F the jeep! LOL

My soon-to-be Offroad rig (http://www.skynet-mk2.com/photos/cucv)

Now, the 10 dollar question: My experience with 12V equipment on a CUCV is that it's a bad frigging idea. We had a 12v hookup plow on one at work, and that thing ate the batteries bigger than anything. I didn't get a chance to find out what was wrong with it before it was turned in to post, but I want to put a power converter, CB radio, VHF radio, Normal AM/FM, Offroad lights, and some other accessories in it and I'm iffy about it with the 24v system. Not to mention jumping to/from it will be a SOB to boot.

If the only things that run 24v are glow plugs and the starter, couldn't I just rerig the wiring from the batteries+alternator, swap the glow plugs with 12V ones, swap the starter with a 12v civvie model, and just disconnect the resistor that is on the firewall? Please clue me in, because I'd rather run 12v than 24v. Other than that, I don't plan any major modifications to it motor-wise because it's going to be a trail rig. MAYBE turn up the IP but that's doubtful, I plan on snorkeling it though.

Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.

Oh, I am going to upload all CUCV repair books to my site for ya'll to use. It'll be on the same link, but just be the PDF's named what military manual they are.

lol, brand new BFG A/T's probably won't be lasting too long if you get it, eh?

Probably until they wear out, I will be putting cooper mud tires like on the truck now, unless I just go with boggers. METT-T Dependant ;)

Planning on ditching the 10 bolts asap... either just 'mog axles or get a dana 60 and 70.

The CUCV manuals are all uploaded, for anyone to use on this site. Pretty much you can use the 6.2 stuff for any of em, just disregard part numbers because I don't think you can order things by NSN in the "real world" :)

If you do decied to stay with 24V and need a big Warn Wrench for the front of it let me know. I purchased this with the intentions on installing on the front of a trailer but the 24V has me holding off.

Spoolin, for all your CUCV needs, including the manuals, tech articles etc, go to www.steelsoldiers.com we have tech articles on the glow plug system, 12v conversions and more.


Jperry, usually teh 24v warn winches were actually a low rating. The one I have (from a humvee) was only rated at 6000 lbs. I 'think' they made an 8000 rating, but I am not sure. The 6k was alot more popular.

This one I have is very large. Not sure what the rating is but the cable is like 7/16 and the wrench is really massive. Not to hijack the thread but is there anyway to convert this to 12V?

manuals, -20's etc are easy for me to get, I'm AD Army.

Jperry, PM me a pic? we can talk about it in PM some more...

Spoolin, I realize that the manuals are easy... made the mention for everyone, plus the tech articles as well.

BTW, there should be no problem keeping the 12/24v system and running 12v things. With the way the system is designed, most the stuff runs off the one battery anyway. I suspect there was something else wrong in the plow truck you speak of :-)

BTW, your truck looks nice!!

You could go either way I have a cucv that is all 12 volt I only had one alternater for it when I got it. Switched the wiring so the batteries were in parallel instead of series and put on 12v starter, ditch the resister and the same glow plugs will work. We also have a cucv at the vol fire co I belong to that is still 24v I just ran a power feed off of the batteries to a power post and ran all the lighting, radio's etc off that, works fine.

CHeck out
http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/rec_start.htm

They can guide you through(with pics) on two different options for 12v conversions, pros and cons etc.

I'm keeping the double alts, and putting a spare plate in for mounting 2 more batteries up behind the drivers side headlights. Swap to pass-side batt's and alt running the vehicle ONLY, and all accessories running off of drivers side alt and batteries. That way, I can make sure I can winch alll I want :)

Stuff to beef: Ditch the 10 bolts, get 1 ton axles, toss on ARB lockers and call 'er a day.

Accessories to be added:

6x 100w 240 Blitz Lightforce lights, 2 IR, rest visible, on to-be-built front bumper
6x 170 Stryker 100w lightforce lights, 2 IN front bumper set up as pseudo-fogs, 2 in rear bumper for reverse lighting, 1 mounted on each side for side illum
VHF radio on locally operated commercial freq (we even have a repeater)
CB radio
Stereo
16k winch front
16k winch rear
PA with stereo/CB/VHF output wired in for external broacast
2kw AC Converter
12v air compressor underhood, tank to be mounted behind spare
day/night camera system mounted center of roof, flipdown screen on ceiling
vehicular PC w/ GPS, GPS antenna externally mounted on roof

To do all this I will probably be installing a "black box" of sorts that will house the actual electronics. Keep it above floor level.

And I am probably going to get 2 military antennae to mount on the back quarters Just because it'd look cool. LOL

Very clean and straight blazer. Have fun with it.
Did the military beef up any parts on the blazer's like they did the trucks?
If you need an extra battery mount I have one that I am going to replace with a new one. The old one has slight rust but shold be easy to clean up. You are welcome to have it if you want. Just give me some time to move into my new house and I can get it for you.

Very clean and straight blazer. Have fun with it.
Did the military beef up any parts on the blazer's like they did the trucks?
If you need an extra battery mount I have one that I am going to replace with a new one. The old one has slight rust but shold be easy to clean up. You are welcome to have it if you want. Just give me some time to move into my new house and I can get it for you.

The military didn't really beef the trucks up period, the pickups were simply SRW 3500's, and the blazers were stock.

Although I appreciate the battery mount offer, I am probably just going to fab up something. Put a large enough plate to be able to put the batteries and the air compressor on.

I plan on having my buddy here in town that owns an auto shop build the front and rear bumpers, plus my rocker guards. The rocker guards as well as front and rear bumpers will primarily be 2x6 steel, and I'll have 1" cable mounted off of that as a stirrup step.

btw if you need help moving, let me know, I am still on leave and have free time to kill.

Looks good:cool2: Nice upgrade ideas as well. So why didn't you buy one "direct?" Is the Gov a little picky on that? Afraid you'll not only get a deal but a "Deal Deal?":D):h):h

Getting a cutv from the mil is a pain. Getting one in good condition is a bigger pain. This one has a known history beyond the military, so I am pleased. It's already lifted, so I am pleased. It's from the air force, so I am VERY pleased. The Army's rather....hard on vehicles.

I'm keeping the double alts, and putting a spare plate in for mounting 2 more batteries up behind the drivers side headlights. Swap to pass-side batt's and alt running the vehicle ONLY, and all accessories running off of drivers side alt and batteries. That way, I can make sure I can winch alll I want :)

This is a good idea here :-) I had considered doing something along this line, but really didnt have a need.



Stuff to beef: Ditch the 10 bolts, get 1 ton axles, toss on ARB lockers and call 'er a day.

Are you going with the ones from the M1008 with 4.56 gears? I was going to put a set of 3/4 ton ones in mine, and decided for what I use mine for, it wasnt worth the effort.

12v air compressor underhood, tank to be mounted behind spare

Have you considered using an air-conditioning pump for a compressor? I have used one in the past, and they work great.

And I am probably going to get 2 military antennae to mount on the back quarters Just because it'd look cool. LOL

If you get the right antenna, you can modify it to be used for your CB. I have yet to find a mil antenna though, that can be used in the VHF High-band, but if your frequency is in VHF low-band, you can use the mil antenna for that as well.


Keep a good photo journal on your progress :-) and be sure to share.

Low end of what you'll see on a trail in Alaska:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/eberg/K-lift-9.jpg


High end of what you'll see in alaska on a trail:

http://www.akfabshop.com/images/Freak/third.jpg

Onboard air:
With the rig I will be doing, an electric will do fine. I'd have to dig to find a York otherwise.

Axles:
Considering the fab capabilities I have up here, a dana 60 up front and a 14 bolt FF in the back will do me fine. Don't care where from, they'll get regeared and ARB'ed unless the gears are right from the get-go. I'll probably max out at 38's on this rig. Anything bigger and it'd be a trail-only rig, and I don't want that. If it ends up that it will cost the same, I will just get some 'mog 404 axles and put them underneath it.

Antennae:
Last time I played with any at work, they're hollow. I can just get thin coax, gut the base, cut the shielding off to provide the right length of radiating element, put a bit of epoxy on the top so it can't ground inside the antenna, and slip it thru the antenna to where the radiating portion is up high. Maintain the mil look, but get my functionality out of it at the same time. I'll probably do the same with the CB antenna, to get the best SWR out of it. Either way, I'll get'er done.

The biggest reason for the 12v conversion is repairability with locally purchased parts. I'll be skimming all the forums I find for what seems to be the most failure-prone points of the 6.2 in stock form, and carrying a full replacement for that part with me.

If everything goes right, I'm getting a normal Military trailer with it as well, and I will end up outfitting it with generator-welder, heavy duty compressor and larger tank, and multiple waterproof toolboxes all compartmentalized and waterproofed. Pretty much a service body on wheels, that will be submergable if need be when closed. Toss a rack on top of that for strapping down any random crap that I can't fit in the blazer, or the moose I end up shooting ;)