: New Cat pre-filter bypass valve
DRBEAR 04-17-2004, 12:24 AM I wanted more permanent connections to my fuel line and a way to bypass a clogged pre-filter on the road. I made a manifold consisting of swagelok fittings to the fuel line, tee's to the Cat filter and a full flow ball valve in between to allow the bypass. I used Parker 5/8" hydraulic fittings and teflon braided steel hose for the connection to the Perma-Cool filter head. I kept my heavy duty mounting bracket/skid plate to hopefully make this a trouble free application.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/4F8_new_bypass_valve.jpg
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/uploads/complete_fuel_filter.jpg
That's a very sweet setup!!! How much $$$$ did you have to plop down for all of those fittings & steel braided lines?
DRBEAR 04-17-2004, 09:22 AM Altogether, around $140.00 for the fittings. That was definitely the largest expense in my setup, but I'm satisfied with the results. I just fired it up. No priming or trouble after running for 10 minutes...and best of all (so far http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif ) no leaks. I sure feel better about my fuel, especially after seeing all the crud in the fuel line (see my other post on this).
jbplock 04-17-2004, 09:33 AM Very nice job!! http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Clap.gif Are the fittings on your teflon hoses JIC ? They look like the ones I used on my oil bypass filter - very high quality.
Also, I may be mistaken but IIRC, JIC compression fittings are not rated for vacuum. But probably ok in this application. I seem to remember others using compression fittings for rail mounted filters with no problems. (You still might want watch for any signs of a vacuum leak.)
http://dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Geek.gif
Edited by: jbplock
DRBEAR 04-17-2004, 12:44 PM I have checked for fuel dribbling out of any of the fittings without the engine running and so far so good. I believe our application doesn't have significantly high enough vacuum to cause a leak, but will continue to monitor for a while. The connectors can be used on suction return lines on hydraulic systems, so I would believe they would handle the suction of our fuel pump ok.
Frank Blum 04-17-2004, 10:30 PM What would a suction return line be? Later! Frank
Burner 04-17-2004, 10:45 PM Frank, ya crack me up! That was funny and polite at the same time. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Approve.gif
Burner--------> http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif
DRBEAR 04-18-2004, 11:58 AM Maybe I wasn't clear http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Confused.gif ....What I meant was they could be used on the line between hydraulic pump and reservoir, which is a suction line.
Yes, that's what I meant,yea,sure it was.....http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif.
Edited by: DRBEAR
Frank Blum 04-18-2004, 06:51 PM I will buy that DRBEAR. I used to be a hydraulic trouble shooting expert. Now I am just a retired spurt. I am going to rant a little so don't anyone get up set. This is a free lesson. Most industrial hydraulic systems have a strainer in the tank on the suction line to the pump. My definition of a strainer is a screen in the 75 micron range. Very few will have a filter on the high pressure side of the pump but I have seen some lab tensile testers with them. All the systems will have a filter on the return line to the tank. Your set up looks good but is not a 100% by pass. When you open the valve you can still get a little through the filter especially at start up. I hope you never plug either filter. Later! Frank
DRBEAR 04-18-2004, 07:43 PM Yes, you are correct about it not being 100% bypass. I was going to put a valve on the filter head to block it, but thought that would be 2 more possible leak points that I didn't need. Opening the valve accomplishes what I needed which was fuel to the engine in a clogged up filter on the side of the road at night in the rain situation (bad luck kinda follows me so I try to head it off whenever possible http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif ).
I hope I never plug either filter, either...
Mitchagain 04-19-2004, 01:28 PM DRBEAR, When you replace the filter will the tank syphon thru the head and down your arm? Looks like it to me, but not sure.
Tube Tool Max 04-19-2004, 01:51 PM Looks good. You should just put in two more valves, one inlet side and another outlet side of the head. This would additionally provide for a pretty clean filter change experience. I wish I'd done that (the two valves at in/out) when I installed my Racor. I'll be doing it at the next filter change. Maybe you should carry a spare filter too since you seam to be a friend of Mr. Murphy.
Frank Blum 04-19-2004, 01:55 PM Two valve is all that are needed. Later! Frank
DRBEAR 04-19-2004, 03:14 PM The tank can't siphon through the filter head..the inlet is within 1/2 inch from the bottom of the truck bed so the fuel level in the tank will always be lower than the fuel inlet on the filter head (unless the tank is filled up into the filler neck immediately before changing the filter). That's not to say some fuel won't dribble out, but not a lot. If you are fumble fingers like I am, you will actually spill more out of the filter than will run out of the head http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Embarrased.gif.
Tube Tool Max: I always carry at least one extra filter, except when I am travelling, then spare spares of everything. Murphy lives at my place http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/smileys/Big Smile.gif.
firelt 04-19-2004, 06:50 PM Tube Tool Max---THATS HOW I DID MINE ,NO FUEL SPILL AND WHEN CHANGING , FILL THE NEW FILTER WITH FUEL BEFORE INSTALL ,PUMP THE PRIMER ONCE OR TWICE AND YOUR OFF
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