Well first off, lets start with the oil change. Just to make sure, it takes 10 quarts correct? I looked at my manual and that's what it said.

I have 5k miles on the truck, do I go by miles or do I go by the meter in my dash?

What is the best oil to use?

What about the filter?

Anything special that I have to do on the oil change before, during, or after its done?

Thanks in advance!

1) That's what my LB7 takes so it wouldn't surprise me
2) I'd go by the meter in the dash.
3) Delvac 1 IMO
4) Mobil M1-303 IMO
5) Lube the front end ... 11 zerks on the front end of my '02, a couple are kinda tricky to find and even trickier to get to

Ditto... except for the "break in" period.
1st change at 2k, 2nd at 5k, following the DIC after that.

Don't overlook the differentials... many are as much as 2 quarts low factory fill. They should be changed by 2k anyways.

ZFMax, Where do I find Delvac 1? Who makes it? I never heard of it, that's why I'm asking. This is my first diesel truck, that is why I have these questions. How important is it to get a quality filter? Will my front end have 11 zerks being a 2WD?

RichLockyer, 1st change at 2k? I've already passed 2k, I'm at 5k now. So did I already mess up? What's DIC? In my case, I would only have 1 differential as its 2WD. So you're saying that the differential needs to be changed every 2k miles as well or just the first 2k as that's its break in period? You confused me on your reply.

How important is it to get a quality filter?
Just stay away from Fram. I'll use either Amsoil's new EO, M1, or AC, with the first two being synthetic media and the AC being cellulose (traditional paper).
Will my front end have 11 zerks being a 2WD?
Ya... only difference is you won't have the front drive system and the spindles are a little different. 2wd and 4wd front components are similar, being IFS.
I've already passed 2k, I'm at 5k now. So did I already mess up? What's DIC?
You're fine... I just like to get the factory oil out and switch to synthetic at about 2k on new vehicles, but 5k didn't hurt anything.
DIC is the Driver Information Center... the display at the bottom of the instrument cluster. It will tell you when you need an oil change, roughly every 7500-12000 depending on your driving habits.
When you change your oil, reset the computer by turning the key on, then depressing the pedal to the floor, IIRC, 3 times and it will reset. If you have steering wheel controls, cycle through the "gas pump" button until you see "Oil life" and press and hold the reset button.

Fuel filter will need to be changed every 10k-15k, depending on the quality of your fuel supply... my first two filters looked good at 10k and probably could have gone another 10, but it only takes one tank to plug one (I keep a spare filter under the back seat).
In my case, I would only have 1 differential as its 2WD. So you're saying that the differential needs to be changed every 2k miles as well or just the first 2k as that's its break in period?
Just the break in. Personally, I'll change the diff every 25k after the initial change whether I'm towing or not. It's $40 and cheap insurance, plus the opportunity to check the magnet for larger peices of gear material that could forecast a major failure on the road.

I used 10 quarts of Rotella T 15w40 motor oil, AC Delco PF2232 filter, original Allison spin on filter #29539579 and don't lose the magnet on top of the filter, top off the Allison filter with Dextron 6 (dealer item) several times then reinstall. Change out the rear (4 quarts) differential lube with Mobil1 75w90 synthetic gear oil. Now is a good time to do it. I'll change my transfer case at 5000 miles, that's next. Mike Z

Around town, I have Autozone, Oreilly, and Napa. I'm sure if I went further out, I could find other part stores.

Is there any motor oil that I need to stay away from?

Since this is my first oil change, should I swap over to synthetic or should I stick with regular oil?

Should I go ahead and change the oil now or wait till the DIC says to?

I have the steering wheel controls, so then I'll need to reset it through there correct?

On the fuel filter, do I go by the DIC or by mileage?

Do I need to change the differential as well now or wait? If I change it now, should I stick with regular oil or go to synthetic? What oil do you recommend (weight/brand).

Around town, I have Autozone, Oreilly, and Napa. I'm sure if I went further out, I could find other part stores. Is there any motor oil that I need to stay away from?
Anything that is not CH-4/CI-4 or higher (dunno when CJ will be out).
For synthetics, you can pretty much only get Shell Rotella-T 5w40 readily OTC right now. Mobil-1 turbodiesel formula is scheduled for release mid-April, but has not yet hit the shelves. Some truck stops will have Delvac-1, which is basically the same as the old Mobil-1 "Truck and SUV" formula. Mobil change T&SUV, and it is now a 5w30 and is for gassers only.

For non-synthetics, Chevron Delo 15w40 and Shell Rotella 15w40 are two of the more popular oils, but again, as long as it's a CH/I-4, you're safe.

You can go mail-order and go with Amsoil like I did. They offer a 15w40 synthetic that is as good as Mobil-1, but delivered to your door. Depending on how close you are to the warehouse, in a couple of days. Pay the $20/year to become a preferred customer and you save quite a bit... when I bought my ATF (TorqueDrive), retail was $175 for 20 quarts, I paid about $125.
Since this is my first oil change, should I swap over to synthetic or should I stick with regular oil?
I would go synth immediately.
Should I go ahead and change the oil now or wait till the DIC says to?
I would go now and then follow the DIC. If you run synthetic, you're plenty safe. The oil will look black from soot almost immediately... but better in the oil than collecting in the engine :)
I have the steering wheel controls, so then I'll need to reset it through there correct?
That's the easiest way to do it.
On the fuel filter, do I go by the DIC or by mileage?
I would do the first change at 10k, then see how the filter looks. That will give you an idea of the condition of the fuel in your area. Like I said, one tank of bad fuel can plug a filter in 100 miles and throw you into limp mode, but if you cut open a filter at 10k and it looks like this (http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/chevy/Filter9k-1.jpg), you should be good to go to the 15k recommended by the DIC. That filter has about 9k on it.
Do I need to change the differential as well now or wait? If I change it now, should I stick with regular oil or go to synthetic? What oil do you recommend (weight/brand).
I would change it now, then go 25k or 50k, your choice.
The rear is an LSD and requires synthetic. Mobil-1 75w90 is about $10/qt and is very good. GM installs "grape juice" and it's about $20/qt :eek:

ZFMax, Where do I find Delvac 1? Who makes it? I never heard of it, that's why I'm asking. This is my first diesel truck, that is why I have these questions. How important is it to get a quality filter? Will my front end have 11 zerks being a 2WD?

Delvac 1 is the diesel engine version of Mobil 1. You can get it at most Mobil distributors, at some truck stops, or online at http://www.avlube.com

I can't quantify for you how important a good filter is. I jut know that filters with synthetic media, like the Mobil M1-303 I suggested, are supposedly more efficient.

A Filtermag around the filter is a good idea as well. Put one around your fuel filter as well. http://www.filtermag.com

Yes, your truck probably has 11 zerks as well. If I remember correctly:

1 for each ball joint (4)
1 for each tie rod end (4)
2 on the idler arm
1 on the pitman arm

But don't quote me on that.

Many many new vehicles come with synthetic oil as the factory fill. The notion that engines won't break-in properly is considered by Mobil to be a baseless myth. There's nothing about synthetic that makes it inherently more slippery than dinosaur juice. Read about it on Mobil's "myths" page: http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx

1 for each ball joint (4)
1 for each tie rod end (4)
2 on the idler arm
1 on the pitman arm
You got it.

Top one on the idler arm is hard to see and get to with the front splash guard installed.
The one on the pitman and the lower one on the idler are a PITA to get to since they point straight up... need an 18" flex hose.


I can't stress enough the importance of lubing these properly. I don't know where the grease goes, but mine take 3-4 pumps every time I'm under there. Don't put so much in that you pop the boots loose... feel them and watch for stress or grease oozing out.
Some owners have reported balljoint failures as quickly as 25k... I would be willing to bet that they did not lube them... something generally overlooked by quickie-lube places, and even some dealerships.

A rundown, change it now, go by the DIC from there on out, swap over to synthetic, use 10 quarts of oil, reset the meter with the steering wheel controls, grease the 11 fittings every oil change, change the diffferential oil now as well, then 25k-50k from there on out, and use synthetic there as well. Then at 10k miles change the fuel filter, cut it open to see how it looks and get an idea how the fuel in my area is? How exactly do I do this?

What do you mean GM uses grape juice for $20/quart? Which oil do you most recommend for the rear, the Mobil 1 you mentioned?

I'm confused on the grade of oil, in the beginning you say don't use anything higher than CH-4/CI-4, but when you mention non-synthetics, I'll be safe as long as its CH/I-40.

Then, as far as synthetics go, the only one I'll be able to find over the counter is Shell Rotella T 5w40 and if I don't mind ordering, I can get Amsoil? Then there's Delvac 1 which is the diesel version of Mobil 1. However, Mobil 1 Turbodiesel Formula is soon to come out sometime this month? So all in all, what synthetic do you most recommend?

For the filter, if I go synthetic oil, then I need to use a synthetic media type filter?

What about the Filtermag, what is it and how many of you use it? Is it worth it?

A rundown, change it now, go by the DIC from there on out, swap over to synthetic, use 10 quarts of oil, reset the meter with the steering wheel controls, grease the 11 fittings every oil change, change the diffferential oil now as well, then 25k-50k from there on out, and use synthetic there as well.
That's what I do.
Then at 10k miles change the fuel filter, cut it open to see how it looks and get an idea how the fuel in my area is? How exactly do I do this?
Couple of ways. Some guys buy an $80 filter cutter (hey, any excuse to buy a tool, right? :D), but I just use a pair of pliers and "peel" the steel away from the plastic at the edge like an old canned ham.
What do you mean GM uses grape juice for $20/quart? Which oil do you most recommend for the rear, the Mobil 1 you mentioned?
Ya, GM's factory fluid is nicknamed "grapejuice" because of it's purple color. Being a dealer-only item, it is extremely overpriced.
Normal use, M1 75w90. Heavy towing, M1 75w140 (I think it's $16/qt).
I'm confused on the grade of oil, in the beginning you say don't use anything higher than CH-4/CI-4, but when you mention non-synthetics, I'll be safe as long as its CH/I-40.
You said "Any oils I should stay away from" and I said "Anything that's not CH-4/CI-4 or higher"... IOTW, don't use oils that are CD/CF/CG unless they also carry the CH/CI ratings. Many/most automotive oils are currently CD or even CF.
Any CH-4/CI-4 oil is going to be fine.
Then, as far as synthetics go, the only one I'll be able to find over the counter is Shell Rotella T 5w40 and if I don't mind ordering, I can get Amsoil? Then there's Delvac 1 which is the diesel version of Mobil 1. However, Mobil 1 Turbodiesel Formula is soon to come out sometime this month? So all in all, what synthetic do you most recommend?
Personally, due to the availability issues with Mobil-1, I switched to Amsoil on my last change and will probably stick with it since I can simply place an order online Thursday night and the box is at my door when I get home Monday. No driving to 10 different Wal-Marts to collect 10 quarts of oil.

Amsoil and Mobil-1 are both superior oils to Shell Rotella 5w40, however, even the Rotella is better than a straight 15w40 non-synthetic.

Remember, the truck's DIC assumes non-synthetic, so you are "safe" with anything with the proper rating and weight range for your temps... synthetic just give you that extra level of confidence and better cold-flow in the morning.
For the filter, if I go synthetic oil, then I need to use a synthetic media type filter?
Any oil is suitable for any filter, and vice/versa (though Fram and Pennzoil filters are junk).
Just as synthetic oil is better than dino, synthetic filtering media is better than cellulose... the media is capable of filtering to a smaller size contaminant without creating excessive flow resistance, and perhaps more importantly, the media is more consistent across it's entire surface... you won't find that part of the filter is good for 2 microns and another part is passing 50 micron contaminants.
What about the Filtermag, what is it and how many of you use it? Is it worth it?
It's not going to hurt anything. Worth it? I don't know. The stock magnet on top of the Allison filter, combined with the magnets in the bottom of the pan, will handle that duty for the trans. I think it would be a waste of money there.
For the engine oil filter, I've never been that worried about it and allow the filters and oil to do their jobs... never had a premature wear issue. If they weren't so expensive (aren't they like $60?), I'd pop one on, again just for the added insurance, but personally, I don't think they're worth it.

Ok, I think I have it all down now. To add onto my rundown from earlier, I'm going to use Mobil 1 75W90 for my rear end and that is a synthetic oil. On the motor oil, use anything CH/I-4 or higher. Then on the oil filter, stay away from Fram and Pennzoil.

Do I need any GM posi attitive? How many quarts of gear oil will I need? Do I need to buy a gasket or just make my own for the cover with some silicone?

I'm going to try and look around for the Mobil 1 and if I don't find it, I may consider using the Amsoil. Either way I go, which weight do I need?

Do I need any GM posi attitive? How many quarts of gear oil will I need? Do I need to buy a gasket or just make my own for the cover with some silicone? You should NOT need any Posi additives with the G80 locker differential. The nominal amounts are 2 Quarts for the Front Diff and 4 Quarts for the Rear Diff. You will not be able to add that amount since some small amounts of gear lube will remain after you drain them but it will be pretty close.
I'm going to try and look around for the Mobil 1 and if I don't find it, I may consider using the Amsoil. Either way I go, which weight do I need?You will want to look in your Diesel Owners Supplement in the glove box to familiarize yourself with the GM recomended oil weights. If you decide on synthetic oils you will find that most of the CI-4 CH-4 rated oils including Shell Rotella-T Synthetic, as well as Mobil Delvac 1 and Turbo Diesel Truck are 5W-40. Amsoil is one of very few manufacturers that also makes a 15W-40 synthetic with the CI-4 CH-4 rating.

So if I don't go with Amsoil, then I have no choice but to use 5W40 for the synthetics that are out there. Is there anything wrong with using 5W40?

I wouldn't have a problem running 5w40 synth year round. A lot of people do. There ARE other 15w40 options for synth, but not OTC, and perhaps not as convenient as Amsoil. If you can find a Schaeffer's or RedLine dealer who processes orders and ships quickly, then those are two other options, but they don't sell direct online.
My experience with Amsoil has been good, but they are shipping to my area from the Las Vegas warehouse. I'm not sure what shipping time is to Texas.

A Filtermag around the filter is a good idea as well. Put one around your fuel filter as well. http://www.filtermag.com


ZFMax what is the part number for the Filtermag, web shows zero.:confused:

So if I don't go with Amsoil, then I have no choice but to use 5W40 for the synthetics that are out there. Is there anything wrong with using 5W40?Actually, 5W-40 synthetic gives you better protection during cold starts even during 70°+ F ambient temperatures and hotter. Once the engine has warmed up, the oil doesn't know what the outside temperature is. temperature is controlled by the thermostats. Even during hot weather, the synthetic oils have much better resistance to breakdown from heat.

Amsoil and Mobil-1 are both superior oils to Shell Rotella 5w40, however, even the Rotella is better than a straight 15w40 non-synthetic.

Rich,

How did you come to the conslusion that Mobil-1 and Amsoil are "superior" oils to Rotella T ??? The reason I am asking is that every farmer ( people that definitely depend on there equipment for a living ;) ) that I know and every diesel mechanic that I have ever talked to swears by Rotella and Shell Lubircants ??


Thanks,

Scott

every diesel mechanic that I have ever talked to swears by Rotella and Shell Lubircants ??
It's all good stuff, but Rotella, as well as the Valvoline and Castrol synthetics are a group-III mineral base, not a true group-V PAO synthetic.

Amsoil actually buys it's base stocks from Mobil.

Prior to the Mobil/Castrol lawsuit, group-III synthetics and synthetic blends could not be marketed as "synthetic". Castrol started it, Mobil sued, and the jury (12 really smart petrochemists :rolleyes:) ruled against Mobil.

On a UOA at 20k, you will probably find little difference between Rotella 5w40 and Delvac-1. Like I said, it's all good stuff. Running a bypass filter and extending to 60k, you probably will.