Which 4" lifts are compatable with the H2/315 combo backspacing?

How about 6" lifts?





Anyone have a Tuff country with the H2 wheels?

yep, but no lift. the tires are as wide as 305's and only as tall as a 265, but they work well if your not towing much...say 5k or less.





Burner----------> http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

I have no idea what you are saying. The H2 backspacing will play a factor. The tires are 315's. ???????????????


I'm looking for folks with lifted trucks who have successfully mounted H2's.

This truck is not lifted. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Sony_CD_023.jpg


I don't know if you can see the wheels but they are H2 rims and Wild Country Mudders. The 315's will not fit unless the truck has a 6" lift. However the smaller tires, they are about the same size as 265's, will wrok really well. I'll get the "exact" size later this afternoon. BTW, don't worry about the backspacing, the tire will only stick out about an inch more. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif





Burner--------------> http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

"The 315's will not fit unless the truck has a 6" lift. "


Hello again Burner,


A number of people have put on the H2 takeoffs, with 315's and only torsion bar lifting.


"BTW, don't worry about the backspacing, the tire will only stick out about an inch more."


Huh!http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Question.gif Backspacing has EVERYTHING to do with whether or not a lift (or any suspension) will rub the rims or tires. Rubbing cannot be avoided without rims of the correct backspacing. It is the inside of the rim (not the outside) that is the problem. I don't care how much they stick out. That is the nature of my question, which you never addressed. I mean thank you for trying to help, but, again, back to my question:


Which 4-6" lifts are compatable with the H2/315 combo backspacing?

I think the superlift kit is compatible. Any lift that keeps the upper control arm in the stock location and uses an extended spindle requires wheels with less backspacing. Like fabtech requires 4 5/8 backspacing for their lift which is much less than the hummer wheels.

David

pROCESS OF ELIMINATION IS GOOD! Strike the fabtech.


Anyone have the superlift and H2's?

The H2 Wheels and tires fit my truck. I went with a 2" front leveling kit from Off Road Unlimited in Burbank, California. Their web site is;

http://offroadunlimited.com/new/whats_new/whats_new_inside_index.html

With the kit, installation, alignment, and 4 new Bilstein shocks it cost about $600.00. Here are a few photos;

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/CCA_Web_Grill_04.jpg

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/5Z1_Web_Grill_03.jpg

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/3C8_Web_Grill_07.jpg

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/897_Web_Grill_06.jpg

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/BEZ_Web_Duramax_02.jpg

Got a great deal on the wheels and tires too. Take-off from a new H2, $950 for the set! Yes, wheels and tires!

BTW, no rubbing. I had to trim the right inner fender very slightly, and on the left side inner fender I had to zip tie the parking brake cable to keep it from pushing on the inner fender for a slight rubbing on "HARD" left turns.

It's a glorified set of green keys. Not a real LIFT.

David

I do like your truck and is basically the same as my dad's lift. I fit 305 70 16s fine. I am just noting that this is not a suspension lift kit. Nice pics ThoEdited by: dag45661999

masterp2 the H2s will definately work w/ CST and Superlift. The spindle lifts require no more than approx 4 1/2" backspacing BUT that may be based on a 16" wheel. Since the H2s are 17" they may work but I would continue to ask around and see if someone can confirm that.

With the kit, installation, alignment, and 4 new Bilstein shocks it cost about $600.00.
cadent44 I know ORU is a well respected shop down here in SoCal but they rape people and they did the same to you. The shocks shouldn't run more than $280 and thats on the high side, the torsion bar keys $50 and the alignment maybe $80 which means they charged you for 2.5 hours worth of labor at almost $75/hour http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cry.gif I know it's already a done deal just be careful when dealing w/ them.Edited by: y2kboti

I got my H2 takeoffs for $450/set, with hummer caps, I bought 5. Anyone wanting the same can PM mail me. They are available in Phoenix area, not shipped, and not chromed. You likely can fid the same deal in your area, from the local Hummer dealer. That is a great deal for tires/rims mounted and balanced. Better than spending over 2K. Heck I can sell my takeoffs now for what I paid for the H2's. Anyone want the stock aluminum wheels/tires, 6 miles?


Thanks for the feedback all. Those are nice pics cadent44.


Looks like I will be doing the same.


I would like to know if anyone has tried to modify the downward travel bump stop. I think 2" lift would be fine, but not thrilled about the reduction in travel apparently causing ride quality issues (many posts) Has anyone attempted to mount the rubber upper stop closer to the control A arm, looking for ride improvement?

I would like to know if anyone has tried to modify the downward travel bump stop. I think 2" lift would be fine, but not thrilled about the reduction in travel apparently causing ride quality issues (many posts) Has anyone attempted to mount the rubber upper stop closer to the control A arm, looking for ride improvement?





Not sure if you'd want to modify the downward travel stop, since it would allow even greater CV angles. From other posts, it appears the current stop position is near the limit of the CV (but I've not checked myself).


In my opinion in cranking the torsion bars, there is a nice area where there is about 1/2 inch between the upper rubber stop and the control arm which gives a softer ride but still about 1.5 -2" lift. If there is not enough lift the rubber stop comes into play too much, and If there is too much lift, the arms are pointing so far down that the shockload is less dissipated through the shock absorber, plus most shocks don't tend to work as well at the end of their travel. Just my .02.


Jeff

[QUOTE=masterp2]


If there is not enough lift the rubber stop comes into play too much, and If there is too much lift, the arms are pointing so far down that the shockload is less dissipated through the shock absorber, Jeff





Good thought here. Changing the stop location would be bone-headed. However when you do the lift you move FURTHER from the rubber stop. And this stop also appears to be a spring, acting much like the rear overloads. If trying to recapture stock ride, you would move the rubber closer to stock spacing (not advocating this necessarily) But until contact, the torsion bar (very low spring rate) is doing the "suspending". By increasing the distance to travel during compression, the a-arm might be slamming onto the stop harder. If you already said that, I'm just thinking out loud. Extra damping (overdamping) keeps that momentum down.


The leverage change on the shock, is that what you are saying?


My thought is that bilsteins are overdamping, which is helping to disguise the ride deterioration. The effect of a 2" torsion lift is to extend the low spring rate upward travel, while nearly eliminating downward travel. The bilstein keeps compression under control, reducing the slamming that results from the extra spacing from the rubber, and then the rebound, which the bilstein is noted for in it's damping. What is a fact is that the replacement bilstein is topping out on these trucks, and it might be by design (but I have to wonder what were they thinking!). If that pogo feel is eliminated by bilsteins, it is because of overdamping and rebound treatment at the top of it's travel. Good thing it has a lifetime warranty, because bilstein is replacing a lot of these off of torsion lift applications that come back from an off-road trip.


What I say is put a small foam stop on the steel downward travel stop, and a 1" extension on the shock mount (saw someone else do this). This mod has improved turning traction as well, the drooping tire will be less inclined to lift off the surface (skip) in a hard turn if it has a bit more travel. Just a thought.


Jeli's 1" solution


http://community.webshots.com/photo/88696193/89385145dfLcZx


that 1" spacer probably equates to 2-3" of wheel travel, and also keeps the leverage arm nearer the stock unlifted value. From a failure risk perspective, those holes better be drilled small, so the new bolt has to be tapped through the aluminum, otherwise I see major sheer stress at full downstroke. Broken bolts or worse, a new a-arm on the purchase list.Edited by: masterp2

When it comes to Chevy/GMC pickup trucks and their suspension, y2kboti knows about as much as anyone.


Asn he stated Superlift and CST lifts work great.


Most of the lifts now days goes the low cost way and replace the spindles.


The Hummer take offs will not work with Fabtech, Rancho, or many other lifts.

And will superlift and CST extend my H2 wheels out?

And will superlift and CST extend my H2 wheels out?


No! at least not enough to notice, But I do not think either of them will change the width any at all.

Is that leveling kit from ORU just their version of the GM green keys?


Brian

Is that leveling kit from ORU just their version of the GM green keys?


Brian





That would be a big fat YES!

Ok - I'm trying to separate fact from fiction here.... Is anyone using H2 wheels and their stock tires (the BFG 315's) WITHOUT a lift kit - i.e. just leveled out with the torsion bars cranked up (just kick me if I'm dreaming....)?


At the local Hummer dealer here in Vegas, they want $1,000 for four wheels with tires.


Rick

Yes Rick


Do a search. This question has been answered in droveshttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Wink.gif. The photos above are a torsion lift, attainable without purchasing a thing.


$1000 is ridiculous I think (yet still a good value if you think about it), but economics rules.


Edited by: masterp2

Thanks, Michael..... I travel to So. Cal. pretty regularly, so I'm going to hold for a better deal. Even with shipping included, I can do better than $1,000 from a place in Houston that I saw on e-bay.


Rick

Heck, if you call 10 Hummer dealers, I'll bet you can get one to take a $450 offer.

If you don't want chromes, you can buy a complete set from Prestige Products in Los Angeles for $500, if you want chromes, I paid $950. You can call Tina or Scott at (323) 724-8700.Edited by: cadent44

All great posts. Thank you all


Back to superlift and CST. For those experienced with them, which is easier to install? Does either require irreversible mods or cutting?


Gosh, I wish there was a simple 3-4" lift that kept support angles stock.Edited by: masterp2

Just do a body lift. Install the green keys, get an alignment and be done with it. Then you will not have to worry about it. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif

Can a body lift be done on the front only, to level the truck?

Can a body lift be done on the front only, to level the truck?





No. A body lift actually seperates the body from the frame adding 3" spacers in between. If you were to lift the front but not the back, the cab would be sitting 3" higher then the box.


If you want to lift just the front you should crank the torsion bars or get the green keys.

[/QUOTE]


Jeli's 1" solution


http://community.webshots.com/photo/88696193/89385145dfLcZx


that 1" spacer probably equates to 2-3" of wheel travel, and also keeps the leverage arm nearer the stock unlifted value. From a failure risk perspective, those holes better be drilled small, so the new bolt has to be tapped through the aluminum, otherwise I see major sheer stress at full downstroke. Broken bolts or worse, a new a-arm on the purchase list.


[/QUOTE]


I've been out of town for a couple weeks.


The 1" spacer started out as a temporary fix. After raising the front 2.5" the stock shocks were too stiff. Someone else had done this so I tried it. After 10K miles I haven't had any problems and do not plan on removing them. The dealer didn't say anything when they replaced my A-arm under warranty...not that I expected them to. As for design I kept the holes as small as possible but did not thread them. You want max clamping power so the clamping friction holds the load not the bolts in shear. I made sure to use the same grade of bolt as factory either 9.8 or 10.8 I'd have to look.


If anyone is considering this DO NOT go over 1" thick! The lower shock bolt had to be reversed to clear the axle shaft and a taller spacer will interfere.

"The dealer didn't say anything when they replaced my A-arm under warranty...not that I expected them to."


Why was it replaced? I didn't know this was a drilling mod.

Masterp2,


Here are a few pictures of my 2002 2WD Crew with H2's and a Fabtec spindle kit....Works great now that I trimmed the bumper and the front Valance panel. I also put 2" blocks in the back so it levels out when I'm towing my trailer.


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/EE2_Truck02_Rear.jpg


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Truck02_Lt_Side.JPG


http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/Truck02_Bow-Tie.jpg

Did you have the H2's when you did the lift? How did you know it would work?





BTW, I have 4wd, so that may be a problem. A previous post said the Fabtech requires less than 4 5/8 backspacing. What's the real deal?Edited by: masterp2

masterp2,


I did have the lift before the H2's but, I did not install it until I had the rims and tires to install. I think trucks with alot of "air" between the tires and truck looks silly!


I didn't know if the rims would work, I called Fabtec and they said: Uh, I don't know..So, according to the posts on this site it would work, and I started installing. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Thumbs Up.gif


Also, the Fabtech spindles, and "All" spindles I was told, are only for 2WD Trucks. There is no way you could get a half-shaft into the hole in the hub.


About the back spacing...I have an "RCH" between my wheel weight and the spindle! You could not go any more in the backspacing! I think the backsapcing is 4 5/8"


I hope this helps?????

Sorry I'm behind on my e-mail abbreviations. "I have an "RCH" between my wheel weight and the spindle!"


RCH is nomenclature for verry little space??


Isn't H2 backspacing 5.5"??


????????

02AlliMax,

Nice looking truck! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif
Edited by: cadent44

Sorry I'm behind on my e-mail abbreviations. "I have an "RCH" between my wheel weight and the spindle!"


RCH is nomenclature for verry little space??


Isn't H2 backspacing 5.5"??


????????





First question; I can not help you with, the second one, you are correct. I would think that wheel spacers would be needed for the Hummer take offs with most if not all spindle lifts.

"The dealer didn't say anything when they replaced my A-arm under warranty...not that I expected them to."


Why was it replaced? I didn't know this was a drilling mod.





Torn ball joint boot. The only way to replace is a new A-arm.

cadent44 - Thanks for the heads-up on Prestige Products. They have the best deal in the west - I just picked up my set of 4 H2 wheels / tires from Tina today for $500 plus tax. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Cool.gif





I love them!! Now it looks like a truck - it only took minor trimming (although it felt more like brain surgery when I realized I was carving pieces off a brand new truck...). No lift - I only cranked up the torsion bars to level the truck.





Rick

Rick, did you notice a change in ride quality? I did. Noticed I couldn't hardly keep my foot on the gas pedal level. BOUNCY, with bilsteins. Brought it down a ways, some improvement, need to look at shimming the Jounce closer to the a-arm.

Michael - They've been on less than 24 hours, but so far they seem to smooth out the ride. I haven't noticed any real bounce - but I would expect to continue to have some bounce on the freeway (for example those lovely So Cal freeways are always a problem; Phoenix a little less so...).


Rick

lowered to about inch and a half, and ride is better than stock, very smooth now, a bit more trimming but worth it. I'm pretty sure the higher pogo ride is a result of having nearly no shock extension left.


Now will probably remove the overloads and add sleeve airbags. Still toying with flipping vs. removing.