put them on my truck today, what a difference. I was just wondering how tight do you put the top nut on the front shocks, how much should the rubber bushings be flatened?

I used Bilstein hardware and tightened until the bushings bulged to about the washer diameter. Six thousand+ miles on them like that so far.


Edited to correct spelling. I should know better than to type in the dark since I am not a touch typist.Edited by: Kartattack

I also tightened the lock nut until the bushing was about the same size as the washer.

Same Here, Just enough Squish...http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

From the do it yourself and usefull articles posted under torque specs by DMAXALLITECH


Shock bolts rear 70ft lb
front upper 15ft lb
front lower 110ft lb


Hope this helps, Fran

Can't wait to get mine

Think maybe some of you guys are doing the front uppers too tight? I like to see my rubber bushing at least 3 times the size of the washer. 15 ft lb's would be about right.


mike

GMCSID posted some specs a while ago. Might want to check the front lower bolt torque.


These are the front suspension specs for an 03 GMC Sierra. I think Eric might have mistyped the 110 lb ft spec.
<H1>Fastener Tightening Specifications</H1>



<TABLE width="100%" border=1><T><T>
<T>
<TR>
<TH vAlign=bottom align=middle rowSpan=2>


Application</TH>
<TH vAlign=bottom align=middle colSpan=2>


Specification</TH></TR>
<TR>
<TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>


Metric</TH>
<TH vAlign=bottom align=middle>


English</TH></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=left>


Axle Shaft Nut</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


210 N·m</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


155 lb ft</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=left>


Brake Hose Bracket Bolt</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


9 N·m</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


80 lb in</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=left>


Brake Hose Clip Bolts</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


12 N·m</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


106 lb in</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=left>


Hub and Bearing Assembly to Steering Knuckle Bolts</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


180 N·m</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


133 lb ft</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=left>


Jounce Bumper Stud Nut</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


30 N·m</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


22 lb ft</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=left>


Lower Ball Joint to Lower Control Arm Nuts</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


70 N·m</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


52 lb ft</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=left>


Lower Ball Joint Stud Nut</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


100 N·m</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


74 lb ft</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center>


Lower Control Arm to Frame Nuts (2WD)</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


145 N·m</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


107 lb ft</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=left>


Lower Control Arm to Frame Nuts (4WD) 25/355 Series 2WD</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


150 N·m</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


110 lb ft</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center>


Oil Pan Skid Plate Bolts</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


20 N·m</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


15 lb ft</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=left>


Shock Absorber Tennon Nut (4WD)</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


20 N·m</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


15 lb ft</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center>


Shock Absorber to Lower Control Arm Bolts (2WD)</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


25 N·m</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


18 lb ft</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=left>


Shock Absorber to Lower Control Arm Nut (4WD)</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


80 N·m</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


59 lb ft</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=left>


Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Clamp Bolts - 15 Series</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


33 N·m</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


24 lb ft</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=left>


Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Clamp Bolts - 25/35 Series</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


50 N·m</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


39 lb ft</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center align=left>


Stabilizer Shaft Link Nuts </TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


10 N·m</TD>
<TD vAlign=center align=middle>


89 lb in</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD vAlign=center>


Torsion Bar Crossmember Bolts</TD>
<TD vAlign=ce

Just curious . . . why the Bilstein's vs. the Rancho 9000's. Im contemplating which way to go right now.

TraderJack, it porbably comes down to personal preference more than anything.


The Bilsteins are "just right", outta the box IMO. In my experience w/ the Ranchos, mine have not held up to salty weather.


Edit: I should add I have no experience on the Bilsteins' durability in comparison to the Ranhos, but based on many posts it appears that they are very durable (ie. claims of 170k w/ no issues). I expect them to last at least 100k (that's just my expectation...)...


The Ranchos offer adjustibility, but unless you have an in-cab controller, most people do not adjust for varying loads...Edited by: Joe E

I have the Rancho's on my `01 truck and have had Bilstein's in the past, I love the Rancho's. I'm very picky about the ride quality, and the adjustment that Rancho offers is right up my alley. I don't have the in cab adjustment but it only takes a second to reach in the wheel well and click them up or down a few settings.


I usually run the fronts on 5 of 9 and the rears on 3 or 4 unless I'm hauling, then the rears get bumped up to about 7 or so depending on the load. IMHO they offer the best all around ride quality, you don't have to sacrafice empty ride for loaded stability or vice-versa. I'm hooked, they're goin on the `03 shortly.

How long (mileage) should Bilstein's last?

How long (mileage) should Bilstein's last?


Had mine on for 60,000 miles .....


I can't tell any difference from the day they were installed.

On my '97 Tahoe I tried the Edelbrock IAS shocks which definitely helped the Tahoe with body roll. I'm just trying to get rid of some of the bounce in this truck. The green keys are going on next week to level it out so i though I'd do the shocks at the same time. I already have the Velvet ride shackles.


I'm just trying to find out if the adjustable 9000's are worth the extra $$ over the Bilsteins or not.

Rookiew/Dmax,


Both the Bilsteins and the Rancho's are lifetime guaranteed for the first truck, first owner, so mileage is not really an issue. It only took me 1.5 hours to do all four. And I'll have my truck long enough to collect on the lifetime guarantee. If you don't want adjust-ability, run the Bilsteins, if you do, run the RSX9000's. Edited by: DavesDmax

Well . . . I think I've been convinced. With the deal of buying 4 for the price of 3 the 9000's are actually less than the Bilsteins. I'm going to give them a go . . .


Thanks . . .


Edited by: Trader Jack

I didn't know they had the 4 for 3 deal going again, do you have a link?





Thanks

I found them at summit racing but you can check this out at Rancho's site.


http://www.gorancho.com/Flash_gorancho_main_new.htm


Only have until April 30 so I guess I'll have to move quick.

TC DMAX


Good catch, I just posted what I thought was correct. Thanks for straightening me out as I would have used those numbers when replacing mine! Thanks again, Fran

I bought mine through www.4wheelparts.com (http://www.4wheelparts.com)


They were $241.00 I think and $15.00 for the UPS guy. He even put them in the garage for me. Maybe for another $10.00, he would have put them on too. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

One question though --


does anyone who has the "green keys" and has raised the front 2" found that the aftermarket shocks meant for non-lifted trucks work fine? or have you used the Rancho's for 4"????

By the sounds of it the non-lifted shocks are best with a small spacer so that they ride in the optimal travel position, for the dampening to perform as intended.