benefit of ALL the oil. I don't like the idea of robbing oil from the oil pressure sending unit or a pressure tap and then returning to the pan. If I were going to do this, I would use a separate electric pump as suggested in one of the posts above.
What size are the oil passages in the "sandwich" adapter and what size and type of hose would you recommend for my intended application?
If this is a true parallel system, do I need any kind of restriction on the bypass filter, or is the pressure difference between the OEM and the bypass adequate to insure proper filtration through both?
Finally - If some time in the future it turns out that, the LBZ is also an "overheater"; can I then purchase your EOC without the already purchased "sandwich" adapter? Thanks for all your work on oil filtration and cooling.

KB - I just looked at your "sandwich" adapter and I am impressed by it.



I have a 2006 LBZ and so far have not had any overheating problems. (The jury is still out 'cause we haven't had any real hot days here in Michigan yet.)



I do have a very strong interest in installing a bypass oil filter as added insurance.



Looking at your "sandwich" adapter, I have a few questions for you.

Can I purchase this adapter separate from your EOC? If so, how much does it cost?

$45 pls shipping, includes removeable T-stat

Will I be able to use it with a bypass oil filter instead of the EOC?

Yes, if a full flow (not parasitic) type

Does this adapter return the oil back to the main oil gallery? IOW - is it a true parallel system to the EOM filter or is it a parasitic system? - I realize that as a parallel system some of the oil would bypass the OEM filter, I just want to make sure that my engine will get the benefit of ALL the oil. I don't like the idea of robbing oil from the oil pressure sending unit or a pressure tap and then returning to the pan. If I were going to do this, I would use a separate electric pump as suggested in one of the posts above.

Oil will go from adapter to remote filtration to adapter to element (subject to bypass). No oil is robbed from the lub stream

What size are the oil passages in the "sandwich" adapter and what size and type of hose would you recommend for my intended application?

1/2" npt female, with my special -12 JIC fittings (extra), the id is .62 to .64

If this is a true parallel system, do I need any kind of restriction on the bypass filter, or is the pressure difference between the OEM and the bypass adequate to insure proper filtration through both?

Not really applicable

Finally - If some time in the future it turns out that, the LBZ is also an "overheater"; can I then purchase your EOC without the already purchased "sandwich" adapter?

Yes I will credit the payment toward the eoc.


Thanks for all your work on oil filtration and cooling.
Ray

Another thing to note, when adding any remote filtration with plumbing, you are inducing heavy added flow resistance. This creates MUCH more bypass in the housing than the oem element alone. I have dealt with the added resistance (EOC in my case) by using a housing replacement spring that I can provide as well. Just be aware, the folks using the amsoil have a much lower single pass fraction than non-users, and I believe it is very significant with the stock bypass spring and 3/8" restrictions that have been reported. This was the jist of Geabis statements earlier. Great analysis readings do not require an abundance of filtration, just deep filtration. Keep these things in mind. Running ANY remote filtration reduces filtration flow rate, but this can be remedied the same way. I am just not comfortable "improving" my filtration with "reduced" flow. So I addressed it. probably have beat that to death.

The adapter comes with a mounting "nut", that is normally 1/2" id. Oilguards sandwich adpater was the same. I was unimpressed. I have mine machined with 60% more area, to .63 id.

Ray
Thanks KB

Oil will go from adapter to remote filtration to adapter to element (subject to bypass). No oil is robbed from the lub stream

If this is a true parallel system, do I need any kind of restriction on the bypass filter, or is the pressure difference between the OEM and the bypass adequate to insure proper filtration through both?

Not really applicable

So, if I understand you correctly, your adapter would be in SERIES before the OEM filter. Correct?

In your EOC application - How is the oil flow affected when the t-stat shuts off flow to the heat exchanger when the oil is cold?

Does my idea about using your sandwich adapter to add a bypass oil filter have any merit? Does it warrant pursuing further? If so, would this be something you might consider marketing as well in the near future?

I am thinking about placing the bypass filter on the frame near the OEM filter to reduce hose length and thus reduce friction losses. Using hoses similar to what you are using on your EOC but obviously much shorter.

Would I need the removable thermostat for my intended use?

Another thing to note, when adding any remote filtration with plumbing, you are inducing heavy added flow resistance. This creates MUCH more bypass in the housing than the oem element alone. I have dealt with the added resistance (EOC in my case) by using a housing replacement spring that I can provide as well. The housing replacement spring you refer to, would that replace the filter bypass spring inside the OEM housing or does it go in your sandwich adapter? Will it raise or lower the filter bypass pressure in the housing? How much for this spring?

Thanks for you patience with all my questions.

On Edit: I just relized that I may have hijacked this thread - Moderator, could you move this to another thread so that other may continue with the original thread? Thanks.

So, if I understand you correctly, your adapter would be in SERIES before the OEM filter. Correct?

Yes

In your EOC application - How is the oil flow affected when the t-stat shuts off flow to the heat exchanger when the oil is cold?

The spring covers a hole when hot, uncovers the hole when cold. Bypass occurs when cold, and even when hot, with higher flow rates, the spring is forced open for some bypass. The highest flow rates are seen with the spring removed, and hole plugged.

Does my idea about using your sandwich adapter to add a bypass oil filter have any merit? Does it warrant pursuing further? If so, would this be something you might consider marketing as well in the near future?

I had briefly discussed a bypass filtration option with the EOC, with Nick and Chad. I don't want to be seen interfering in any supporting vendor position, Greg Landuyt for example, makes his living with the Bypass kits, whom I wholeheartily recommend, good Joe. If there is continued requests I will pursue it, but only with said blessings. I would always suggest giving him a call, he may be able to help in ways I can't.

If asking can I supply bypass kits alone, that may or may not be in the cards. I know I can do it, but there is an ethics line.

I am thinking about placing the bypass filter on the frame near the OEM filter to reduce hose length and thus reduce friction losses. Using hoses similar to what you are using on your EOC but obviously much shorter.

Would I need the removable thermostat for my intended use?

No, yours is a case for removing the spring and sealing the hole, a simple nut/bolt will do. Or i can send it to you with this mod already performed, no charge.

The housing replacement spring you refer to, would that replace the filter bypass spring inside the OEM housing or does it go in your sandwich adapter?

It is a direct replacement spring for the housing. It strictly adds to the amount of head loss that must occur before bypass begins at the LPBP pointed out in the earlier pic.


Will it raise or lower the filter bypass pressure in the housing? Raises it, from 15 psi(stock) to 35-40 psi.

How much for this spring? $5

Thanks for you patience with all my questions. No problem. It is a nice break to help someone without devious motives, which I have had to put up with lately:help:
.

Ray, The upper 1/2" port on the oil filter adapter is common (Without Restriction) with the OEM filter clean side. Since I can't find a port common with the OEM filter dirty side (even though one appears that way) I plan to use a sandwich adapter set up for the sole purpose of bypass supply which will not interupt the OEM filter flow and return the oil to the above mentioned 1/2" port. The bypass filter will then parallel the OEM with NO robbing or reduction in flow. In fact filtered flow will be better due to paralleling the OEM. Also I plan to open up the bypass filter orifice from about 40/1000 to about 63/1000 due to bypass return flow no longer returning to a non pressurized port.